I have a 302 in my 92 f-150 and I was reading about removing the air pump and replacing it with an air pump bracket (looks like a piece of metal with a pully on it since it has the serpentine belt). What will this effect if I remove it. I do not have cats anymore, but I think the air is getting into the exaust (correct me if i'm wrong) before the O2 sensor so will this effect my performance or gas milage? How many horse power does this thing drain?
thanks
Bryan

 

Bryan, At this point I think you can take out the air pump, but you'll have to plug the holes in the back of the heads. Yes, the air pump could be goofing your Oxygen sensors, but it depends. There's a diverter valve and if it is still working then you're ok so far. But if you do remove the air pump and the related pipes, you will have to plug those holes.

 

Okay, dumb question of the day! What happens if you dont plug the holes?

Stryder
:-X11

 

You will have one He11 of an exhaust leak you can't find if you didn't know the heads weren't plugged.

 

Does Anyone know how much horse power this thing takes to run?

 

i have a 93 with the cat hollowed out. the air from the air pump enters after the converter on my pickup, with the O2 sensor before the cat. I'm thinking with this stock setup, the air would not affect the sensor since it is after the sensor and cat. your setup could be different though.

 

yeah i was wrong the line does go into the exaust after the O2 sensor
Bryan

 

 

I've got an '88 F150 4.9L EFI that has been parked for around two years ( it wouldn't pass inspection and I didn't have the money to make it do so), now I'm trying to put it back on the road. Much to my dismay, I have discovered that the air pump is now locked up. A pipe wrench will turn it, but not without a great deal of effort. Up 'till now, I didn't even know that it had an air pump or what it was for. I need a cheap solution that won't have me spending more money in the long run on gas. Also, I've read in previous posts that the air pump helps with cold starts. I live in Maine this WILL be a factor. I would prefer to do without (fewer moving parts = fewer problems). Is it a good idea to remove the air pump and install a smaller belt, or install a free spining pully to replace it with, or is it feasable to repair the air pump, or do I just need to bite the bullet,pry open my wallet, and buy a new one.

 

Meandmyf150- The air pump only uses 1 or 2 hp. You would'nt notice much by disconnecting it on the street. If you were drag racing and were trying to shave a fraction of a second off your time slip, then it may do something.

jcaxe-If you have to meet emission inspections, I'd keep one on there. You may be able to find a good used one on Ebay or your local salvage yard.

 

Quick answer..Thank you.
Oddly enough, Maine doesn't check emissions. If you have body damage, they won't pass you. If you have a broken door handle, they won't pass you. I suppose they are more concerned with how you look driving down the road than they are with the enviornment.
This is strictly a work truck. If I can get by without, I will. Which would be better a free spining pully or a shorter belt. If a free spinner, is there an after market device that can be had? If a shorter belt, would you happen to know off-hand what size? Or do you know if it's feasable to pull the guts out of the current air pump and use the remains as a free spinner?

 

I know they make a smog pump eliminator for the Mustang 5.0. It's basically a bracket with a pulley attached to it, allowing you to use the stock belt. If it will fit your truck, I don't know. I probably cost the same as a reman smog pump. The cheapest way would be to kick your old one to the curb and run a shorter belt. I don't know what part number or what size belt to use, but this is how I would figure it out:
With your smog pump still attached and stock belt installed, use a string to trace the length of the belt, bypassing the smog pump, keep it tight. (use paper clips or tape or whatever to keep it in place) Mark the string where it meets the end where you started and this will give you a ballpark length of belt to start with. Make sure you count the number of ribs/grooves on the original belt. (usually 6 or 8) You may need to try a few belts to get the right one. I'd also use a pencil/pen to make a witness line on the tensioner body and pulley bracket (where it pivots) so when you have the new belt installed, and the marks are close, you know you'll have the proper tension on the belt.
One other thing to look out for, is to note how much the belt contacts the pulleys before and after the smog pump, or if it changes the direction of rotation of the next pulley. Since there's 360* in a circle and say the belt wraps around the next pulley 180* by eliminating the smog pump, it may only contact it 90* and cause it to slip due to less contact area. Just something to keep in mind.
Some pumps can be taken apart and the vanes removed then reassembled. (basically acts as an idler pulley) I don't know if your's is like that or if the bearings are seizing up.

 

Thanks Again,
I think I'll just run a short belt if possible, however, instead of using your string idea (which IS a good one) I think I can eliminate a step or two by using a sewing tape-measure (like the ones that come in travel sewing kits). The way the motor is set up, I should increase contact area on the remaining pulleys, if there aren't any brackets, etc. in the way. Otherwise, I'll be disassembeling the pump to create an idler pulley. If the bearings are shot, I suppose I can find replacement bearings in my "Grainger" cataloge. Thanks once more and have a good night.