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I need some suggestions from all the pros on this board.
This is what I have:
1970 Bronco
302 - 3 spd (RAT)
D20 transfer case
D30 front end
I'd like some rebuild suggestions on the 302 for 90% street driving and 10% occasional mild off-road with 33" tires, NP435 tranny and a new D44 up front.
The block's already been cleaned up and bored 30 over and I've got some new flat-top pistons.
What type of carb and intake (2bbl or 4bbl) should I go with?
Should I stay stock on the cam?
Should I keep the stock heads and have them ported & polished or go with aftermarket heads?
Etc, Etc.
I'd like to hear about other's setups and experiences.
I just want a solid motor that won't overheat or pre-detonate and has a nice growl to it with plenty of power.
I get busted on a lot because I like aftermarket heads a bunch-probably too much, but here goes with my list of goodies, I never go off road, but check out the Torque output, I think you'll agree that it would right at home moving mud:
Windsor Jr Heads (180cc intake runners, 1.94/1.60 valves)
Comp Xtreme Energy 250 H cam (210/218 @ .050" lift, .463/.470)
Weiand Action-Plus, dual plane aluminum intake
Edelbrock 1406, 600 cfm carb, vacuum secondaries, atop a 1" 4-hole spacer
Flowtech Headers, full length, small tube primaries, 3" collector
2.5" exhaust, DynoMax high-flow cats, unhushed, 24" x 3" tips
Crane Energizer 1.6 ratio aluminum roller rockers
Comp Magnum heat-treated pushrods
Crane Blazer double-roller timing set
MSD 6A ignition, Blaster II coil
MSD Pro-Billet distributor, w/vacuum advance
Motorsport 9mm wires
14" x 3" K&N air filter, w/precharger
Permacool 16" electric fan, w/adjustable electric thermostat and relay
4-row copper/brass radiator (will not exceed 160 degrees-no exceptions)
Dyno 2000 reports: 378 ft*lbs @ 3500 RPM, 330 HP @ 5500 RPM
but the best thing is: 365 ft*lbs @ 2000 RPM, tell me that ain't mud-slingin' TORQUE!
havn't strapped it to a chassis dyno yet, but I will soon.
'77 F100, 302 (the aftermarket Prodigy), C4
Cadet Second Lieutenant John F. Daly III
South Carolina Corps of Cadets, The Citadel
The TorqueKing
A Scat 3.25" stroker crank runs $275; you can use 350V8 Chevy pistons if you shorten the skirts to clear the crank throws, take .060" off the crowns and open the rod pin bores to .927" from the stock .912". Aerohead Industries lists rebuilt 68cc, 124cc intake runner late 5.0L/5.8L heads with stainless 1.90"/1.60" valves and bronze guides for $375. I'd run a short duration (no more that 210-212 degrees @ .050")cam, a dual-plane intake and a 500cfm 4bbl.
One thing I'll add to my advice, if you're doing serious off-roading, I'd have your carb. worked to run on steep grades. When I drive on very steep hills (usually when I'm making my own parking spaces), the carb idles a little rough. Usually all you need is to get longer jets, so they extend farther into the fuel bowl in order to suck fuel in most any position
The '86 block is much better than mine, you have a roller cam. Your part number for the best cam for you is Comp's XE 258 HR, it's got an amazing power band from 1000-5800 RPM. if you use the heads I have, and that cam, you'd have around 422 ft*lbs of torque, naturally aspirated. You have EFI, so you'll probably get the same HP, just becuase carbs rule in the high RPM ranges, but that torque beats mine!
'77 F100, 302 (the aftermarket Prodigy), C4
Cadet Second Lieutenant John F. Daly III
South Carolina Corps of Cadets, The Citadel
The TorqueKing
Not sure about the roller cam.My 90 Bronco is non roller.I thought the trucks were the same.Not sure what year they went to roller blocks.Somebody here should know for sure.
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