water heater question
Thread Starter
|
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 904
Likes: 0
From: PHOENIX
water heater question
It is in the garage, so I figured it was eligible for this forum.
My water heater has been dribbling out the pressure release valve for the last few weeks so today I decided to try the valve and see if opening and closing it would stop the dribble.
Now it pours out non stop.
I turned off the water supply valve to the heater and turned off the power to the heater because I had to go to work and didn't want to lose thousands of gallons of water.
The house is just over a year old so it is not an old heater.
I know the water pressure is high in the neighborhood because my neighbor installed a regulator on his main.
Now for the questions:
Are the pressure/heat relief valves on top of the heaters replaceable?
Is there a trick to closing it after testing it?
Is there an electric thermostat reset for the switch or something?
My water heater has been dribbling out the pressure release valve for the last few weeks so today I decided to try the valve and see if opening and closing it would stop the dribble.
Now it pours out non stop.
I turned off the water supply valve to the heater and turned off the power to the heater because I had to go to work and didn't want to lose thousands of gallons of water.
The house is just over a year old so it is not an old heater.
I know the water pressure is high in the neighborhood because my neighbor installed a regulator on his main.
Now for the questions:
Are the pressure/heat relief valves on top of the heaters replaceable?
Is there a trick to closing it after testing it?
Is there an electric thermostat reset for the switch or something?
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 40
From: EXTREME southwest CT
(1) Yes, they should be.
(2) there shouldn't be, unless you have a lot of corrosion build up in there
(3) For the switch? There should be a reset button under the removeable cover on the side of it.
(2) there shouldn't be, unless you have a lot of corrosion build up in there
(3) For the switch? There should be a reset button under the removeable cover on the side of it.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 208
Likes: 1
The T/P Relief valve is changeable. They just screw in. What pressure are you running? Get a pipe thread to hose thread adpter and screw a gauge on one of your outside hose bibbs. I doubt your pressure is to high. Those relief valves are usually rated at 165#. If you had this much pressure you would be blowing fixtures off the walls. Sometimes relief valves will weep. They are not that expensive and readily available at the big box stores. Just make sure you pipe the relief down to the floor, about 6" off the floor. Incase it pops, it's not blowing 212* water everyware.
Thread Starter
|
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 904
Likes: 0
From: PHOENIX
I guess mine was weeping.
I did a little research while at work and found out if they do start to dribble/weep, once you open it it won't shut do to crud.
So it will have to be replaced.
I will be taking a cold shower tomorrow morning and picking up a new valve on the way to work.
I did a little research while at work and found out if they do start to dribble/weep, once you open it it won't shut do to crud.
So it will have to be replaced.
I will be taking a cold shower tomorrow morning and picking up a new valve on the way to work.
Junior User
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 61
Likes: 0
From: Westminster, CO
I have read that you are supposed to open the valve once a year to make sure it is operating properly, yours is just over a year old so defective and replace. Another water heater maintenence recommended is a yearly sediment flush. Shut off cold water supply, open a hot water faucet nearby, then drain off a gallon or two of water. Then turn the cold water supply back on refilling tank and drain off another gallon or two of water to remove sediment. I did this to my mother in law's water heater which had not been done in years, her complaint was the water was not very hot. You have to heat through the sediment to heat the water. I removed enough white sediment to fill about three 12 ounce Cool Whip plastic bowls.
Scott
Scott
Trending Topics
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 963
Likes: 1
From: wichita kansas
If you wait too long you might end up I did and not be able to drain anything out of the tank. The first tank I ever changed we had the entire valve out of and tried to poke a coat hanger through it and still not a drop.
The tank I have now I haven't ever drained either but it is probably about to the end of its expected life. Another thing I saw on a show was to replace that anode rods (probably isn't correct spelling). They said that by replacing them every couple of years your tank will last a lot longer since they will corrode instead of the tank.
The tank I have now I haven't ever drained either but it is probably about to the end of its expected life. Another thing I saw on a show was to replace that anode rods (probably isn't correct spelling). They said that by replacing them every couple of years your tank will last a lot longer since they will corrode instead of the tank.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 6 Best Deals Available on New Fords & Lincolns Right Now
Brett Foote
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Fords at 2026 Carlisle Ford Nationals
Joe Kucinski
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Tuned
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 299
Likes: 2
From: Marryville, Tennessee
When I go to replace mine, I am going to go to a Tankless unit! Be much more cheaper on me as it's only the wife and I, no sense having to keep 90 gallons of hot water burning 24 hrs a day. Plus it will be direct hot water as soon as you turn on the hot water instead of waiting for hot water to warm up. Just my .02 cents.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 208
Likes: 1
Tank-less units may be the way to go. But,,,, Depending on your location and weather the electric needed to run a unit may make them cost prohibited. Some of those units require a lot of power. Could be costly just to have the power run to the unit. Just my 2 cents.
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,069
Likes: 1
My electric water heater is 29 years old and only replaced the thermostat. The elements,pressure valve are original. Know why? Water softener.
Ps I cut the anode rod off about 28 years ago because my wife is allergic to zinc.
Ps I cut the anode rod off about 28 years ago because my wife is allergic to zinc.
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,489
Likes: 45
From: Central NY
When I go to replace mine, I am going to go to a Tankless unit! Be much more cheaper on me as it's only the wife and I, no sense having to keep 90 gallons of hot water burning 24 hrs a day. Plus it will be direct hot water as soon as you turn on the hot water instead of waiting for hot water to warm up. Just my .02 cents.
ERGOMAX Heat Exchangers
Thread Starter
|
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 904
Likes: 0
From: PHOENIX
I don't have gas in my neighborhood so an electric heater is the only option.
I saw they do have electric tankless heaters but I think they require more than a standard 220 can support.
I saw they do have electric tankless heaters but I think they require more than a standard 220 can support.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 7,868
Likes: 9
From: Rhode Island
You can always go oil :evilgrin: