Vent Window Rubber Shortcut
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Junior User
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Vent Window Rubber Shortcut
After reading all the horror stories about removing the division bar, crank aseembly etc. to replace the window vent rubber, I decided to try an alternate procedure yesterday. Total time to replace the vent window rubber for one side was about 15 minutes and it worked flawlessly.
Begin by removing the old rubber from the doorframe. There is a "c" channel into which the rubber gastket fits. Mine was original and had the texture of peanut brittle in some areas, and a fan belt in others. A small flat blade screw driver was very helpful in prying it loose.
Once the rubber was removed, I opened the window and put pressure (about 100 pounds) on the toip of the vent window until the hinge dropped below the pin upon which it pivots. I then tilted the window and lifted it off of the lower pin.
It took about five minutes to press the new rubber in place. Reinstallation of the window took a little more pressure, but was pretty easy. Now I can roll down the road with no annoying vent window whistle!
Begin by removing the old rubber from the doorframe. There is a "c" channel into which the rubber gastket fits. Mine was original and had the texture of peanut brittle in some areas, and a fan belt in others. A small flat blade screw driver was very helpful in prying it loose.
Once the rubber was removed, I opened the window and put pressure (about 100 pounds) on the toip of the vent window until the hinge dropped below the pin upon which it pivots. I then tilted the window and lifted it off of the lower pin.
It took about five minutes to press the new rubber in place. Reinstallation of the window took a little more pressure, but was pretty easy. Now I can roll down the road with no annoying vent window whistle!
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Simi Valley, CA
What happens if the upper pivot snaps, or pops off that vent frame?
The vent frame will flop around, so you won't be able to secure it...which means someone can get into your truck.
Bottom line: the vent frame has to be replaced.
Judi, the last time I weighed 110 lbs, I was 10 years old.
If you wanna try this method, I'll come by and sit on it, my current weight is 335 lbs.
That'll fix it...for good!
The vent frame will flop around, so you won't be able to secure it...which means someone can get into your truck.
Bottom line: the vent frame has to be replaced.
Judi, the last time I weighed 110 lbs, I was 10 years old.
If you wanna try this method, I'll come by and sit on it, my current weight is 335 lbs.
That'll fix it...for good!
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I remember my dad using silicone to seal his vent windows when i was a kid. After installing new seals in mine last week, I think he had a pretty good idea : )
But then, the duct tape seat cover was a bad idea in the hot Texas summer.....
But then, the duct tape seat cover was a bad idea in the hot Texas summer.....
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I added pressure to the window glass by holding it just above the hinge and pulling directly down. It may have been 50 pounds, not 100, but it did take some effort. Trick is to pull straight down so there is no pressure on the pivot pin. As someone else said, you wouldn't want to break it off.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Originally Posted by FitchBanjos
I remember my dad using silicone to seal his vent windows when i was a kid. After installing new seals in mine last week, I think he had a pretty good idea : )
But then, the duct tape seat cover was a bad idea in the hot Texas summer.....
But then, the duct tape seat cover was a bad idea in the hot Texas summer.....
Do not spray or use any form of silicone anywhere near the vehicles paint ESPECIALLY if your vehicle has two stage clear coat paint.
Silicone will strip the clear coat right off.
If silicone makes contact with vehicles painted with the old Duco enamel or acrylic enamel or lacquer, or nitrocellulose lacquer.....
...if the vehicle is to be repainted, it may be necessary to strip off all the affected paint and primer coat down to the bare metal.
Old time ad: "Hi, I'm Earl Scheib, I'll paint any car any color for only $19.95."
'Ol Earls paint contained silicone for many years, where its shine came from...just try repainting over it! As long as it was Earl's paint, that's just ducky, otherwise...
Furniture Polish = some brands contain silicone (one is very well known, and starts with the letter P).
Do not use this crap on original hand rubbed oil or shellac finishes old timey furniture has. The silicone will eat into the wood...if refinishing is necessary, get out your sander.
Don't use this crap on gunstocks, either!!
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Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 4,375
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From: seattle
The bad thing about applying direct downward pressure is what if the rivets holding the lower pivot are loose to begin with or theres rust on the inside of the frames which cant be seen and you press down and the pivot goes up and breaks the glass, you get cut possibly and a bad frame and oodles and oodles of hours of frustration...From my experiecne in gutting the door...which is essentially done to replace the vent rubber...theres 3 really hard areas to content with finicky fasteners...the window regulator(I have spares if anyone is in need), there is a tiny #2 (if you are lucky) screw about 1/2" forward of the division bar which holds the lower portion of the vent rubber retainer to it as well as the door...patience is very much necessary on this lil hummer as it can derail the whole project from being relatively easy yo becoming a real pain.
The 3rd thing I have always had to work at with patience, is snaking the division bar assy out of the door.
Are we having fun yet ??? Oh yeah...to remove the division bar, the window sweepers need to come out too...
- cs65
The 3rd thing I have always had to work at with patience, is snaking the division bar assy out of the door.
Are we having fun yet ??? Oh yeah...to remove the division bar, the window sweepers need to come out too...
- cs65
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Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Clarksville,Tn
Sounds like a neat shortcut; But if the upper pivot breaks; as far as I know their's none being reman; only choice is a donor truck vent window.
Thanks for the insight... I'm sure I would break it. I can tear up a rock.
Mitch
Thanks for the insight... I'm sure I would break it. I can tear up a rock.
Mitch
Ford Parts Specialist
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Originally Posted by camperspecial65
Are we having fun yet ??? Oh yeah...to remove the division bar, the window sweepers need to come out too...- cs65
Window sweepers...horizontal w/seals at the beltline on the inside/outside of the glass.
Known in the autoglass biz as Cat Whiskers.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 4,375
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From: seattle
LOL...I love it...It looks as if Bill and I were replying at the same time as I :-)
Before I read it here from Bill, I had no clue about the whole silicone thing either...Theres definately something to be said for experienced people like Bill :-)
- cs65
Before I read it here from Bill, I had no clue about the whole silicone thing either...Theres definately something to be said for experienced people like Bill :-)
- cs65
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While the shortcut worked for me, I acknowledge it might be a risk others are unwilling to take. If the main risk is breaking the vent window frame, it is worth it even if it breaks because you would have to replace the vent window frame anyway if you did the whole procedure. FitchBanjos and others who have done it have said it is a real four hour b**l buster.
One other shortcut would be to simply cut a small slit in the vent rubber so it fits around the bottom post. Less than ideal, but you wouldn't have to mess with removing the division bar. I appreciate Mitch's concern as well. If you don't have pretty good manual dexterity and some strength, this can be a tricky repair.
For the record, I don't generally use duct tape, JB Weld, bailing wire, pop rivets, liquid nails, caulk or other "temporary" repairs, but I will take a chance on an experimental methodology to save some time. This one worked for me, but everyone else will have to make their own choice between doing it right and doing it before the wife comes out to ask why you are doing it and when you will be finished.
One other shortcut would be to simply cut a small slit in the vent rubber so it fits around the bottom post. Less than ideal, but you wouldn't have to mess with removing the division bar. I appreciate Mitch's concern as well. If you don't have pretty good manual dexterity and some strength, this can be a tricky repair.
For the record, I don't generally use duct tape, JB Weld, bailing wire, pop rivets, liquid nails, caulk or other "temporary" repairs, but I will take a chance on an experimental methodology to save some time. This one worked for me, but everyone else will have to make their own choice between doing it right and doing it before the wife comes out to ask why you are doing it and when you will be finished.
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DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME !!
Dang you guys are making me home sick for the good old days ( duct tape, bailing wire and .35 cent gas ). Regular maintenance quart of oil and a new piece of bailing wire on the muffler.
My bud in high school used black electrical tape to put racing stripes on his 65 galaxy. Oh those were GOOD times.
Number D your on a roll this morning!! " Cat Whiskers , pledge , and Geo ducts " Its gonna be a good weekend.
Dang you guys are making me home sick for the good old days ( duct tape, bailing wire and .35 cent gas ). Regular maintenance quart of oil and a new piece of bailing wire on the muffler.
My bud in high school used black electrical tape to put racing stripes on his 65 galaxy. Oh those were GOOD times.
Number D your on a roll this morning!! " Cat Whiskers , pledge , and Geo ducts " Its gonna be a good weekend.