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That helps for the basic operation of the EGR and the cooler, but it doesn't give me the location of them on my engine or tell me if I can simply unplug it to test to see whether or not it will fix my problem.
Anyone?
The 6.0L Bible will show you the location. Also, the service manuals should show you. I will post you the links:
If you do unplug it, you need to unplug it w/ the truck off to make sure it has been commanded to go to the closed position. Even so, it could be stuck open or leaking - no way really tell except to pull it and look at it.
When you said it was somewhat related to the boost after a post said it wasn't, you may have unintentionally left folks w/ the thought that you were disagreeing w/ the person that posted. I assume that you realize that the boost SHOULD not be related to your coolant pressurization unless you are leaking. I assume you were only trying to describe the relationship YOU observed, but ..... since you stated you do not think you have a leak, then you probably should not have disagreed w/ the previous post (IMHO only). just my .02 ......
Now, that being said, I DO believe you are leaking at the head gaskets. Typically w/ an EGR cooler leaking you get coolant back flowing into the engine. This can be possibly seen by pulling the EGR valve.
I agree 100% that the boost should NOT be related to the coolant issue. I was just stating that this is when the problem arises.
With a head gasket leaking, there should be stram from the exhaust, and possibly coolant leaking into the chambers/cylinders.
This problem ONLY happens when the boost pressure reaches and exceeds the coolant cap rating.
With a head gasket leaking, there should be stram from the exhaust, and possibly coolant leaking into the chambers/cylinders.
This problem ONLY happens when the boost pressure reaches and exceeds the coolant cap rating.
I disagree, the typical head gasket failure mode on these engines is for the exhaust gasses to leak into the coolant, not the other way. You also have to realize that with these TTY (torque-to-yield) head bolts, they stretch and weaken progressively. They may not fail completely all of a sudden. It may or may not bleed down the pressure (ie a leak at 30 psi may not leak at 17 psi).
Oil coolers can clog. This can reduce coolant flow to the EGR cooler IIRC and cause flash boiling and over pressuring the coolant system. If you think there is an EGR cooler problem, then the current wisdom is to replace the oil cooler also.
Again - I would go for the combustion gas sensor as DSMHH suggested. A reasonably priced way to narrow down the problem source.
I have a similar issue with mine and instead of paying the dealer to GUESS I went on the net and got a Gas/Diesel Combustion Gas Test Kit for about $45. I tested and retested the cooling system under all conditions per the directions and more. Not a hint of exhaust gas in the coolant.
I just arrived back in Oregon after a 1200 mile trip from AZ pulling my 14k 5th wheel. I have had issues with the tea kettle whistle while towing hills since day one but this trip had puking coolant from the degas bottle when pulling up the Siskiyous. Took it in to the dealer today with a letter outlining the problem and referring to the TSB regarding coolant loss from the degas bottle. I'll post what they find.
Got it back this evening. Here is what the tech wrote..." 29857 Engine Oil Cooler. Verified concern. Followed TSB 08-3-7. Diagnosed Engine Oil Cooler is restricting coolant flow. R&R Engine Oil Cooler. Replaced Thermostat. Thermostat spring/disc seemed to no operate correctly on visual inspection. Retested, all checks good at this time. Was unable to tow with vehicle up steep grades to know for sure if there wqs any other problems.".....so....I guess I will need to hook-up my fiver and try a few mountains to see if it worked. At least they followed procedure and found a problem. Hope it was the right one!