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The replacement was a piece of cake. Briefly, I just placed a bench beneath the open door and built it up with moving blankets.
I ground off the top of the OEM pin w/a Dremal tool. then took a long slender drift and punched the OEM pin out. (The drift is holding the door)
I had a helper move the door away from the body mounted hinge, ya gotts kinda jocky it around. I then scribed around the DOOR MOUNTED hinge, removed the 2 12mm bolts and I had the inner part of the hinge in my hand.
Drive out the old bushings, put a taper on the leading edge of the new bushings and press/drive them into place. Make sure the pin slides through both bushings smoothly.
Replace the inner hinge onto the door exactly where it was before, slide the pin down through both parts of the hinge. You have to drive the pin into the hinge about 1/4" to seat it. Now slip the "E" clip into place after picking it up from the floor several times. and viola, Your done.
I don't think that was me. My fingers aren't stumpy, but I do have some swelling issues on occassion. Somedays the medication works better than others.
I bought that hinge pin last year and for what ever reason just couldn't find the time to put it in, but I found the time when my door sank so low that it would not shut so took a floor jack to hold the door a sawzall to cut the old pin ,skinny punch for old top bushing and in with the new,,,,,,,,,took me all of 15 minutes..............should have done that last year it feels good when your door actually closes...........
I just bought a 95 f-250 and the guy that had it before me must have jacked the door up with a floor jack and bent the bottom hinge, so after I replaced the $10 set of hinge pins, I had to bend the door back down to line it up correctly. Still is not perfect like I want it though.