I'm getting ready to rebuild the 302 in my '79 F-150. I'm only 18, and this is my first engine that I'm going to rebuild. I know the basics of rebuilding engines. I'm even having a local machine shop take care of the heads for me. Does anyone have any simple/advanced suggestions that will help me rebuild this motor better than new. (It's being rebuilt stock, with high quality parts)
Thanks,
WrenchHead

1979 F-150 Custom. 302 V-8 4-spd 2WD. 121,000 Miles

 

The heads are the main thing that can be concentrated on for more power. I guess if you have already spent money on them it's too late. If not, how much money are you spending and what is this versus
the cost of aftermarket heads? You could also get some 1976-down heads that have smaller chambers which would raise the compression ratio with a flat top piston.

 

yeah i have a few. get a Scat stroker crank to turn it into a 331 or 347. put in roller rockers/camshaft. some windsor jr heads are cheap and better than stock. new intake manifold. headers. these will add some extra cost but not too much. try to get the attention of Torqueking on this website or do a search for him. he has a rank 302 and seems to have done it up right. follow his lead.
cheers,
Rusty.

 

If you haven't spent money on the heads and can't afford aftermarket ones, go to a salvage yard and find a set of E7TE-PA heads, there probably easier to find than the pre '76 heads and have a combustion chamber of 60.6cc which will boost your compression.

 

Speaking of E7TE heads, wish I had known y'all like them before I sold them for $10. I had no use for them after I got my Windsor Jr's, so I just sold them to a machine shop, and I called around, and $10 was all I could get, so I dropped them off, bought lunch, and that was that. They were closed chamber heads, not bad except that the valve seals were bleeding like a Taliban soldier and they blew out a head gasket. My advice to our engine builder aspirant is to not hold back on quality of your parts. You will use 3 $10 parts before you blow just one $15 part, and then think about how cool it is to do the same job twice. Go with ARP head studs, and a Fel-Pro 1011-2 head gasket, and with any type of decent machine work, you'll have a solid seal there. Talk later, keep posting.

Cadet Second Lieutenant John F. Daly III
South Carolina Corps of Cadets, The Citadel
The TorqueKing

 

Thanks for the tips. I haven't had the heads redone yet. Infact, I haven't even pulled the motor out yet. The machine shop I'm taking it to is resurfacing them, port&polishing, new valves, seals and seats, and new springs. Price is close to $300.
I thought about doing the same job twice, that brings back some memories. It isn't very cool!!
Should the studs that bolt the heads to the motor be replaced? It's the kind of little/simple things that I need suggestions about that most people usually over look.
Thanks,
WrenchHead

1979 F-150 Custom. 302 V-8 4-spd 2WD. 121,000 Miles

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 24-May-02 AT 10:37 PM (EST)]Well, you've got the guys like above, where they have the money to spend. Plus they either ran into problems on a previous engine, for whatever reason, and now insist on studs and the like for head sealing. That's ok, but I think most of the time unnecessary except for racing use. If everything is in good shape, I have always reused head bolts and have never had any problems. I do agree with cleaning the threads on the bolts, and the threaded holes in the block, before putting it back together. If you have lots of simple procedure questions, I would get the book "How to rebuild your small block Ford". You can't go wrong with the book's advice.

 

There is a book called rebuilding Ford small block engines.You can get it at Autozone.It has a lot of good info.Some things I've learned the hard way.Put some thread compound on the head bolts so you will get an accurate torque reading,be sure and use pipe sealant on the bolts that go through the water jacket.When you assemble the engine use plastigauge to check your bearing clearances.Don't forget to check the crank endplay or thrust bearing clearance,a good manual like the above will tell you how.Make sure the block is CLEAN,especially the cylinder walls and the oil passages.Be carefull when installing the cam it is easy to nick the cam bearings.Do not use the rubber or cork end seals on the lower intake,put a good bead of silicone,especially at the corners where it meets the head.Before you start the engine,prime it with an electric drill on the oil pump drive shaft.You can rent a tool to do this from Autozone for free.

Good luck,
Billy

 

I don't have the money to spend, but I do it anyway. Seriously, I did use the cork end seals, even though I've heard that it usually works better without them, because I got the Fel-Pro Manifold set, and after I had used a Fel-Pro timing cover set, I was amazed at how well-engineered their sets are, and how well they work with the components that you have. So basically, I read the installation tips leaflet that is inside every kit, read it, and if the Fel-Pro engineers say to use it, I have faith. I can easily see why it makes sense not to use it, that way the weight of the manifold is used to further compress the critical seal to the heads, but it was a Fel-Pro blue stripe permatorque gasket. I work at AutoZone when I'm not at school, and I got my hands on one of Fel-Pro's counterman's training guide to selling gaskets, and after reading it, I was so impressed by their outlook as a businees, and in the science of engine sealing, that I insist on their products, and that's why I went ahead and used the end seals as per thier directions, I figure they've done more testing on that subject than anyone on earth, it is their job and all, so they would tell you if there was a better way to do it. BTW, I couldn't thread the studs that go into the water jackets with thread sealer, it made the fit too tight to engage, so I just put them in naked. I could have made them go in, by using a jam nut, but ARP says never to do that with thier studs. What have y'all found out happens as a result of putting naked studs into a water jacket? I imagine it just makes removal a real hassle, but I'd like to hear it from someone who's actually done it. Yeah, I may be overkilling with studs and the gasket, but that's just one thing that I need to count on to be right. The initial cost of studs is pretty severe, like $100 severe, but isn't it worth it to never wonder if you'll have to do it again, and never get that awful feeling of steam coming out your tailpipe since your head-to-block seal is bleeding? Remember, and ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure, so I figure I'm saving myself $1600 by using ARP studs. I'll let you know when I can tally up a reasonable expalanaition for how I'm going to actually save $1600, but the theory is nice. I agree, a good manual is critical, and never, never forget about our friends in Delaware, Ohio, who wait all night by the toll-free phone to give you tech advice anytime, anywhere in the USA. If you're ever really stumped, and need to talk live to a person, call 1-800-345-4545, it's Jeg's high performance. I can't tell you how many times they've bailed me out with critical info and tips during those late night hot rodding sessions. Good luck!

Cadet Second Lieutenant John F. Daly III
South Carolina Corps of Cadets, The Citadel
The TorqueKing

 

Couple of tips for a first time engine builder. 1. Cleanliness in the work area. 2. Err on the side of conservative. Don't build the engine with mismatched RPM range parts no matter how good the deal. Be careful who you listen too and verify hi-po parts advice for suitability for your intend purpose. That barely used cam or giant Holley double pumper you find for $30 that was intended for a sub 10 sec 1/4 miler isn't really a deal. (been there, done that, got a Crane Cams T-shirt) 3. Buying a manufactured matching cam-intake manifold package isn't a bad way to go for a first timer. 4. Find someone that knows what the heck they are doing when you assemble the lower end where mistakes = catastophe. 5. Read the already mentioned references and re-read as you do each step. 6. Take your time and good luck.

Dewayne

 

OK, Wrenchhead84, here are my thoughts. First of all, as you can see, we have two distinctly different types of posters here. We have seasoned, veteran mechanics and enthusiasts that have been doing this for years and years and we have some posters who, armed with a stack of magazine articles, aftermarket sales literature, and daddy's checkbook, proclaim their superior knowledge of all things automotive and take every possibility to trash the way Ford builds their engines and their trucks. To them, I say if you don't like the tin, drive somebody elses and leave those of us that do alone. You have to decide what you want your truck to do. If you want it to be strong, reliable, fun to drive, and not force you to put off college for ten years to pay for it, keep it "relatively" stock. You can do TONS of little inexpensive, free, or low-cost things to improve the performance and durability. The engineers at FoMoCo have been doing this for 100 years and the 302 enjoyed a 30 year run all by itself. I'm pretty sure that they know what they're doing. Get an overhaul manual, ask lots of questions here, and think carefully about the benefits of any high dollar parts before you plunk down the green. There is a lot of wisdom in what franklin2 and fatfenders have said. If, however, you have conned someone else into paying for what ever you want and you have no faith whatsoever in how your engine was built in the first place (remembering that they routinely go 150 - 200,000 miles between rebuilds bone stock), please feel free to run right out and drop $3000 for new heads and studs, a stroker crank, forged pistons, and whatever else your heart desires. You may lose your girlfriend because you can't even afford burgers at Wendy's anymore, but think about how much you'll b ehelping the economy! God bless America!

 

Rage

This guy is 18 years old and trying to learn how to build his first engine. He is being advised to build a stroker motor with big heads and fully studded block. For a truck he will probably want to drive to his first full time job and maybe take his girl on dates. I am laughing my A!@#$ off! Why not top it off with some dual quads and a 5.88 gear.

Dewayne L. Reding
Chief Warrant Officer
Howitzer and Truck Repair
US Army 22 Years
"Learned 22 years ago I don't know every damn thing"

 

Ha, well guys. I try to avoid taking my girlfriend out on dates with my own truck. Just for the record, I don't have a whole lot of money. I am investing in high quality parts, but I'm rebuilding the entire motor stock. Down the road, I might change to headers with dual exhaust. Also funds do have to go elsewhere on the truck:new rotors, shocks, brake pads&shoes, radiator, and some interior enhacing.
Which is better, standard oil pump, or high volume?
I'll be glad to hear any more tips.
Thanks,
WrenchHead

1979 F-150 Custom. 302 V-8 4-spd 2WD. 121,000 Miles

 

Wrenchhead

I like to use high volume pumps with a brand new pump driveshaft. Only time I avoid a high volume pump is when you have loose valve guides. The extra oil on the topside can aggravate a smoking motor. Also, I was as guilty as the guys I took a hack at for not reading your original post. I did not notice you already stated you were going stock. I would suggest you consider non-stock components in a couple areas. I recommend high quality moly rings for near instant break-in. Also consider an aftermarket camshaft. You can improve both mileage and torque with a mild cam upgrade. The stock cam is engineered to run acceptably in Alaskan winters and Arizona summers. You can improve on this compromise.

Dewayne

 

The engine kit I'm buying comes with a federal mogul OEM replacement cam, with an upgrade option for a Speed Pro 1500-4000 RPM 280/290 dur .448/.472 lift 112 lobe sep, or a Speed Pro 2000-4500 rpm 290/300 dur .472/.496 lift 112 lobe sep. Which would be the best cam to buy rebuilding the motor stock.
By the way, I am getting moly rings.
WrenchHead

1979 F-150 Custom. 302 V-8 4-spd 2WD. 121,000 Miles