I've been told 3 different tolerance for this now, and not sure which to believe. .026-.038.....030-.050... .040-.080. It just seems like too much of a range there. I was trying to get five clutches in there but am having trouble getting the right tolerance. Is it better to have more clearance than the factory spec with the 5 clutches? Do i have to have a steel for every friction? IE....can i go pressure washer, F,S,F,S,F,S,F,S,F which gives me 5 frictions and 4 steels, or is it better for 5 frictions and 5 steels. Also does it matter if i start with a friction or steel? I've had so many people tell me different things that i'm getting really aggravated now. It's just been one thing after another. Just wanted to get this cleared up before i go and order some snap rings and/or cut my pressure plate down. thanks

 

my general rule is.008-.012 for every friction used.at the bottom of the drum you will start with a steel then alternate and end up with the pressure plate on top.if you need a little more clearance i machine the outer edge of the pressure plate enough to clean the snap ring and thats it.

 

thank you....now where exactly can i buy the correct selective snap ring for my drums? I have been hunting the net for the last 3 days with no luck. tried alto, they list them in their catalog but cant find where to order them at. tried emailing them with no response. i need a couple different thicknesses so i can play around with it until i get the correct tolerance.

 

the rings are the same as a E4OD forward drum ring. nand so is the other drums.try a trans shop or dealer.

 

Don't you mean start with a fibre plate?
It's the forward drum.
I have always used a clearance of .005 per fibre.

 

can't remember how I did it but we used the pressure plate from ??? can't remember... here is the link to a E4OD gear swap I did to my truck... I can't kill this box.
E4OD Gear Swap into a C6

 

I think we got 5 each in it...

 

You can trim both upper and lower pressure plates and get 5 fibres in the forward drum.
In some transmissions there is a wavy steel against the lower pressure plate followed by a steel then fibre.
The normal stack is PP/F/S/F/S/F/S/F/S/F/PP.
That gives 5 fibres and 4 steels.
HemiEater I think your pic shows 5 fibres and 4 steels.
It looks like you did a good job of the rebuild, nice and tidy.

 

DIRECT

377126S / .062: / MSRP $3.00 / ftepartsguy.com price each: $1.80

377127S / .076" / MSRP $2.50 / ftepartsguy $1.50

377128S / .090" / MSRP $3.00 / ftepartsguy: $1.80

377437S / .058" / MSRP $7.00 / ftepartsguy: $4.20

FORWARD

377444S / .090" / MSRP $17.00 / ftepartsguy: $10.20

386841S / .124" / MSRP $8.50 / ftepartsguy: $5.10

386842S21 / .130" / MSRP $11.00 / ftepartsguy: $6.60

NOTE: Reverse is non selective.

MSRP: Manufacturers (Ford) suggested retail price.

FTE sponsor: ftepartsguy.com > > Ed Olson @ Parr Ford, Bremerton WA.

 

thanks for the great responses. I was able to get 5 fibers and 5 steels in. Threw out the wave plate and had the lower (rounded) pressure plate then f,s,f,s,f,s,f,s,f,s followed by a bottom pressure plate (stepped plate) from the direct drum turned upside down. I kept the stock .076 snapring and ended up with .055 play in the end. I put the extra steel on the end to help with the clearance issue, without it i had way too much and would have had to get a different snap ring. This won't cause any problems will it? I couldn't get enough clearance using the regular thick pressure plate that's in the picture above (i tried taking out the extra steel and still had too much). Did the same thing with the direct and was able to get 4 steels and 4 fibers in....again with the top pp turned upside down. I think i am now ready to put it all back in the case and bolt it up to the truck

One more small question about the shift kit. Put the transgo kit in (the one with 3 different settings) kept the automatic shifting but with the firmest shifting possible (they called it the street/strip performance). All the directions were pretty straight forward except one. my valve body didn't have the 3-2 downshift check ball, but did have the reverse check ball. It said to take out the reverse check ball if your valve body had one (not all of them did i guess) and to put the 3-2 check ball back in along with the 2-3 up shift check ball. now mine didn't have this orignally in it so do i leave it out, or do i use the reverse check ball that i took out and put in its place? i left it out and bolted it back together, but just wanted to double check. thanks again, you guys has saved me a lot of headaches!!

 

[quote=77f250429;6031949]thanks for the great responses. I was able to get 5 fibers and 5 steels in. Threw out the wave plate and had the lower (rounded) pressure plate then f,s,f,s,f,s,f,s,f,s followed by a bottom pressure plate (stepped plate) from the direct drum turned upside down. quote]


not sure what you mean by wave plate... are you talking about the spring... if so with out it, it will slam into gear hard from park.. trust me I know.. I didn't use it in mine. it hammers into gear I think it helps cushion the engagement...

 

yeah, that's what i took out. I guess i could put it back in and take out a steel, but it's not really a big deal is it? How hard does it slam into gear? As long as its not going to put extra wear and stress on the tranny i can live with it i guess.

 

it slams hard... I wish I had used it, when I put mine in reverse it will chirp the tires, you realy should use it.. shakes the truck hard...

 

This part?

C6AZ-7D070-B .. Parking Pawl Return Spring

Ford calls it a spring, it's a curved plate with 8 notches in it.

 

i don't believe it's the parking pawl return spring. Just part of the anti-clunk design. It just looks like a thin "wavy" steel that went in the clutch pack right after the bottom pressure plate. I don't like how hemi-eater said it slams into gear really hard though. There is another one on the low/reverse clutch pack also, but i have room to leave that one in there since it was already a stock 5 fibre/steel pack.