DriveLine Issues?
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,065
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From: Oshkosh Wisconsin
Got some pictures to load up:
Here is the picture of the slip-yoke that i was more worried about. Notice the dark rust (pre-lift) to the new rust (after being lifted) Is this something to worry about? I do have vibrations but not horrible.
Here is the picture of the slip-yoke that i was more worried about. Notice the dark rust (pre-lift) to the new rust (after being lifted) Is this something to worry about? I do have vibrations but not horrible.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2006
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still not crazy about that pinion angle. Moving the pinion up would eliminate that angle, and might just help you with those vibrations (even though not horrible, any vibration is a bad vibration) and what appear to be stacked blocks are not the best solution.
I have asked before, but are the new blocks tappered, and are they installed the right way?
Tappered blocks are designed to adjust for pinion angle.
That pinion looks like it is pretty flat, and the upper, and lower joints are working at different angles.
This needs to be adjusted first. Fix the pinion angle, and I would bet that you will push that slip yoke back into the t-case about 1 inch, and the vibes will go away.
I have asked before, but are the new blocks tappered, and are they installed the right way?
Tappered blocks are designed to adjust for pinion angle.
That pinion looks like it is pretty flat, and the upper, and lower joints are working at different angles.
This needs to be adjusted first. Fix the pinion angle, and I would bet that you will push that slip yoke back into the t-case about 1 inch, and the vibes will go away.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 8,542
Likes: 5
From: Louisiana
The pinion angle isn't terrible, but like 75F350 said, it could be addresed.
You can put shims in the leafs to adjust it, but You would probably still need a longer driveshaft.
IF I were you, I'd go to a junkyard and pull an driveshaft with the same size u joints and bring that to a shop that can shorten it for you.
It cost MUCH less to shorten a shaft than it does to lengthn one.
Then you will want to get it balanced (if you ever drive it on the road), something like that would run about $100 from my local shop if you brought him a longer shaft.
IF you bring him the short shaft, then it'd cost about $130 for parts, $50 labor to lengthen, and $50 to balance.
So $230.
Much cheaper to get a longer shaft and put new u joints, which your current shaft might need anyway.
How's the front driveshaft look?
Seems like it'd have a pretty good angle on it too.
You can put shims in the leafs to adjust it, but You would probably still need a longer driveshaft.
IF I were you, I'd go to a junkyard and pull an driveshaft with the same size u joints and bring that to a shop that can shorten it for you.
It cost MUCH less to shorten a shaft than it does to lengthn one.
Then you will want to get it balanced (if you ever drive it on the road), something like that would run about $100 from my local shop if you brought him a longer shaft.
IF you bring him the short shaft, then it'd cost about $130 for parts, $50 labor to lengthen, and $50 to balance.
So $230.
Much cheaper to get a longer shaft and put new u joints, which your current shaft might need anyway.
How's the front driveshaft look?
Seems like it'd have a pretty good angle on it too.
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2005
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From: Oshkosh Wisconsin
The front is actually pretty good yet, I just worry about the clearance between the tansfercase skid plate and the drive shaft. But How do i know how long of a drive shaft I would need? Can a shop measure it for me? Would like a ext cab shrt box drive shaft work? or somethin longer?
just another Rockwell looser
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 4,042
Likes: 0
From: Cocoa, FL
leave that b*tch the way it is......its fine....
with ujoints youre not supposed to have the pinion pointing toward the tcase.......
with ujoints youre not supposed to have the pinion pointing toward the tcase.......
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 8,147
Likes: 1
From: Joppa, Maryland
Right, I didn't even notice there wasn't a CV. With just u joints you want the case and the pinion to be parallel to each other.
If there was a CV you'd want the pinion to point directly at the tcase output (or just below so its straight under load). Check out the diagrams over on the right side of this link..
Jeepwire.Com Presents: Setting Your Pinion Angle
If there was a CV you'd want the pinion to point directly at the tcase output (or just below so its straight under load). Check out the diagrams over on the right side of this link..
Jeepwire.Com Presents: Setting Your Pinion Angle
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 6,221
Likes: 6
From: Cow Town, CA
also the vibration might have something to do with something other then the rear drive shaft, i.e. stering parts not fully tight, wheel not ballenced right, the drive shaft might have had a weight fall off/nocked off...
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 6,221
Likes: 6
From: Cow Town, CA
ok so you guys always bad talk the BFG KOs but if the truck spends a lot of time on the road they work good. i have never had any problems with them, on sand snow mud rocks, and they have good tread life, for me they are the only tire i will put on my truck, that is how happy i am with them. but as a off road tire i am sure there are much better tires.
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 5,277
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From: St George, SC I-95
ok so you guys always bad talk the BFG KOs but if the truck spends a lot of time on the road they work good. i have never had any problems with them, on sand snow mud rocks, and they have good tread life, for me they are the only tire i will put on my truck, that is how happy i am with them. but as a off road tire i am sure there are much better tires.