Brake ? hows this est?
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Junior User
Joined: Aug 2005
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Brake ? hows this est?
Hey all. Today I went and bought a set of used tires for my 74. It's a Ranger XLT Ext. Cab, 390 2wd. They told me my front brakes were dangerously bad, this I don't doubt. I am wondering if this est. is way too high or about right, of course it varies some by regions. Labor and brakes $170, rotors x2 $245, calipers x2 $240, seals x2 $50, bearing pack $40, brake system flush $90. Total was $869 + tax.
I have never done brakes and although I want to, I want my truck up and running, not sitting in my driveway with brake parts scattered everywhere until I figure out what i'm doing. In your opinion is this est. about right with a fair profit for the shop or is it way inflated. I tried pricing the parts and it ranged to much lower to higher than my est.
Thanks for any opinions.
I have never done brakes and although I want to, I want my truck up and running, not sitting in my driveway with brake parts scattered everywhere until I figure out what i'm doing. In your opinion is this est. about right with a fair profit for the shop or is it way inflated. I tried pricing the parts and it ranged to much lower to higher than my est.
Thanks for any opinions.
Senior User
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 273
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From: Laurel, MT
"Dangerously Bad" huh? I can't tell you how many times I have heard someone tell me that a shop told that to them. You shouldn't need new calipers unless they are stuck or leaking, and so long as the rotors are within spec they can turn them for about $200 less than replacement. Hmm, seals and a bearing pack for ~$100 I'm in the wrong business! And a brake flush for $90...wow. Too much!
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Junior User
Joined: Aug 2005
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Thanks for replying and sorry about the double post. How hard of a job are brakes? Other than an a few alternators and tune ups the biggest thing i've done is swap out the fuel tank and sending unit. Is it pretty much basic tools?
Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2008
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just how bad are they? if the rotors arent grooved or cracked dont worry bout them. if the calipers arent froze or leaking then leave them alone too. I am a ford tech at one of ohios largest ford dealership and have seen a lot of techs try that stuff on our customers! makes me sick! If your rotors due have a lot of wear, you can take them to most napa stores and have them turn them for you. they only charge around 40 bucks last i knew. It is safe to say you wont need bearings, races, calipers, but may need new seals if you have to pull the bearings out to be able to turn the rotors if its a 2wheeler.
New User
Joined: Jan 2008
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Fluid: check for
1) No leaks what so ever.
2) Cleanliness (dirty or rusty)
3) evacuate (DIY)
Rotors:
Thickness is important to allow for adequate braking and the cooling of them.
There is a minimum thickness stamped right on the rotor. (ie:.086")
Have a look at your rotors yourself and tell us if they have mirror (really shiny) appearance.
Calipers: Leaking,seized, or won't retract properly
Rear brakes: shoe pad thickness and weak/fatigued return springs.
Drums: thickness of braking area
Retail Prices
Turing rotors- $15 each
Set of semi-metallic Pads: $12-$15
Set of shoes - $22-$26
Calipers (with core) -$12-$15 each
Wheel cylinders - $6-$10 each
Drums I/R - $40-$50 each
1) No leaks what so ever.
2) Cleanliness (dirty or rusty)
3) evacuate (DIY)
Rotors:
Thickness is important to allow for adequate braking and the cooling of them.
There is a minimum thickness stamped right on the rotor. (ie:.086")
Have a look at your rotors yourself and tell us if they have mirror (really shiny) appearance.
Calipers: Leaking,seized, or won't retract properly
Rear brakes: shoe pad thickness and weak/fatigued return springs.
Drums: thickness of braking area
Retail Prices
Turing rotors- $15 each
Set of semi-metallic Pads: $12-$15
Set of shoes - $22-$26
Calipers (with core) -$12-$15 each
Wheel cylinders - $6-$10 each
Drums I/R - $40-$50 each
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Junior User
Joined: Aug 2005
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Thanks to everyone for the replies. They said that there were deep grooves in the rotors, almost to the, I forgot the term they used. I'm just going to do it myself, might as well give it a try. The biggest thing that got me wondering about them is that when I asked about the back brakes they said they have to pull the axle to check. Aren't the back brakes drum and can't you pretty much see them and at least get an idea of the condition when the tire is pulled off?
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,354
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From: America
no you will need to pull the drum off also, or at least try to. if they are really bad, and they probably are, you will need to use the adjuster (start spraying PB blaster there now) to get the pads to close up because they will be in a groove in the drum.
if they are bad, id HIGHLY recomend a disk brake swap from blackbird customs. i did it on my f250 and it was almost too easy and the price was about the same as re-doing the drums.
if they are bad, id HIGHLY recomend a disk brake swap from blackbird customs. i did it on my f250 and it was almost too easy and the price was about the same as re-doing the drums.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 5,037
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From: Kasson, Minnesota
You have to get the drum off from the rear to look at your brakes. And no, brakes aren't to hard to do. I've never done them before and I just replaced everything on the rear of my F250 4x4 and will be starting the front here soon. I just do one side at a time so I have the other for reference and a Haynes Manual. The rears cost me just under $200 and that was for new rear pads, spring kit, self adjuster kit, wheel cylinders, the whole works. My truck had been sitting for quite a while so I replaced everything. You wouldn't have too and it would be much less for the rears. I figured, just as well learn sometime.
I had also thought about the disk swap for the rear,,,,now I wish I would have after I redid everything and it would have only been about $300 more for the kit Bradley mentioned. Oh well, maybe next time.
I had also thought about the disk swap for the rear,,,,now I wish I would have after I redid everything and it would have only been about $300 more for the kit Bradley mentioned. Oh well, maybe next time.
New User
Joined: Jan 2008
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I'd like to offer this as well.
http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us...rInfoPages.htm
We can answer any questions you have about this.
Supplies required:
1) 2 cans of Brakeclean and Penetrating fluid (not WD-40)
2) Qt of DOT 4 brake fluid
3) some brake specialty tools from your local Autozone or NAPA
4) Good set of flare nuts wrenches
5) Container to catch and dispose of Old Brake fluid
http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us...rInfoPages.htm
We can answer any questions you have about this.
Supplies required:
1) 2 cans of Brakeclean and Penetrating fluid (not WD-40)
2) Qt of DOT 4 brake fluid
3) some brake specialty tools from your local Autozone or NAPA
4) Good set of flare nuts wrenches
5) Container to catch and dispose of Old Brake fluid
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 739
Likes: 1
Ughhhhhhhhh....that price they quoted is giving me a headache.
If you need new rotors? Replace the wheel bearings at the same time. The bearings do not cost much from a good parts house, and the seal is pretty cheap. Be sure to use the RIGHT grease for the bearings (it's made to handle much more heat then normal chassis grease).
Get a Haynes manual and read up on the procedures. It's not that hard, just takes a bit of time and patience.
S-
If you need new rotors? Replace the wheel bearings at the same time. The bearings do not cost much from a good parts house, and the seal is pretty cheap. Be sure to use the RIGHT grease for the bearings (it's made to handle much more heat then normal chassis grease).
Get a Haynes manual and read up on the procedures. It's not that hard, just takes a bit of time and patience.
S-
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 273
Likes: 1
Hey all. Today I went and bought a set of used tires for my 74. It's a Ranger XLT Ext. Cab, 390 2wd. They told me my front brakes were dangerously bad, this I don't doubt. I am wondering if this est. is way too high or about right, of course it varies some by regions. Labor and brakes $170, rotors x2 $245, calipers x2 $240, seals x2 $50, bearing pack $40, brake system flush $90. Total was $869 + tax.
We would get about 426.38 with tax to do a job like that with a lifetime warrenty on the pads and labor and a 12month on the rest of the parts
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 273
Likes: 1
Thats what the company i work for would roughly get to do the job that was priced above thats ruff guessing prices on the parts but i should be pretty dang close and we do offer several differant pad grades I based this off of a semi mettalic pad (what i would use on my personal truck).
Cost of parts over the counter (anyones price) for the above through parts america.com
rotors - 79.96
pads - 26.46
calipers R&L -29.96
hoses R&L -30.96 (i added these to this list cause if i was changing the calipers id change the hose also)
brake hardware -10.88
grease seals -R&L 8.48
For a total of 186.70 without taxes
add 5.00 for a tub of good grease and 4.00 for a quart of brake fluid
and your still under 200 without taxes.
Anyone with a good mechanical skill should be able to do a basic front brake job and have good repeatable safe results as long as you follow a manual such as chiltons or have a good mechanic friend overlook ro teach you how to do it properly.