Front driveshaft help
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Front driveshaft help
So I have a 75 hb. When I bought the pickup the front driveshaft wasn't on but had the ujoints on. I bought new u joints and new u bolts. After installing the u joints on the driveshaft, I put the driveshaft to the axle and transfer and quickly discovered an issue.
They joints fit correctly on the shaft but are too narrow for the output on the transfer case and the input on the axle.
Part #'s are: 369 for u joints from Napa
329-10 u bolts Napa
81004 u bolts autozone
The Napa u bolts fit perfect but the autozone u bolts are a hair too wide. Also my driveshaft is about 3/4" too short with the slip yoke extended all the way. All parts were looked up by vehicle info search. Any idea to what gives? Thanks
They joints fit correctly on the shaft but are too narrow for the output on the transfer case and the input on the axle.
Part #'s are: 369 for u joints from Napa
329-10 u bolts Napa
81004 u bolts autozone
The Napa u bolts fit perfect but the autozone u bolts are a hair too wide. Also my driveshaft is about 3/4" too short with the slip yoke extended all the way. All parts were looked up by vehicle info search. Any idea to what gives? Thanks
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I was thinking the same about the lift for the length issue. But what confuses me, is that all parts correspond to vehicle as far as what was found at the auto parts store, but the u joints don't match on the transfer case nor the axle. So it's hard to think its the wrong d/s.
I'm not sure on the lift. Everything underneath looks stock except for new bushings on the leaf springs and hangers and what looks like an aftermarket add-a-leaf in the rear.
Were there any special parts or part #'s for the highboys?
I'm not sure on the lift. Everything underneath looks stock except for new bushings on the leaf springs and hangers and what looks like an aftermarket add-a-leaf in the rear.
Were there any special parts or part #'s for the highboys?
Ford Parts Specialist
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From: Simi Valley, CA
So I have a 75 hb. When I bought the pickup the front driveshaft wasn't on but had the ujoints on. I bought new u joints and new u bolts. After installing the u joints on the driveshaft, I put the driveshaft to the axle and transfer and quickly discovered an issue.
They joints fit correctly on the shaft but are too narrow for the output on the transfer case and the input on the axle.
They joints fit correctly on the shaft but are too narrow for the output on the transfer case and the input on the axle.
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Joined: Feb 2007
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From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
Hang in there Salsa91 as soon as you answer ND's question, he will have the answer for you. And then this will make sense.
Are you also sure you have the stock yoke's on the transfer case and the axle?
Are you also sure you have the stock yoke's on the transfer case and the axle?
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4 speed manual, np205, Dana 44. I'm not 100% sure that yokes are original. I don't see why they would be swapped out. And also, that's another piece that seems too be stock because the Napa u bolts fit perfect in both yokes.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2015
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It sounds like you have 1310's and need 1350's, from Denny's Driveshafts,
What is the difference between 1310, 1330 and 1350 Series?
The "series" of a driveshaft or universal joint is determined by the actual dimensions of the u-joint. While the front and rear u-joint can be of two different sizes the shaft is only as strong as the smaller one. The 1310 series u-joint measures approximately 3 1/4 inches wide. The 1330 and 1350 both measure approximately 3 5/8 wide. The 1310 and 1330 series can have cap diameters of 1 1/16 and/or 1 1/8 inch or a combination of both sizes. The 1350 series has a cap diameter of 1 3/16 inch and the body and journals are bigger than the 1310 or 1330. Remember 1350 is almost never found in production car driveshafts.
What is the difference between 1310, 1330 and 1350 Series?
The "series" of a driveshaft or universal joint is determined by the actual dimensions of the u-joint. While the front and rear u-joint can be of two different sizes the shaft is only as strong as the smaller one. The 1310 series u-joint measures approximately 3 1/4 inches wide. The 1330 and 1350 both measure approximately 3 5/8 wide. The 1310 and 1330 series can have cap diameters of 1 1/16 and/or 1 1/8 inch or a combination of both sizes. The 1350 series has a cap diameter of 1 3/16 inch and the body and journals are bigger than the 1310 or 1330. Remember 1350 is almost never found in production car driveshafts.
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From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
In laymen terms you need a combo u joint that has different measurements in the width cap to cap on one side versus the other. But that will not address the too short issue, still sounds like you have the wrong d/s all together.
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Ford: C5TZ-4635-F ~ Spicer: 210392-X .. Combination U-joint / 2 cups are 1310's, 2 cups are 1330's / Obsolete ~ Available from auto parts stores.
F250 4WD (High Boy) 133" wheelbase with 4 M/T & Dana 44 ~ Applications: 1973/74 240/300/360 / 1975/76 300/360 / 1977 300/351M/400.
Here are the parts catalog specs for this u-joint, scroll down to the 7th part number: C5TZ-4635-F
F250 4WD (High Boy) 133" wheelbase with 4 M/T & Dana 44 ~ Applications: 1973/74 240/300/360 / 1975/76 300/360 / 1977 300/351M/400.
Here are the parts catalog specs for this u-joint, scroll down to the 7th part number: C5TZ-4635-F
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Ford: C5TZ-4635-F ~ Spicer: 210392-X .. Combination U-joint / 2 cups are 1310's, 2 cups are 1330's / Obsolete ~ Available from auto parts stores.
F250 4WD (High Boy) 133" wheelbase with 4 M/T & Dana 44 ~ Applications: 1973/74 240/300/360 / 1975/76 300/360 / 1977 300/351M/400.
Here are the parts catalog specs for this u-joint, scroll down to the 7th part number: C5TZ-4635-F
F250 4WD (High Boy) 133" wheelbase with 4 M/T & Dana 44 ~ Applications: 1973/74 240/300/360 / 1975/76 300/360 / 1977 300/351M/400.
Here are the parts catalog specs for this u-joint, scroll down to the 7th part number: C5TZ-4635-F
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Hypothetically speaking, if it's the right driveshaft with the correct u joints, and assuming it's too short due to a possible previous lift, I will have to lengthen the d/s. Would taking it to a shop outweigh the price and time of trying to lengthen it or build a new one myself?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2015
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With the info that NumberDummy provided, it seems like half my issue is fixed or at least pointed in the right direction. I agree with you on the d/s too short.
Hypothetically speaking, if it's the right driveshaft with the correct u joints, and assuming it's too short due to a possible previous lift, I will have to lengthen the d/s. Would taking it to a shop outweigh the price and time of trying to lengthen it or build a new one myself?
Hypothetically speaking, if it's the right driveshaft with the correct u joints, and assuming it's too short due to a possible previous lift, I will have to lengthen the d/s. Would taking it to a shop outweigh the price and time of trying to lengthen it or build a new one myself?