Leaking valves?
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 432
Likes: 0
From: Germantown, MD
Leaking valves?
I have an '86 F150 with a 302 EFI with a bunch of miles on it. I broke my filler cap on the driver's side valve cover, so I replaced it with this filler cap that didn't have a breather hose like the old one, it basically just sealed the valve cover. The result was a blown valve cover gasket. I changed the valve cover gasket and installed a breather cap. This new cap has an element inside and a hole in the top to relieve excessive pressure... With the engine running, I can see and smell oily smoke coming out of the breather opening. Could the cause be a burnt exhaust valve, or a bad valve seal?
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 432
Likes: 0
From: Germantown, MD
The truck ultimately came from my dead Uncle. I got the truck in August of 2007, only about 8 months ago. The odometer reads 96,000 miles; however, thats as many digits as the odometer will display... I suppose that could mean 96,000, or 196,000, 296,000..........396,000. Who knows.
Should I do a compression test?
Should I do a compression test?
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 432
Likes: 0
From: Germantown, MD
Assuming the rings are worn, which is the most likely cause. How long do you think it would take for a home mechanic to pull the engine out of the truck? If I decide to do it, should I replace the pistons or just the rings? And should I get different pistons to increase the compression ratio?
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 432
Likes: 0
From: Germantown, MD
Maybe it would be easier to buy a short block and build it using the parts off the current motor and new parts where needed. That way I would always have another block, because I don't plan on ever getting rid of the truck. Maybe it would even be worth the extra money to get a remanufactured motor. Does anyone have any experience with reman motors?
Trending Topics
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,949
Likes: 6
From: Earth
Any short block or remanufactured engine you buy is only going to be as good as the machine work, parts, and labor that goes into it. You might call a couple of local auto shops you trust and ask them who they would recommend. As far as warranties go, you're probably safer buying from a Pep Boys or something you know will be around. eBay has some buyer's protection built in as well; I've seen a few engines being sold by folks with good feedback numbers.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Ford Trucks Coming to Mecum Indy 2026
Brett Foote
5 Best / 5 Worst Ford Truck Wheels of All Time
Joe Kucinski
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 4,907
Likes: 39
From: suburban atlanta
The PCV should be checked as Beans said. The Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve itself should be pulled out and checked to see that the internal parts still rattle around. If you put the wrong part on, you would just be seeing blowby that existed already, but had been handled by the system before. There may be no problem...
Clean air is drawn from the air cleaner, into one rocker arm, through the engine, and out through the PCV and then fed into the intake manifold to be burned. The crankcase vapors can be fed to a spacer mounted under the carburetor, or to the 'inside' of the air cleaner, directly leading into the carburetor or throttle body. If the PCV is plugged, you will get vapors and oil leaking out everywhere they can. If you have blowby, you will see vapors when the engine is idling.
Sometimes an engine will clear itself up of blowby if it has been sitting for a while, or not run frequently enough. Change the oil, drive it, maybe it will work itself out.
Re-mans are all over the map in quality. Nationwide brands are nice if you travel or will move while under warranty. Note, the warranty will NOT pay for installation if their short or long block fails in many cases. Local shops can do as well or better than the reman factories. Ask locally for recommended shops.
tom
Clean air is drawn from the air cleaner, into one rocker arm, through the engine, and out through the PCV and then fed into the intake manifold to be burned. The crankcase vapors can be fed to a spacer mounted under the carburetor, or to the 'inside' of the air cleaner, directly leading into the carburetor or throttle body. If the PCV is plugged, you will get vapors and oil leaking out everywhere they can. If you have blowby, you will see vapors when the engine is idling.
Sometimes an engine will clear itself up of blowby if it has been sitting for a while, or not run frequently enough. Change the oil, drive it, maybe it will work itself out.
Re-mans are all over the map in quality. Nationwide brands are nice if you travel or will move while under warranty. Note, the warranty will NOT pay for installation if their short or long block fails in many cases. Local shops can do as well or better than the reman factories. Ask locally for recommended shops.
tom
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 432
Likes: 0
From: Germantown, MD
The PCV should be checked as Beans said. The Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve itself should be pulled out and checked to see that the internal parts still rattle around. If you put the wrong part on, you would just be seeing blowby that existed already, but had been handled by the system before. There may be no problem...
Clean air is drawn from the air cleaner, into one rocker arm, through the engine, and out through the PCV and then fed into the intake manifold to be burned. The crankcase vapors can be fed to a spacer mounted under the carburetor, or to the 'inside' of the air cleaner, directly leading into the carburetor or throttle body. If the PCV is plugged, you will get vapors and oil leaking out everywhere they can. If you have blowby, you will see vapors when the engine is idling.
Sometimes an engine will clear itself up of blowby if it has been sitting for a while, or not run frequently enough. Change the oil, drive it, maybe it will work itself out.
Re-mans are all over the map in quality. Nationwide brands are nice if you travel or will move while under warranty. Note, the warranty will NOT pay for installation if their short or long block fails in many cases. Local shops can do as well or better than the reman factories. Ask locally for recommended shops.
tom
Clean air is drawn from the air cleaner, into one rocker arm, through the engine, and out through the PCV and then fed into the intake manifold to be burned. The crankcase vapors can be fed to a spacer mounted under the carburetor, or to the 'inside' of the air cleaner, directly leading into the carburetor or throttle body. If the PCV is plugged, you will get vapors and oil leaking out everywhere they can. If you have blowby, you will see vapors when the engine is idling.
Sometimes an engine will clear itself up of blowby if it has been sitting for a while, or not run frequently enough. Change the oil, drive it, maybe it will work itself out.
Re-mans are all over the map in quality. Nationwide brands are nice if you travel or will move while under warranty. Note, the warranty will NOT pay for installation if their short or long block fails in many cases. Local shops can do as well or better than the reman factories. Ask locally for recommended shops.
tom
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
benbuilder
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
3
Sep 24, 2012 05:47 PM
danzigs
Small Block V8 (221, 260, 289, 5.0/302, 5.8/351W)
1
Dec 22, 2010 04:05 AM
canadianfordman
Small Block V8 (221, 260, 289, 5.0/302, 5.8/351W)
2
Aug 16, 2002 07:16 PM