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Its not a bad year, but in general the late 1985-1987 are the best for absolute reliability at all cost. The advantage of the trucks after 1988 is the overdrive transmissions. Not as strong, but better for the real world where MPG is a concern.
1990 will be a 7.3L IDI unless it was a swap. Not a bad engine, but the 7.3 is more prone to cavitation of the cylinder walls than the older 6.9. Try to find out as much of the service history of the engine as possible and in particular, if the coolant PH was properly maintained (prevents cavitation).
The transmission will either be a ZF 5 speed if it is a manual, or an E4OD if it is an automatic.
The ZF5 is a pretty good tranny, if it shifts well and feels nice and tight, that its probably good to go.
The E4OD is VERY failure prone in the early years. If this truck has more than 100 000 on the clock it is most likely a rebuild. If this is an OEM ford rebuild, that would be the best. If it was done by some one else, find out who. A rebuild for an E4OD usually runs at least $2000.
Pay close attention to how the E4OD behaves. Feel how quickly it engages in forward and especially reverse, delayed engagement is bad. Pay attention to how it shifts, make sure if is not too hard or soft (does not slip). Light throttle should be nice and easy, hard throttle should firm up and NOT slip during the shift (slip will be revealled by an increace in RPM during an upshift, than finally coming back down when synchronized to the next gear).
Use the overdrive cancel switch. The 1990 model year uses the OD cancel light to display any fault codes. Some folks might disable the light to hide any fault codes. If the transmission responds, thats good, if the light never comes on, or flashes repeatedly, thats bad.
If you find any evidence of starter fluid being used on the engine, walk away (usually will crack the top compression ring, or other internal damage).
"1990 will be a 7.3L IDI unless it was a swap. Not a bad engine, but the 7.3 is more prone to cavitation of the cylinder walls than the older 6.9. Try to find out as much of the service history of the engine as possible and in particular, if the coolant PH was properly maintained (prevents cavitation)."
how do you test the ph level on the coolant?? is there a test strip i can get at oreilly's? is there some additive i need to add every so often?
NAPA sells stuff called NAPAKool cooling system treatment # on jug is 4058. htere's a coolant test strip kit NAPA part # 4107 that has test strips that check freeze point, nitrites and pH of coolant. it's cheapest insurance you can pay to make sure everything's hunky-dory in the coolant system. o'reiley's probably has something like that but we don't have one here, that's why i gave you the napa numbers. o'reiley's can probably cross reference them---mayby.
Make sure you check the expiry date on the bottle of testing strips, the guy who sold me my strips nearly sold me product that was 3 months expired. I pointed out the date and he seemd so supprised, yeah right. Just check the date to make sure the product is still sound, otherwise it is good to have.
i have a 1990 f-250 2wd auto 132000 miles, love it great truck tranny shifts great no broblems, starts great even on the coldest morning without being pluged in.
IDI diesels have a prechamber above the piston where the fuel is injected before it reaches the cylinder. DI diesels inject the fuel directly into the cylinder and have no prechamber.
My truck is a 90 f250. It's been a great truck. I think the tranny is starting to go though. Other than that, its a solid truck that will haul ***** to the wall. Lots of power, good n loud...my kinda truck.
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