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it would be better to turn your axle. is your front axle at a different angle than your rear? if it is then you keep breaking u-joints because your velocity is different from front to back. the more angle your u joints have the more the pinion is going to spin than your drive shaft, and if your back pinion is spinning less or more than your front it will put stress on the u joint causing it to break. hope this helps
WTF are you talking about? Pinion angle does not change driveshaft speed. They are breaking because A- too extreme of an angle in the U joints or B- too much tire/HP for the given drive line.
thanks STG i thought i was goin crazy trying to figure that one out. i sat here for a good half hour trying to figure out if he was talking about a binding joint or if the speed was changing with the angle. nice to know im not completely crazy.....
or maybe i am from actually spending a half hour trying to figure it out.
Sorry I missed all your replies. We watch hockey in my house on Sat. night. The truck is a 79 f-250 ,6" Skyjacker,39.5 TSL's mild 460,the d44 is welded,and a c6.I think I know what turning the c's means but more info is always welcome.
Upgrade your 1310 driveline to 1350 or maybe 1410. 6" isnt going to warrant the time money and effort of cutting and turning the Cs. If youve upgraded the shafts/ ujoints that moves the weak link in your setup to the joint at the T case. Its still amazing the welded 44 and 39.5 tires arent nuke'in shafts.
I read that, and read that and I do not understand.
I was commenting on the statement that you made regarding the relocation of just the center section (diff). Turning just the diff itself is tough to do with the OP's axle. I believe that the OP has a 79 truck, and that has a spring perch that is cast into the diff. Rotating the center section will no longer allow the spring perch to line up and mate with the spring.
A later axle with two spring perches on the tubes will allow a modification to the center section all day long, but is much more difficult to the axles with a cast perch. Unlike later axles, in this case the front is easier to turn the "C's" if the axle has a cast driver side spring perch.
I have seen some chevy guys perform this by welding a wedge on the perch, but I am thinking that is far too much work. Thats all.
ok....when you "turn the c's" you are just pressing off the c's and rotating the diff and the axle tubes to get the desired diff angle......if he turns the c's or does it at the diff he will have to do something to the spring perches regardless,.......turning the c's he will have to do somthing about both perches.....turning the diff he will only need to modify the one built into the diff b/c the axle tubes dont rotate with the diff like it would when you turn the c's.......
Thanks for the info guys.STG I've already bought a new 1310 shaft. The local shop,with a good rep, seems un willing to do a custom piece. If this one grenades I'll have to find another shop. Probably should have done more research before Ilaid down the cash.
You can buy all the 1310 d-shafts you want and it wont fix the problem. A 1350 or 1410 shaft isnt exactly custom one off experimental stuff. Buy a 1350 yoke for your D44 and a 1350 yoke for your 205 and take some measurements from your current driveshaft to the "good rep local shop" and have them make it.
If not...
Give Jesse at High Angle driveline a call and he'll make that complex "custom" shaft with his morning coffee.
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