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I have a 2000 F-350/auto 7.3... Anyhow if there is any kind of a grade when in reverse or load on the engine (backing a trailer up) the engine bogs down to about 550rpm from 700 and then revs up to 850. And when in low 1 the same thing occurs... Any help would be great or suggestions. If you give the truck any fuel this problem isn't detected. Also in Drive it doesn't do it only low 1 or reverse. I have a Banks Trans Command on the truck. I'm not sure if the trans is talking to the truck to speed the engine up ahead of time, now it gets to the low rpm then revs up or what....
Mine will do that same thing, and it's a manual. I'm under the assumption it's the idle trying to stablize. The load is lowering the engine RPM's and the computer is adding fuel to keep it at idle which speeds you up, then stops adding fuel which slows you down.. yeah, it's weird. And it only does it when no throttle is used.
I have a 2000 F-350/auto 7.3... Anyhow if there is any kind of a grade when in reverse or load on the engine (backing a trailer up) the engine bogs down to about 550rpm from 700 and then revs up to 850. And when in low 1 the same thing occurs... Any help would be great or suggestions. If you give the truck any fuel this problem isn't detected. Also in Drive it doesn't do it only low 1 or reverse. I have a Banks Trans Command on the truck. I'm not sure if the trans is talking to the truck to speed the engine up ahead of time, now it gets to the low rpm then revs up or what....
Ok, here's what happened to mine. On my 97, it has the E4OD in it , and it would bog the engine down and sometimes kill it when shifting into reverse. It also did the same thing when shifting to manual 1st gear, wouldn't do it though when leaving it in drive. It only did this when warmed up, not when cold. Took it to a transmission shop and what was happening was, the truck was trying to go into both reverse and 1st gear at the same time. There were 2 possibilities they said. One was a selenoid pack was going bad, or, the tranny needs rebuilt. Well, guess which one it was. $3000.00 dollars later, it runs great. If given the choice between a reman or a rebuild, get a rebuild from a good tranny shop. I spent the money for an aftermarket torque converter that would last longer than the factory one, which was an additional $600.00. To have an E4OD rebuilt and done right will run over $2000.00, just keep that in mind. A lot of folks on this site rave about B.T.S. transmissions. You might want to check them out as another possibility, if you need to replace it.
Took it to a transmission shop and what was happening was, the truck was trying to go into both reverse and 1st gear at the same time. There were 2 possibilities they said. One was a selenoid pack was going bad, or, the tranny needs rebuilt.
No, that wasn't it. It is not possible for the trans to be engaging reverse and first at the same time.
The solenoids are not involved with 1st or reverse engagement, it is the manual valve. That's the valve that is connected to the shifter. When the valve is on one side of nuetral it can engage reverse. When it's on the other side it can engage drive. The solenoids can only affect the trans when the manual valve is on the drive side of nuetral. They can shift the trans to higher gears.
Even if it were possible to engage reverse and drive at the same time, and it is not, it would not drag the engine speed down. It would be exactly the same to the engine as being either in 1st or reverse and holding the truck stopped with the brake. When the truck is in gear and not moving the input shaft, which is the output of the torque converter, is held from turning. If there were a way to engage reverse and 1st at the same time it would hold the input shaft from turning.
The problem here is that the torque converter clutch is drifting on. That is causing drag on the engine. The reasons for this are:
Low trans fluid
Loose or leaking internal filter
Bad torque converter
Worn seals inside the trans
Worn pump
Mine will do that same thing, and it's a manual. I'm under the assumption it's the idle trying to stablize. The load is lowering the engine RPM's and the computer is adding fuel to keep it at idle which speeds you up, then stops adding fuel which slows you down.. yeah, it's weird. And it only does it when no throttle is used.
Mine doesn't... Hmmm. Mine will stay rock solid on RPM idling up a hill.
The problem with mine was worn seals inside the tranny, and the pump was worn. I guess I got my information crossed from the mechanics that fixed it. That was a year and a half ago.
Mine doesn't... Hmmm. Mine will stay rock solid on RPM idling up a hill.
I should rephrase that, I can make it happen, then it'll stabilize after a couple fluctuations... If I let the clutch out slowly, it just crawls along. It does act different depending on which tune I'm on at the time.
So I guess you're right afterall!