Trailering Tips
Trailering Tips
Gentlemen,
Sorry no technical diesel questions this time. I'd like some opinions based on experience. I tow a 16' flatbed trailer with a Toyota Landcruiser FJ40 on it. Total weight is about 7,000 lbs. I've secured the Cruiser by the axels and therefore let the suspension do it's thing. I have also secured the Cruiser by it's frame and therefore compress the suspension. Honestly, I have had no problems either way. Any comments would be appreciated.
Thanks
Sorry no technical diesel questions this time. I'd like some opinions based on experience. I tow a 16' flatbed trailer with a Toyota Landcruiser FJ40 on it. Total weight is about 7,000 lbs. I've secured the Cruiser by the axels and therefore let the suspension do it's thing. I have also secured the Cruiser by it's frame and therefore compress the suspension. Honestly, I have had no problems either way. Any comments would be appreciated.
Thanks
I've always tied my Bronco down by the axles. I tried chaining it to the D-rings on the bumpers once, but it has a really soft suspension and it didn't want to stay tight. Most other stuff I've hauled could have went either way.
Jason
Jason
I always go with the axles. I think that the body / frame moving around can loosen your chains / tie downs. It takes a lot of force to compress suspension, putting more stress on chains, links, tie-downs, d-rings etc. Why add to the chance of failure ?
'just my $.02
'just my $.02
I would do both or if I just did just one it would be the chassis.
Bouncing Landcruiser on a bouncing trailer could cause problems.
We do have some rather rough roads with steep hills and sharp turns here though.
I prefer my load to be as solid as I can get it.
When you see the body bouncing around, you know you have a chain problem.
If the body is alway bouncing, you may not know you have a problem till it leaves the trailer.
My .015 worth.
Bouncing Landcruiser on a bouncing trailer could cause problems.
We do have some rather rough roads with steep hills and sharp turns here though.
I prefer my load to be as solid as I can get it.
When you see the body bouncing around, you know you have a chain problem.
If the body is alway bouncing, you may not know you have a problem till it leaves the trailer.
My .015 worth.
It may sound silly, but I like to tie it down, drive a short distance, stop, and then double check that everything is still tight. Then I set the parking brake too. I don't have the experience of most of you guys, but it seems that a vehicle is more likely to roll off than bounce off. Of course, I haven't towed in the hills... Just my $0.02.
Are you using chains or straps? I'd do straps around the axles and/or chains+binders to the frame. But...what do I know???
Are you using chains or straps? I'd do straps around the axles and/or chains+binders to the frame. But...what do I know???
Something like that I would use chains, at least 5/16" proof coil good ones.
And I would also use rachet binders, not those snap binders that can come open when you hit a bump or put you in the hospital when the cheater pipe slips off the handle.
Straps are great, but one piece of sharp metal can make them trash in a very few miles.
We only use chains for equipment or vehicles.
Pipe, wood and stuff like that we only use straps.
And I would also use rachet binders, not those snap binders that can come open when you hit a bump or put you in the hospital when the cheater pipe slips off the handle.
Straps are great, but one piece of sharp metal can make them trash in a very few miles.
We only use chains for equipment or vehicles.
Pipe, wood and stuff like that we only use straps.
Thanks for all the replies. I use those 4" straps that ratchet. 2 in the front with 2 in the rear. The Cruiser is going nowhere even if one strap gets loose, torn, etc. I'm always checking attachment at each stop and consider myself a very safe driver especially with a 7,000 lb+ truck, carrying a 2,000lb camper, towing 7,000lbs. Speed is not an option. I'll flip a coin as to tie down frame, my suspension is soft on the Toy, or to axels. I'm towing from Lake Tahoe to Moab. About 1,000 miles each way.
Thanks again,
Basfire
Thanks again,
Basfire
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being of the habit of loading and binding 14,000# class trackhoe and 4X4 john deere tractor and various pickups on gooseneck, i like to bind the axles with chains and binders PLUS take 20,000# DOT certified 2 inch ratchet straps afterwards and compress the suspension. i know this is probably unnecessary, but having almost lost a car off a trailer once, i don't leave nuthin to chance. as far as the hoe and the JD tractor, we use chains and straps both. looks kind of like a wrapped Christmas package when we get through, but haven't had any worries with shifting loads. only my opinion for what it's worth. probably not .15 or even as much as .02.
speedrdr
speedrdr
Originally Posted by Dave Sponaugle
And I would also use rachet binders, not those snap binders that can come open when you hit a bump or put you in the hospital when the cheater pipe slips off the handle.
You definetely want to be clear of the winch bar when it slips though. At best, you could look like this
If you have a soft sprung 4wd tied down by the axles, the body isn't bouncing all over like you would think. The shocks are controlling the majority of movement. It is no worse than driving it on a curvy or bumpy road with excess body roll, except that now the axles are solid to the trailer. There are a lot of steep pulls and curves (not unlike Lombard in SF) around here, and the roads aren't exactly glass either. If your suspension is really soft, I've seen guys tie down the axles and then tie the frame to the axles as well, to keep movement to a minimum (like speedrdr mentioned).
Jason
25' Flatbead 2500 lbs
Class 1 Offroad Race Buggy 4000-4500 lbs
Lots of Distance, Bumps and hills in my area of trailering and never problem,
I tie with 4" Ratchet straps (2 up front and 2 in the back) to the rear trailing arms and front a-arms. I never attach to the chassis.
Class 1 Offroad Race Buggy 4000-4500 lbs
Lots of Distance, Bumps and hills in my area of trailering and never problem,
I tie with 4" Ratchet straps (2 up front and 2 in the back) to the rear trailing arms and front a-arms. I never attach to the chassis.
Towed several Jeep ranging from my cj7 with a 3.5" lift to my dads cj5 with a spring over on flexy cj7 springs to my buddies cj7 with full with axles on 3/4 ton chevy springs and allways strapped the axles. If you go to the fram and compress the suspention on a vehicle like these no matter how tight you get it it will still have room to compress under the straps and may walk around the trailer. Even if you are able to compress it to the bump stops it will still hve a chace of moveing. If you're still woundering wich is better go up to the top of Ice house rd and wach people unload there rigs they will all have straps over the axles. If you were towing some thing like every one who said they go to the frame is towing there would be no problem that is also how they strap down new vehicles on the way to dealerships. Just my 2 cents worth.
like i said earlier, i tend to over do things when it comes to safety. if 1/4 inch plate will repair trackhoe bucket, i figure 3/8 inch is just that much better. same way with securing loads; if two strap/chain points will hold it securely, i'll put five. sometimes i even use suspenders the same time i wear a belt. LOL
speedrdr
speedrdr
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