timing
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timing
dose any one have a 240 or a 300 that knows how to set the time on them i can not find a repair book any where if some one has any info please let me know any one near valdosta ga that wants a nice cold beer to help out lol
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is it carb or efi? what year? do you want to know the advance or initial timing set. is it a dura spark or points? granted most of these questions and answers are the same, it helps. or do you just want to know the firing order? any info would be helpful in knowing exactly what you need. for example your plug gap should be between 0.030 and 0.034 or on another note the firing order is 1,5,3,6,2,4. and god forbid you are running points, then you also need the correct point gap on top of that. shoot me a message or an email and we can work something out to get you where you need to be.
the gear head has spoken, he he he
the gear head has spoken, he he he
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its a carb dont know if i need advanced or initial just replaced a newer '80s distributer to a '69 year specific points system so i have done the correct timing steps i belive i took the # 1 spark plug off and set it to TDC then turned my distributer to a peak and then reatached everything and tried cranking her and seh wants to start but she just cranks and cranks i think the beiggest thing is i need extra hands does that sound like the right steps that what i can remember doing when i was a kid with my dad
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so you took out the 80s model dist and replaced with a 69 points system? or is it the other way around. if you installed the 80s distributor then it is a duraspark and you need to make sure that you have the control box that is mounted on the fender to fire that dist. if you dont have this part it will never work. on the other hand, if you are replacing with a points system then cheap insurance is always to replace the condenser, points, and rotor. then once that is all done then you have to set your proper point gap. these are all things to know and think about. let me know if this helps or if you need more info. also what year is the rig and what year and condition is the dist in? is the coil in good shape, and are your plugs and wires in good order. and on a last note, why in the hell did you change the thing in the first place?
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HAHA i changed it because i like things to be original and as one of my friend Charlie said we like being the biggest brain in a vehicle LOL .... But to the big issue its a brand new distributor kit came with every thing except a button but thats new too wires are all new plugs are all new coil is new... worked on it last night and i'll draw you a picture of my set up hopefully you have a good imagination... hot wire from celinoid to coil.. coil ground to fender distributor ground to coil ground just to tie it in that all it will reach.. so as far as i can tell all hooked up right ... absolutly no spark well sporadic at beast but only one maybe every once in a while.. thinking since i changed every thing to new original wondering if celinoid needs to be replaced let me know what you think and last thing do you know the points gap have spacer but was told i could use a match book tried that but maybe i should be more presice thanks
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recheck plug wires for order and coil. try to retard timing just a touch to see if it'll get you close. get a gap guage if you gotta run points.
Evil is right though- as usual.
i been runnin points in my Bronco since 96 and just now am goin back to elect. ignition
all w/o the nasty big sparkbox on the wheelwell.
There are lotsa good options to try- if you must stick w/points, the 69 t-bird model was what i used for -ignition wiring only tho.
If you try this and have trouble, remove the ballast resistor- i never needed it.
good luck.
Evil is right though- as usual.
i been runnin points in my Bronco since 96 and just now am goin back to elect. ignition
all w/o the nasty big sparkbox on the wheelwell.
There are lotsa good options to try- if you must stick w/points, the 69 t-bird model was what i used for -ignition wiring only tho.
If you try this and have trouble, remove the ballast resistor- i never needed it.
good luck.
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if you have the hot side of the coil tied to the solenoid, then you will only get a 12 volt source when you try to start the motor. when you back off the ignition to the run position the solenoid cuts off and stops working. you need to find a constant 12 volt source from the ignition switch. i had a similar problem and i actually had to mount a switch with a relay in my dash to operate my ignition. you shouldnt have to go that far if you can find a constant hot from the ignition. hope this helps.
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you said that the dist is out of a 69 right? if so the point gap should be 0.025 in.
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thanks for all yoiur help guys dose any in the south georgia area have a extra 67-72 wiring harnes laying around some where my truck has been red necked to hell though being a red neck myself i fel weird saying that
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