how do you remove u joints
Junior User
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 99
Likes: 0
From: Manitoba
you can buy a tool like this one: Harbor Freight U-Joint Tool
It makes the job so much easier.
It makes the job so much easier.
Tuned
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 338
Likes: 1
From: Barbourville Ky
I read in another post where you asked if you removed the bolts or just used needle nose pliers.remove the bolts where the driveline bolts to the rear end.this will let you get the shaft out where you can work on it.If you've never done this before ,,get some help.I have seen guys destroy a drive shaft trying to get the u-joint out.I generally use my shop press and push them out.
Junior User
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 99
Likes: 0
From: Manitoba
Oh my yes! You definitely need to remove the drive shaft from the truck. Also have to agree with 99wf that this can be a tricky procedure. If you're not sure, pay to have it done. It's not a super costly repair.
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 2,013
Likes: 6
From: Cajun Country
Replacing u-joints is a very simple job.A few tips;
1) Mark the pinion flange in relation to the driveshaft flange before removal.
2) Soak the bolts with a good penetrant before removal.
3) A (8" or bigger) c-clamp is very helpful.
4) Buy u-joints with grease zerks.
5) Stick with name brands; Dana/Spicer,Neapco
1) Mark the pinion flange in relation to the driveshaft flange before removal.
2) Soak the bolts with a good penetrant before removal.
3) A (8" or bigger) c-clamp is very helpful.
4) Buy u-joints with grease zerks.
5) Stick with name brands; Dana/Spicer,Neapco
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 29,941
Likes: 46
From: Drummonds, TN USA
FOR CHRISSAKES MARK THE SHAFT TO YOKE ALIGNMENT!
I know - it seems like a little thing, but the reason for it is to keep everything in balance. Lot's of tech articles lately are stressing that, possibly due to odd manufacture. If you have one that wears out quick, try rotating it 180 degrees, it may have been reversed.
I know - it seems like a little thing, but the reason for it is to keep everything in balance. Lot's of tech articles lately are stressing that, possibly due to odd manufacture. If you have one that wears out quick, try rotating it 180 degrees, it may have been reversed.
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 29,941
Likes: 46
From: Drummonds, TN USA
I've always been flippant.
Once U-JAYS are in place, it's a good idea to slam them with a mallet in all four directions to free them up - then grab the yoke and move them around by hand to see if they bind. If they bind - slam them again in that direction and re-check.
A well installed U-JAY rolls smoothly on all axis.
Be sure they are packed well with greese, and repack them if they have to be "ABUSED" to get them to roll right.
DON'T forget to install the grease nipple - if there IS one.
If a cup on a U-J doesn't go in - DO NOT force it. A needle bearing may be out of place - check it by taking it apart before forcing it. A common tell is that the joint is about a circlip distance away from going in and it binds there. This usually means a needle bearing is under the shaft - because the needle bearings are the same thickness as the circlip.
One of them fell out somehow...
Once U-JAYS are in place, it's a good idea to slam them with a mallet in all four directions to free them up - then grab the yoke and move them around by hand to see if they bind. If they bind - slam them again in that direction and re-check.
A well installed U-JAY rolls smoothly on all axis.
Be sure they are packed well with greese, and repack them if they have to be "ABUSED" to get them to roll right.
DON'T forget to install the grease nipple - if there IS one.
If a cup on a U-J doesn't go in - DO NOT force it. A needle bearing may be out of place - check it by taking it apart before forcing it. A common tell is that the joint is about a circlip distance away from going in and it binds there. This usually means a needle bearing is under the shaft - because the needle bearings are the same thickness as the circlip.
One of them fell out somehow...
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 29,941
Likes: 46
From: Drummonds, TN USA
Some of them are twelves, a six point gets a better grip on the flats.
A rounded bolt is a pain - use what works. Never ruin a fastener if you can avoid it.
You may find on newer machines that there is a mix of metric and standard. Go with the best fit - because if you don't you'll have a pain in the butt on your hands! A big problem with ford is the reluctance to go all the way metric. You never know what you'll find. Get a close fit, or DON'T CHANCE IT!
A six point WILL NOT WORK on a twelve point fastener
Rear yokes are generally 10 or 11 millimeter, unless an old axle is in place. Nine inches use standard (USA) sizes. 3/8 or 7/16 should fit.
If all else fails use a grinder and take out what is left with vice grips.
A rounded bolt is a pain - use what works. Never ruin a fastener if you can avoid it.
You may find on newer machines that there is a mix of metric and standard. Go with the best fit - because if you don't you'll have a pain in the butt on your hands! A big problem with ford is the reluctance to go all the way metric. You never know what you'll find. Get a close fit, or DON'T CHANCE IT!
A six point WILL NOT WORK on a twelve point fastener
Rear yokes are generally 10 or 11 millimeter, unless an old axle is in place. Nine inches use standard (USA) sizes. 3/8 or 7/16 should fit.
If all else fails use a grinder and take out what is left with vice grips.
Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
ya i was talking extraction,sorry i dont have a pic. they may not be ceramic exactly but there some knd of injected "stuff" i was told ceramic.they have pin holes in the yokes,where the factory injects it in. but u just use the keepers/snaprings when u put the new ones in.
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