AOD Rebuild
Whatever you get, ask if factory upgrades are included.
IMO unless you want another hobby, buy a reman'd trans with a warranty.
Several diy trans rebuild threads here...not one with "I diy'd my trans rebuild and it works fantastic!"
The TV cable can be eliminated with a different valve body also.
If any changes were made you need to address that before having the transmission
rebuilt or changed out.
the AOD can be destoyed very fast if the TV control is not hooked up perfectly.
I'm only asking this to possibly help you out. Because I have been there already
and paid to have one rebuilt and learned the hard way avout the TV hook up.
Whatever you get, ask if factory upgrades are included.
IMO unless you want another hobby, buy a reman'd trans with a warranty.
Are you still running the stock 2-barrel Motorcraft carburetor? If you aren't, there is a very good chance the TV rod isn't set up correctly.
Drive your truck really slow and see when it shifts into Overdrive. If Overdrive comes in before 42 - 45 MPH, your TV pressure is set too low, and that slips the clutches more and wears the AOD out much faster.
You will lose a little mileage & power (mainly with a C6), but you will gain long-term durability.
An AOD can handle most towing duties, like a fishing boat to the lake. JUST MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT TOW IN OVERDRIVE! That is what hurts the AOD. The Ford manual clearly states to select the "D" gear (OVERDRIVE LOCKOUT) when you are towing. Which is basically like towing with a C6.
The Overdrive feature in an AOD transmission is a band, not a gear. The extremely high 0.67:1 overdrive ratio is great for gas mileage and cruising down the highway, but it is not suitable for hard and heavy towing duties.
For what you are going to do with your truck, a stock style rebuild should be fine. I would check with Ford for the rebuild kit first. Their kit will probably have all of the AOD updates which makes for a stronger transmission.
True, the 88 - 93 boxes are a bit stronger, but they will use a TV cable. The 1980 - 1986 carbureted versions used a TV rod. And that would have to be dealt with (modified). And there are PLENTY of these older AODs still on the road and shifting fine today. Unless you have a heavily modified engine and are going to be racing with it or towing very heavy loads, I wouldn't worry too much about getting a newer unit.
Old Hickory is absolutely correct. Make SURE the TV rod is connected and set correctly. Check your carburetor throttle linkage and look where the rod connects. You should see a brass bushing. If you see a plastic bushing, it is probably original to the truck and is well worn by now and needs replacing. If these break off, the TV rod falls off and your AOD will be toast in a few short miles. Ford replaced the plastic bushing with a brass bushing, which is much more durable.
Are you still running the stock 2-barrel Motorcraft carburetor? If you aren't, there is a very good chance the TV rod isn't set up correctly.
Drive your truck really slow and see when it shifts into Overdrive. If Overdrive comes in before 42 - 45 MPH, your TV pressure is set too low, and that slips the clutches more and wears the AOD out much faster.
I wouldn't go through the trouble of going backwards by going with a C6 transmission unless you are going to do a lot of extremely HEAVY towing.
An AOD can handle most towing duties, like a fishing boat to the lake. JUST MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT TOW IN OVERDRIVE! That is what hurts the AOD. The Ford manual clearly states to select the "D" gear (OVERDRIVE LOCKOUT) when you are towing. Which is basically like towing with a C6.
The Overdrive feature in an AOD transmission is a band, not a gear. The extremely high 0.67:1 overdrive ratio is great for gas mileage and cruising down the highway, but it is not suitable for hard and heavy towing duties.
What he said.........
There is a lot of info on the ‘net on how to rebuild an AOD. I also used the Bad Shoe rebuild video. It was very helpful.
I also highly recommend the ATSG repair manual and a Ford- Lip Seal Installer-Protector Kit. The lip seals for the pistons are difficult if not impossible to install without it.
Some sites:
AOD Transmission Parts Ford Transmission Parts RWD => rebuild kit and misc parts
http://www.wittrans.com/ => rebuild kit and misc parts
Transmission Part by Bulk Part => rebuild kit and misc parts
DACCO Transmission Parts | America's Largest Remanufacturer of Torque Converters => rebuilt torque converters
I used parts from two transmissions. The Reverse Clutch Return Spring (Belleville) and the snap ring that holds the center support in were broken in both transmissions. So look out for that.
I recommend taking the trans apart then ordering the parts you need after inspection.
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Hey Jeff, just ran across this thread. Wanted to let you know of another option. TCI make very heavy duty street transmissions. Im in the process of rebuilding my trans and wanted to give my .02. If you go to TCIauto.com or any place like Summit, or Jegs. You can find a rebuild kit to match your trans to one of there Trannys for a fraction of the cost. The rebuild kits (2) come out to like $450-475 this includes a new (not Rebuilt) Valve body with a shift kit already installed. Part# TCI Constant Pressure Valve Bodies 436020 and the TCI Master Racing Overhaul Kits 439100. The only stipulation to this is when you set the TV pressure I believe the PSI is higher. Call TCI and they will tell you the pressure needed.
In doing this you now own a $2100 transmission. You should look into this if you want a very strong transmission that can also handle towing









