Bad Fuel Pump???
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Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 36
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From: Wesley Chapel, FL (Tampa)
Bad Fuel Pump???
Hello all.... I think I have a bad fuel pump! I was driving down I-75 north of Tampa and lost power. The "wait to start" light came on & I managed to make it to the shoulder. When I turned it off and tried to restart the "Wait to Start" light and CEL light cycled back and forth a couple times while relays clicked. I turned it off & on again and just got the "Wait to Start" light and managed to get her going again.... for about 200 yards. This continued a couple more times until I managed to make it to a church parking lot. There she sits!<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com
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You guys helped me with a no start back in September and I learned a lot! I checked all the usual suspects; Oil - OK, HPOP - OK, CPS – tach moves & Fuel Filter.... filthy again! I cleaned it out, bought a new filter, replaced the little blue fuel hoses & cleaned the FPR screen. My heater element plate is flaking and showing signs of rust so I hit it with the wire wheel on the dremmel. I put everything back together and cranked & cranked & cranked.... no start.<o></o>
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Last week my "water in fuel" light came on so I put a jar under the hose and tried to drain the filter to see what the fuel looked like after my cleaning job. Nothing came out so I twisted open the filter lid and it was bone dry. Remember I'm in the church parking lot so I had to call a helper to come crank while I watched for fuel to flow into the bowl. Some day I learn how to rig a remote starter! After cranking for a combined 60 seconds (3 times a 20 seconds), only a dribble came into the bowl. I even pressed down on the middle of the standpipe while my helper was cranking, although I think this is only necessary for the fuel to return to the second stage of the fuel pump and doesn’t have anything to do with the unfiltered fuel entering the bowl.<o></o>
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After all the crap I keep getting in the filter I was wondering if I had an obstruction between the tank and pump. I pulled the blue hose on the driver’s side of the fuel pump, which as I understand is the supply line from the tank, and connected it to a hand operated jackrabbit pump. After a few turns of the handle I had a good stream of diesel fuel flowing onto the church parking lot. Just kidding, I had a catch bucket! I then reconnected it to the fuel pump and cranked it a few more times and checked the filter bowl.... still dry.<o></o>
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Sunstate International has the pump for $132 and they're open until 11 PM. Is there anything that I'm not thinking about before I go buy this?<o></o>
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I've read about a heated & bent 1 1/4 inch box end wrench to take off the pump. How much of a bend should this have? 20degree?<o></o>
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Thanks!<o></o>
<o></o>
fficeffice" /><o></o><o
></o>You guys helped me with a no start back in September and I learned a lot! I checked all the usual suspects; Oil - OK, HPOP - OK, CPS – tach moves & Fuel Filter.... filthy again! I cleaned it out, bought a new filter, replaced the little blue fuel hoses & cleaned the FPR screen. My heater element plate is flaking and showing signs of rust so I hit it with the wire wheel on the dremmel. I put everything back together and cranked & cranked & cranked.... no start.<o
></o><o
></o>Last week my "water in fuel" light came on so I put a jar under the hose and tried to drain the filter to see what the fuel looked like after my cleaning job. Nothing came out so I twisted open the filter lid and it was bone dry. Remember I'm in the church parking lot so I had to call a helper to come crank while I watched for fuel to flow into the bowl. Some day I learn how to rig a remote starter! After cranking for a combined 60 seconds (3 times a 20 seconds), only a dribble came into the bowl. I even pressed down on the middle of the standpipe while my helper was cranking, although I think this is only necessary for the fuel to return to the second stage of the fuel pump and doesn’t have anything to do with the unfiltered fuel entering the bowl.<o
></o><o
></o>After all the crap I keep getting in the filter I was wondering if I had an obstruction between the tank and pump. I pulled the blue hose on the driver’s side of the fuel pump, which as I understand is the supply line from the tank, and connected it to a hand operated jackrabbit pump. After a few turns of the handle I had a good stream of diesel fuel flowing onto the church parking lot. Just kidding, I had a catch bucket! I then reconnected it to the fuel pump and cranked it a few more times and checked the filter bowl.... still dry.<o
></o><o
></o>Sunstate International has the pump for $132 and they're open until 11 PM. Is there anything that I'm not thinking about before I go buy this?<o
></o><o
></o>I've read about a heated & bent 1 1/4 inch box end wrench to take off the pump. How much of a bend should this have? 20degree?<o
></o><o
></o>Thanks!<o
></o><o
></o>
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Joined: Oct 2004
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From: FL
-Robb
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 8,608
Likes: 13
From: Belair md
if you have fuel at the pump but nothign coming out of the pump then you are correct, it has died. pop the other line off the pump and crank it, see if the pump is putting out just to rule out a restirction in the line after the pump.
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 2,795
Likes: 1
From: Rogue River, OR
Well, you're in a church parking lot and you needed divine guidance and you got the next best thing 
Hopefully you don't have a Cali truck, there isn't a large flat, black disk on top of the pump is there? Good. Here's the deal on the 11/4 wrench. The head of the bolt is 6 pointed. Your box end wrench needs to have as many point as possible. You just might get lucky and get enough wrench to move that bolt.
Generally it's really not that tight and some have loosened it with a socket and ratchet. If you can adapt the socket down to the smallest ratchet (1/4") Would be great.
Once the bolts are out of the pump, all lines gone, bump the engine (Starter/by hand and as the cam lobe that the pump rides on comes to the top the pump will also rise. Pull the pump straight up and as soon as you can slip a finger beneath the pump and apply side pressure on the pumps push rod so that it doesn't drop.
Generally the push rod stays with the pump but I don't trust it. Putting it back together I always grease the plunger before inserting it back into the pump.
Hope all this helps.
Rog
Hopefully you don't have a Cali truck, there isn't a large flat, black disk on top of the pump is there? Good. Here's the deal on the 11/4 wrench. The head of the bolt is 6 pointed. Your box end wrench needs to have as many point as possible. You just might get lucky and get enough wrench to move that bolt.
Generally it's really not that tight and some have loosened it with a socket and ratchet. If you can adapt the socket down to the smallest ratchet (1/4") Would be great.
Once the bolts are out of the pump, all lines gone, bump the engine (Starter/by hand and as the cam lobe that the pump rides on comes to the top the pump will also rise. Pull the pump straight up and as soon as you can slip a finger beneath the pump and apply side pressure on the pumps push rod so that it doesn't drop.
Generally the push rod stays with the pump but I don't trust it. Putting it back together I always grease the plunger before inserting it back into the pump.
Hope all this helps.
Rog
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,195
Likes: 6
From: Medford Oregon
Got my fuel pump from "Checker / Schucks Auto" for about half the cost. $132.00 sounds a bit high, might want to call around to local auto store. Did not have to bend 1 1/4 wrench .. thought it was 1 1/8, anyway open end was enough to break it loose and re-tighten.
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Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 36
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From: Wesley Chapel, FL (Tampa)
Thanks for the heads up on the price, I found it at Advance/Discount for $88! I also read in a thread that you can use a crows foot on the bolt. My dad has a whole set of them that have sat in the drawer of his tool box for as long as I can remember. The only time I've ever used one before was to remove the stand pipe from the filter housing. I always wondered how & when you would use those wierd looking things.
I'll post an update after the pump is on.
Thanks!
I'll post an update after the pump is on.
Thanks!
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Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,195
Likes: 6
From: Medford Oregon
Also the banjo bolt has two (2) washers. I got 2 new ones when replacing my pump but you can probably use your old ones if you remove them and there is no damage. As far as I know you can only get them from Ford or International Dealer for a few bucks.
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Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
From: Wesley Chapel, FL (Tampa)
I managed to replace the fuel pump in just under 4 hours, including the trip to the hardware store to buy a 1 1/4 inch box end wrench. I couldn't get the crow's foot to work for me. The wrench did just fine and she started up right away. The new pump is pushing 60 psi. Should I still consider the FPR shim?
Neal ... this link will show a picture of a crow's foot. It's great for removing the standpipe in the filter canister, providing that you remember it's a ******* thread.
Crows foot on Flickr - Photo Sharing!
Just kidding! Here's the tool...
http://www.tvacusa.com/catalog/3060%...row%20Foot.JPG
Thanks again!
Neal ... this link will show a picture of a crow's foot. It's great for removing the standpipe in the filter canister, providing that you remember it's a ******* thread.
Crows foot on Flickr - Photo Sharing!
Just kidding! Here's the tool...
http://www.tvacusa.com/catalog/3060%...row%20Foot.JPG
Thanks again!
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