Need the duration specs taken at .050 lift which is where meaningful lift begins? Cam specs can be confusing to decipher due to differences in manufacturers grind. I am not the end all authority on Ford SB cams but others will check in with an opinion on the cam after you get the .050 specs. The first cam just happens to have the exact same lift as an Edelbrock Performer. If the duration at .050 is also similar (204/214), it would be a pretty good choice. I suspect the second cam listed will be a little rowdy for a street truck without accompanying mods. (In my opinion) Bad gas mileage and less low end power.

Dewayne

 

Ride on, 'fenders. Once again, I fully agree. With a relatively stock engine, you want to cam it as low in the RPM range as possible. That's the only place where 98% of us really ever use it. But what fun are we? This poor guy is just going to end up with another BORING truck! Why stop with the quads and 5.88's? He oughtta be running laughing gas through a blower, too! Better have a Lenco trans. while he's at it. They're only about $5000. Oh, geez, wrenchhead! I hope you know we're kidding! Honestly, I believe you are on the right track with some realistic goals. You can tinker with some things, though. Like fatfenders said, a different cam is a wise choice. You're going to want a new one with a complete rebuild anyway. Stick with us and we'll point you where you want to go.

 

'preciate the highlight there, BlueOvalRage, I'm only going to begin to correct you here, because you trash talking me is not helping this poor guy here. I was 18 less than 2 years ago, and I buy all my parts with money that I earn doing whatever I can, even though I go to a military college that forbids employment, so you can take your "daddy's pocket book" trash, and well, you've heard The Rock on tv. I don't understand your need to call me out like this, if you have something to say here, there's a little icon that you can click on to send private messages, and to all that have to hear this, I apologize. I know what it's like to be 18 and broke, and I also know what it's like to quest for knowledge, so I read. Unlike you, I havn't had a chance to get x-years of experience, and so I do what I can to learn about automotive technology while persuing a degree in Civil and Environmental Engineering, in which I am currently a senior, and will graduate by age 21, so if I sound naiive, it's because I am. I'm sure you were 20 once, but I don't see any use in criticizing me, I'm just trying to learn as I go. And by the way, with everything I've read, everyone I've talked to, and all the advice I've gotten on this message board from very helpful, experienced people who I won't name, because this post is already too long (thanks everyone) I've been able to build a pretty wicked combo that not a single person that has seen it has had a bad word to say about, and yes, my gallery is very old and uninformed of my mods. So I wish to call a truce, and let's try to help this guy out.

Cadet Second Lieutenant John F. Daly III
South Carolina Corps of Cadets, The Citadel
The "economically efficient" TorqueKing

 

Doh! I forgot the oil pump. A HV pump is not necessarily a bad thing, but neither is stock. The last time I ran a HV pump, I got a little too snotty with the truck and wound it way out. The motor was built to take it, BUT the HV pump did just what it was supposed to and pumped lots of oil. Right up to the top end of the engine and kept it there. It starved the crank and I ended up spinning a bearing on #8. Since that little experience, I always run a stock pump with a stock pan. I've spun it back up that high since with the a stock pump (after stuffing in a new crank, of course), and had no trouble whatsoever. A HV pump is great with a deep pan or if you're SURE that you won't be pushing it up around 6,000 RPM. I, however, am a ##### and cannot drive like a normal person. Food for thought!

 

Oh, good grief, Torqueking! Why are you getting so offended? I am most certainly not "calling you out". You have every right to build your truck however you want too. That's the beautiful thing about this country. My point is this. Every time a guy on this board asks for a little engine related advice, the first thing somebody suggests he do is turn it into a street fighter. We've had this discussion before. The poor guy stated in plain English that he's building a STOCK engine!!!!! Why does he need head studs?!? You want 'em? Fine. You've got 'em. But when he's got to spread the green around the brakes and everything else, I think it's a hundred bucks better spent somewhere else. I've been building, racing, and blowing up engines for longer than I care to think about. I've detonated LOTS of parts for various reasons, but NEVER blown a head gasket due to using bolts. I've never blown a head gasket period. Prudence, my friend! That is all! I'm not going to get into this any farther. I agree that the goal here is to help the guy build his first engine. I don't think that a truce is necessary because I personally was never at war. Reread the post. I'm not the only one who questioned all the hi-po advice. My opinions have been challenged many times in this forum and I never have accused someone of trash talking me. We all learn through criticism and debate.


Joseph James Norfleet
general electrician and world-class knucklebuster
ex-PFC United States Army
"inability to adapt to a military lifestyle"
Sorry, guys. Can't STAND to be told I'm dirt all day!

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 27-May-02 AT 10:31 AM (EST)]WARNING- WAY OFF TOPIC AND LONG

Torque King

I was real surprised that Rage took the brunt of your last post. Let me start by saying congratulations on finishing your degree early. You are clearly intelligent and have a bright future. I really mean that. Now for the reason we are here. MANY of your posts bleed arrogance and revolve around your personal accomplishments. You seem to completely lose sight of the threads subject matter and it quickly turns into TK bravado. You are up on the current automotive trends and there are many threads where this discussion is welcome. This wasn't one of them. You aren't going to be there when this kid puts all this neat stuff on his engine and it won't run right because he blew his money on some big heads and then can't afford the rest of the stuff to make it work right.

With time, you will learn that much of the aftermarket stuff offers little real advantage. You will learn that the magazines are slaves to their advertisers. They have deep pockets and will find a way to "prove" the latest piece they are marketing is clearly superior to the old ways. At least on a dyno. I have learned that my 454 drag car could be spanked by a small block with far fewer bolt-ons because I couldn't afford any traction enhancements. Sure looked good on a computer program though. I have learned how to explain to my wife that we couldn't do anything fun this weekend because my commission check was small from making a mistake on somebodies car. My experience doesn't make me better than you but it qualifies me to make a contribution here.

I am impressed by your knowledge. I plan to stick around here. There will be days you teach me something. There will be days you should shut up and listen. Now get over to my 302 ignition question thread that nobody is ansering and explain to me why MSD theory is better. Convince me a Duraspark will just not cut it. You may very well teach me something. You better start by asking for more info on my application because because I did not post enough. Be prepared to be challenged by Mr. Rage if I don't really need an MSD for my application. And finally, lose the signature block. Just trust me on this one. Build credibility with content instead.

Regards,
Dewayne

 

wrenchhead:

Two biggest things I can stress from my experience: keep the engine (inside) very clean, this avoids spun rod bearings 3 days after you put the engine in. And pay attention to your parts combination matching RPM ranges (this was already mentioned above). My first engine rebuild was last summer, I have a 351W, 30 over rebuilt '75 bottom end, stock E7TE-PA heads, Performer intake, and a cam that sounds close to #2 of the 3 you mentioned, mine is a Crane Powermax 206/214 (or 204/216??) .456/.484. Driveability is excellent, strong smooth idle, engine is ready to go right off idle, perfect for daily driver, just mentioning this because it's fairly similar to what you are doing. If in doubt, go conservative on your parts.

Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

 

 

hi, i am 29 and have a 1991 F-150 4x4.I am going to rebuild it,i got water in the oil.I also have alot of blow back,i know the blow back is the rings.i'm not sure if i should bore it or not,what do yall think?This is my frist rebuild.It is going to cost a $140.00 for all the gaskets,rings,oil pump,and timing chain and gears.

 

I would add that new head bolts are a must. the old bolts have been heated up and cooled down and are probably fatigued in many ways and not offer a proper torque of the bolt. you dont need ARP but definatly new ones, which i am sure the machine shop can provide. good luck with your build and follow your haynes manual. be sure to oil everything and cover up the engine while on the stand when your not working on it.
have fun

 

I'm with rage on the Hv pumps. Not necessary and I'm seen a couple of cams wiped out from them. You could go high pressure pump though. I wouldn't bother studding the heads either. Just some new bolts would be fine.

 

thanks for the reply.i found out that i nees a new block.i busted number one clinder.i foound a new motor for $850.00 for a long block.