blownoutsparkplug.com plug torque specs?
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From: Aurora, IL
blownoutsparkplug.com plug torque specs?
Has anybody seen the suggested plug torque specs at http://blownoutsparkplug.com/faqs.htm ?
They suggest 28 - 32 ft-lbs. This scares the you know what out of me. They say they have successfully done many this way. (and I have no reason to doubt this) I am afraid they will just twist right out of the head.
I will soon be retorqueing (sp?) my plugs and I saw this and I started wondering.
Has anyone tried this? Does everyone usually stick with the recommended values - which I understand are 12-14 ft-lbs, please correct me if I am wrong.
Thanks - Jim
They suggest 28 - 32 ft-lbs. This scares the you know what out of me. They say they have successfully done many this way. (and I have no reason to doubt this) I am afraid they will just twist right out of the head.
I will soon be retorqueing (sp?) my plugs and I saw this and I started wondering.
Has anyone tried this? Does everyone usually stick with the recommended values - which I understand are 12-14 ft-lbs, please correct me if I am wrong.
Thanks - Jim
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Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Where the war is...
Originally Posted by jim042796
Has anybody seen the suggested plug torque specs at http://blownoutsparkplug.com/faqs.htm ?
They suggest 28 - 32 ft-lbs. This scares the you know what out of me. They say they have successfully done many this way. (and I have no reason to doubt this) I am afraid they will just twist right out of the head.
I will soon be retorqueing (sp?) my plugs and I saw this and I started wondering.
Has anyone tried this? Does everyone usually stick with the recommended values - which I understand are 12-14 ft-lbs, please correct me if I am wrong.
Thanks - Jim
They suggest 28 - 32 ft-lbs. This scares the you know what out of me. They say they have successfully done many this way. (and I have no reason to doubt this) I am afraid they will just twist right out of the head.
I will soon be retorqueing (sp?) my plugs and I saw this and I started wondering.
Has anyone tried this? Does everyone usually stick with the recommended values - which I understand are 12-14 ft-lbs, please correct me if I am wrong.
Thanks - Jim
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From: SE Wyoming
It has been a while since I saw the many many different specs for the modulars but from what I remember 17ft-lbs was the highest I saw. It has always been my understanding that over torquing is the main reason why you pop a plug in the first place.
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From: Where the war is...
Originally Posted by kgwld1
Down near the bottom of there faq section they say they replace ALL sparkplugs not just the ones with insert at 28-30lbs.
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From: Aurora, IL
Originally Posted by vze2sgxa
Do they make the distinction between the torque values on the insert-repaired plugs and the torque on existing non-insert plugs?
This sentence is directly from their page. Keep in mind it is not the entire FAQ.
"To verify that we would not damage the original threads we used a test cylinder head with good factory threads we applied over 100 foot lbs of torque to the spark plug without any failure."
Jim
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From: Where the war is...
Originally Posted by jim042796
They don't really make a statement about torque for repaired heads, but they do say the following about original heads:
This sentence is directly from their page. Keep in mind it is not the entire FAQ.
"To verify that we would not damage the original threads we used a test cylinder head with good factory threads we applied over 100 foot lbs of torque to the spark plug without any failure."
Jim
This sentence is directly from their page. Keep in mind it is not the entire FAQ.
"To verify that we would not damage the original threads we used a test cylinder head with good factory threads we applied over 100 foot lbs of torque to the spark plug without any failure."
Jim
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Joined: Nov 2006
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From: SE Wyoming
Thats the same problem I had. Now if they over torqued that much and then put 70K miles on them and removed the plugs with no threads coming out they might have *some* credibility.
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There's no reason to go over 10-11 ft-lbs, 14-15 ft-lbs is too much, 28+ ft-lbs is flat idiotic and will likely strip the threads right there.
I actually torqued the plugs in my truck to 9 ft-lbs (with a dab of anti-seize on a stone cold engine) and it's been like that for 45,000 miles now, did it like that on my previous 2Vs for years and never had a spark plug issue and neither has anyone else who has followed that procedure.
Overtorqueing the plugs is the primary reason why they shoot out of the heads in the first place. Over tightening the plugs distorts and weakens the threads in the head. Even the assembly plant is sometimes guilty of overtightening the plugs.
I actually torqued the plugs in my truck to 9 ft-lbs (with a dab of anti-seize on a stone cold engine) and it's been like that for 45,000 miles now, did it like that on my previous 2Vs for years and never had a spark plug issue and neither has anyone else who has followed that procedure.
Overtorqueing the plugs is the primary reason why they shoot out of the heads in the first place. Over tightening the plugs distorts and weakens the threads in the head. Even the assembly plant is sometimes guilty of overtightening the plugs.
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Over torquing and detonation are the main reasons for blown plugs. The cylinder pressure raises really high during detonation and over torqued, stressed threads will not hold up to the detonation pressures.
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From: Where the war is...
Originally Posted by Big Bad
There's no reason to go over 10-11 ft-lbs, 14-15 ft-lbs is too much, 28+ ft-lbs is flat idiotic and will likely strip the threads right there.
I actually torqued the plugs in my truck to 9 ft-lbs (with a dab of anti-seize on a stone cold engine) and it's been like that for 45,000 miles now, did it like that on my previous 2Vs for years and never had a spark plug issue and neither has anyone else who has followed that procedure.
Overtorqueing the plugs is the primary reason why they shoot out of the heads in the first place. Over tightening the plugs distorts and weakens the threads in the head. Even the assembly plant is sometimes guilty of overtightening the plugs.
I actually torqued the plugs in my truck to 9 ft-lbs (with a dab of anti-seize on a stone cold engine) and it's been like that for 45,000 miles now, did it like that on my previous 2Vs for years and never had a spark plug issue and neither has anyone else who has followed that procedure.
Overtorqueing the plugs is the primary reason why they shoot out of the heads in the first place. Over tightening the plugs distorts and weakens the threads in the head. Even the assembly plant is sometimes guilty of overtightening the plugs.
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let me know if I've got it right
My 2002 f250 5.4 has 59,000 km (Can)/ 36,000 mi on it (used only to go fishing). It of course has the original factory plugs still in it....do i have to worry about spitting #3 plug? And if ok then when it comes time to change the plugs, use motorcraft/autolite plugs torqued to 14lbs+/- in a cold engine and everything should be ok. The reason I'm asking is because in another thread I stated that I was going to have a discussion with my Ford dealerships service manager on the subject of the spitting plugs when it goes in for 60,000km servicing. I'd like to avoid being stuck 50 miles in the bush with a blown plug if at all possible!
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From: Where the war is...
Originally Posted by pony
My 2002 f250 5.4 has 59,000 km (Can)/ 36,000 mi on it (used only to go fishing). It of course has the original factory plugs still in it....do i have to worry about spitting #3 plug? And if ok then when it comes time to change the plugs, use motorcraft/autolite plugs torqued to 14lbs+/- in a cold engine and everything should be ok. The reason I'm asking is because in another thread I stated that I was going to have a discussion with my Ford dealerships service manager on the subject of the spitting plugs when it goes in for 60,000km servicing. I'd like to avoid being stuck 50 miles in the bush with a blown plug if at all possible!
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I went and changed my plugs when I bought my 4.6 99 Exp. I was amazed to find mismatched part number plugs in different cylinders, so I assumed they were probably originals with 100k+ miles on them. I have my fingers crossed, because my Snap-on dealer told me not to torque the new plugs, just snug them only. So far, I have about 8k miles on them and everything seems ok. Now I read these posts, and the aluminum heads got me a little nervous.
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From: Where the war is...
Torque the plugs to exactly what the Ford manual says, not what your Snap On guys says. Unless he works for Ford, has a special line in to the Ford materials engineers, or just has a lot of stock invested in Ford - I wouldn't just 'snug them tight' like he says.