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Just ran access this thread and these r the resistors. http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail?name=PPC75.0KXCT-ND
I am doin my mod right now.
yep found the place that was originally used. Thanks guys. Let me know how it goes. I am thinking about getting a spare IDM just in case. Cant have the money maker down to long.
This was a great thread. I'd like to know more about heat sinks. With this mod the idm is bound to be a lot hotter. Also, does this affect the valve cover gaskets and harnesses? Why is 140v the magic number? Why not 180v or 200v? I know I probably just answered my own question. But with some heavy-duty cables? Just a thought.
Last edited by LOWBOY1979; Aug 14, 2012 at 10:05 AM.
Reason: spelling
On my 4x4 selector switch panel... there is a 3 position switch.
Im not quite sure how this was accomplished... but in the middle pisition the truck runs in what i call stock mode...
If i flip the switch down... i get a brief spike in rpm and then a slightly "lopey" idle... immediate throttle response... and noticeable acceleration and power gains.
When i flip the switch up... i get a strong spike in the tach at idle and then it floats at a very "lopey grumble" at 1000 on the tach then after about 10 seconds it settles to about 750 and acts like it wants to "lift off"...
In that mode the truck is scary fast.
Have only noticed slightly elevated egt's in the switch up setting at WOT from stop to 70ish... peaks at about 1275* if i dont let of at around 75mph with no load.
This is with completely blown up pipes and a bad injector.
In the process of tearing the front end down to pull the motor...
All im lacking is starter, bell housing, and torque converter bolts ... the 4 engine mount bolts and the harness...
Curious to see how the switch performs with everything back to 100%.
Ill just bet i can break the new wrangler duratracs in the back loose!
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