A level isn't accurate enough, you need to use a plumb bob. Also, looks like your spring bushings are in pretty sad shape, that would help tighten them up.

 

The ford factory bushing I don't think are replaceable I think they are formed into the spring which is why they last..Unless someone has other info..

 

just to make everybody happy I will use a plumb bob tonight when i get off of work, i will use a different color then blue for the measurements

As for geting new bushings in there to "tighten things up"

sounds like a heck of a plan, these bushings WERE new 5 months ago, if I need to put new bushings in my springs every 5 months I mine as well throw my truck away cause that is more then i can afford to get done.

I have new springs which I will be trying in there

Everybody who doubts the measurements: Test it yourself to see, in the mean time I will try to do what I can with a plub bob - but i have other plans for tonight too so if i get to it i will get to it... in the mean time - trust my measurements - SINCE in fact that is what another person got on 5 other trucks

kenny

 

I still think if you have good (quality) bushings that you shouldn't have an issue in 5 months.
My springs have been on for almost 4 yrs. My previous springs were on for 3 yrs. Neither one had an issue.


As for measurements, I don't dispute them since it doesn't effect me and I don't feel like measuring for an issue that I don't have

 

DC... Again, superlift springs do not allow for the use of any bushing style other then their own.

Superlift springs are supposedly one of the top manufacteres for leaf springs.

Superlift already sent me new spring packs to replace these.

Here is what the bushings on these springs look like, you tell me where to get these (high quality bushings - other then the ONLY ones avalible from superlift) You make it sound like I dont use quality equipment in my truck which cannot be farther from the truth, had i known i was going to have this issue i would have went with DR springs to begin with.


http://www.angelfire.com/fang/mercury/PIX/bush1.jpg

http://www.angelfire.com/fang/mercury/PIX/bush2.jpg

http://www.angelfire.com/fang/mercury/PIX/bush3.jpg

And another thing... I see people with issues all the time, just because my truck does not have the issue does not mean i am not interested.

If you dont want to measure it thats fine, Do not think for a second your truck is special just cause it does not make noise, it just means you have good bushings that take up the slack of the crap design.



as for all the unbelievers who thought my measrement technique was "wrong" or incorrect

well have i got news for you - your right

My measurements were off.

So today I used a LASER LEVEL (how can that be any less accurate then a dopey plum bob??) here are the results

Original results

FF= 38.5
FR = 36

BF = 43.5
BR=44.5

New results measured by somebody who has been measuring things for 40 years or so day in and day out. Using a laser level laser level that is factory calibrated. Basically I am saying I trust these measurements, if you dont, then fine, go measure yours and post your numbers.

New measurements:

FF = 39.75"
FR = 36.5"

BF = 44.5"
BR = 45"

So you can see my measurements were off on the back - but i dont care about the back, I care about the front!

The front measurements are now more drastic then when I took them - so my measurement scheme had some errror - in the closer to stright direction... the new measurements are more drastic!


Now if you want to argue with me that a laser level is not the proper way to do it - stick it in your ear cause I am not measuring it again. The springs are obviosuly cocked, who cares by how much - i mean really... they are cocked and I want to know why

If you want to check your truck, go for it I could not find my plumb bob, and it was too windy today to hang a pencil on a string - but if you measure yours use a plum bob, since it is one of the oldest and true measuring devices this world over, until the wind blows, or the string gets hung up, then it becomes a chunk of metal on a string



MY QUESTION IS - WHY WOULD LEAF SPRING MOUNTS BE SET UP LIKE THIS?!?!?!????


Sorry for my bitterness, I am only looking for one simple response, I do not need lessons on how to measure things. My measurement shows the leaf springs are cocked, my friends measurements show the leaf springs are cocked. My fathers measurement on my truck shows the leaf springs are cocked. By how much does not matter to me, it is obviously enough to beat up on regular bushings.

Thank you, Ken

 

Who said Superlift has some of the best springs?

They weren't that great when they were made in Canada.
Now, they are made in India they may ride better due to the new design but I think I've heard of more issues with springs breaking than before.



As for the mounts......the distance is different but what about their orientation??
Meaning are they in line with each other (i.e. hangers and shackles pointing straight at each other) or are the hanger and shackle both pointing straight forward and with the distance not being the same they are tweaking the bushings?

 

Thats a more difficult test but may be worth it for me to try to see...

I suppose I can measure the edge of the front mount of the front left spring, then measure the other edge and extend them out and see if it is || with the truck and the rear mount.

this will be 8 measurement points IF i only do the front springs.

I would think though, if the mounts were cocked to match the way the truck is made, then the bushings would not be getting beat to snot.

When I purchased my lift the big 3 were DR, superlift and BDS - skyjacker not far behind...

at least thats what i was reading back then

kenny

 

Right, if the mounts were angled to match the design the bushings aren't getting tweaked by a "design flaw".


Because you posted a 3.25" difference in the front springs....if the hanger and shackle were facing directly straight (making it a 1.625" offset on each side) I would think it would be hard to get the springs in and the bolts through for install.

 

i will have to measure that next DC...

ford is working on giving me an answer too.

Superlift did not know about the offset, however they said half way through making the springs that i have under my truck they changed bushing design for the better.

They used to get complaints on my bushings (the ones in my truck now) and they went to the new type and never got one complaint yet

kenny

 

I'm making a couple of assumptions here, so bear with me....

Assuming the differences in width are equal to both sides, there's a little-known something going on here. Chevy did this with their "sierra body" ('88-on) trucks on the rear axles (I used to own one, thus how I know), as sort of a "poor man's panhard rod". (panhard rod = track bar)

The purpose is to keep the axle located a little better, since the trapezoid formed by the spring mounts doesn't let the springs "flex" sideways in the same direction. If the mounts were in a square (or a rectangle, in this case) the sideways movement by the axle would quickly reach uncontrollable amounts and you'd have a LOT of side-to-side wobbling going on.

The "extra space" in the shackles is there so that when the leaf spring flexes, it won't bind in the shackle. This is hard to see when the whole axle moves vertically (and vertically ONLY). Take that truck out somewhere and put one front wheel (or rear) up on a big rock, to get the maximum "articulation" (or flex, depending on your viewpoint) and then take a look at the spring in the shackle. The leaf spring has to rotate around the bolt in the shackle in order to stay in one piece. If there weren't the extra room in the shackle for the now "crooked" spring, it would bind, or possibly break either the bolt or the shackle.

-blaine

 

I think Frankenbiker nailed it. It's curious though that the front of the front is wider, but the rear of the rear is wider. Must have to do with directional stability or something. Plus, the front is subjected to significantly higher lateral forces when turning a corner, so the larger difference could be to help counter that.

The 1/2" difference in the new rear measurements in negligible, it could be that the engineers were targeting zero difference in the rear, and what you are seeing is manufacturing and parts tolerance.

FWIW, I think a plumb bob (on a calm day) is probably still more accurate than a laser level, so I guess I'll stick it in my ear. If you come on here asking technical questions, don't be surprised if people question your methods. I wouldn't want it any other way.

 

frankenbiker did bring up a good point...

The point i have is the difference in my measurements IS there and it is there on 6 trucks all together, others may even measure theres...

if the results are the same or similiar across the board, why bother with questioning methods..

the point i am trying to make with the plumb bob is that i was under the truck twice now and did measurements A plumb bob is not going to get me any different results.

Should i have used a plumb bob to start with - maybe so, but come on... a stright level, a laser level and a plumb bob will all show that the springs are crooked, all by a substantial amount (in the front at least)

do you guys REALLY need to know exactly how much?

I guess ill get the plumb bob out, but please realize my kids chalk is like 1/4" wide so the error in that alone may be a big deal for this place

you have to realize I am doing these measurements in a asphault driveway, its not a perfect system its a rough estimate, do i care if I am 1/2" one way or the other... no not really cause the measurement is already 3" or so total.

the fact is - it is not stright.

I do take my truck offroad quite a bit, next time I have it on a "rock" I will check the leafs spring locations.

This all came from a "clunk" i have been fighting for about a year now, I tried new leaf spring bushings to no avail.

And my bushings already look shot again after 5 months

i am going to ask the dodge guys to check theres next.

Thanks all - keep the comments coming, even it it is bad mouthing my measurement method. If you still dont beleive my measurements do us all a favor and measure yours.

Realize by complaining about my measurement methods, we are moving nowhere.

We know the spring is not || front to back, so who cares exactly how much,

Should I call up the lab of scientific measurements over to my house, pay them a few grand so we can get an exact measurement on my truck using the natinal standard of graduated measurements?

I really do not see that as being necessary, but if you all want me to dump more time and money getting a measurement, if you think knowing the exact amount will help me then sure, ill have a lab come and measure my truck. Ill send you the bill when they are done too



Lets cut the crap and get to the point... so far in this thread the only good contribution has been DC saying are the mount points in line (meaning the direction they are "aiming")

the next good post was frakenbiker... the rest of the post concentrated on my measurement technique which has nothing at all to do with the issue at hand here.

The springs are cocked because the mounting locations are not || lets move on and get to the next step please.

Thanks,

kenny

 

I like this post... however let me ask this...

if this was their way of making a poor mans trac bar - then what is the purpose of the trac bar that is already on my truck?

The trac bar keeps the axle centered under the chassis of the truck, with the trac bar disconnected I can swing the wheel left and right and actually move the cab of the truck over the axle pretty easily.

See what i dont get is why frod would do this IF they already have a trac bar in place?

thanks, Kenny

 

Maybe due to the size and weight of the truck they felt that the addition of the trac bar was needed?

 

This attitude, is this your idea of how to motivate people to help you?

A big part of solving a problem like this is accurate, repeatable measurements. Are the trucks all off by the same amount? How much of the difference is due to measurement errors, and how much is actual? How much is due to manufacturing tolerances? How much is due to your aftermarket lift? How can you compare a stock truck to a lifted truck, if you don't have accurate repeatable measurements?

A laser level is only as accurate as the factory schmoe that calibrated it, whereas a plumb bob is pretty foolproof, that was my point. If you don't agree, or don't care, that's fine, but don't get all indignant at the mere suggestion that you refine your measurement techniques.

Good luck with your problem.