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Old Oct 18, 2002 | 01:30 PM
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Post 351 Timing

Yes. i was wondering if anyone could tell me the best timing for a 351 Winsor. I have a 351 H.O. The manufacter's recommended timing is 10 degrees at 800 Rpm. But i was wondering what the best timing would be to get as much power as possible but without having heating or reliablility problems. I know you could tweek the old chevies and get more power by being off the manufacter's mark. Is it possible with the Winsor. Where do i get the more power at? thanks.
 
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Old Oct 18, 2002 | 09:30 PM
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351 Timing

What year model,EFI or carb?


Billy
 
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Old Oct 20, 2002 | 11:26 AM
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Post 351 Timing

it is a 4barrol 600edelbrock on edelbrock performer intake. Had factory Holly on it. It is out of a 87 E150 van.
 
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Old Oct 21, 2002 | 01:11 PM
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351 Timing

Assuming everything else is adjusted properly, advance the timing until it pings and then back it off a bit. This will give you the optimum power but not optimum reliability.
 
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Old Oct 23, 2002 | 01:06 PM
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351 Timing

 
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Old Oct 23, 2002 | 04:10 PM
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351 Timing

Is it mechanical or vacuum advance?The 10 degres is the initial timing.What you need is also to set the total timing advance.Usually 30-36 degrees or whatever the engine will stand without pinging.If it's mechanical you can change the springs and advance weights to get more or less advance.

Billy
 
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Old Oct 24, 2002 | 01:58 PM
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351 Timing

I went 'round and 'round looking for timing info for my 351W and I always found the advice "Look for the sticker..." LOL.. well that ain't no help at all if it's a transplant and has been rebuilt...

This is what I did..

First... before making any changes.. make yourself a "zero" mark to return to if all goes to hell.. Clean the base of the distributor and the hole it slides into next to where the clamp down bolt is and mark a line with a sharpie across there onto the shaft.. take your time to be sure it's straight! Now you have an index point and this way as you adjust back and forth you can always return to where you started if need be.

Now... start by adjusting a fraction one way (maybe 1/8 inch or a little more).. Then...clamp it back down and drive the beastie.. see what's what... Just carry a half inch wrench with ya and stop in parking lots while out test cruising making adjustments here and there till you find the proper balance of good power and no ping or knock...

Personally, I love highway onramps and long uphill grades for testing like this.

When you are happy have a look at where you started (at your original mark) and see where you are now.. make a new index mark for future reference and clamp that sucker down tight so she stays put. (be careful.. I've seen them move while tightening so hold that distributor steady while tightening!

Hope this helps...

80 F250 Ranger 4X4 cab on 87 Chassis --
1984 351W - Mallory Uni-Lite, MSD wires, Offy intake, 600 Holley, K&N filter, Shorty headers - Dual Exhaust with twin Flowmaster 50's, C-6 trans, American Racing 767's with 33x12.5x16.5 sneakers--

Alpine stereo with 400W Jensen Amp and 2 x 300 Watt "boom boxes" behind seat - 2 x 180 watt Xplod's in the doors..

Still workin' on it!
 
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