Bed removal
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Bed removal
I just got a batch of patch panels for my 86 F-150. My question is this -- to replace cab corners do I have to remove the bed or can I just take out the bolts and slide the bed back far enough to make room to work? Other than disconnecting the wires is there anything else I need to worry about? Never done this before so I thought I'd ask.
Going to do new floor panel and new rockers also. Lots of work. Hope it's worth it when it's done.
Thanks for the help.
Jeff in northern Wisconsin
Going to do new floor panel and new rockers also. Lots of work. Hope it's worth it when it's done.
Thanks for the help.
Jeff in northern Wisconsin
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From: Cincinnati Ohio
Yea if you do break the bolts you will be making a trip to the dealer or have to make up something to fit, because ford is netorius for having odd size bolts. When taking the bed off make sure you disconnect the hose fittings for the gas tank(s). Make sure the wiring is disconnected for the lights. And I'm sure you could just slide the bed back without taking it all the way off, just don't go to far or it will teeter off the back end...
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I hate to sound stupid (although I've had plenty of practice) but what is so special about the bed bolts? Do you have to get them through a dealer? If anyone has substituted regular hardware could you give me the specs? Thanks.
Jeff in northern Wisconsin
Jeff in northern Wisconsin
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From: Virginia
The factory bolts are very large at the head area. I don't know what size they would be equal to, but it would be in the neighborhood of 3/4" carriage type bolt or larger. But the threaded portion that goes through the frame is only 1/2". That's the problem.
I bought standard 1/2" carriage bolts, and very large washers that would allow the square part of the 1/2" carriage bolt to slide down in. Ineeded the washers since the hole in the bed is so big. Before I installed these, I ground flats on two sides of the carriage bolt head, so I could hold them if need be with a adjustable wrench. Then everything will bolt together.
I bought standard 1/2" carriage bolts, and very large washers that would allow the square part of the 1/2" carriage bolt to slide down in. Ineeded the washers since the hole in the bed is so big. Before I installed these, I ground flats on two sides of the carriage bolt head, so I could hold them if need be with a adjustable wrench. Then everything will bolt together.
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From: Suffolk, VA USA
Your truck is an 86...does it have 6 or 8 bed bolts? And is it a short or long bed? 86 was a changeover year between the old 8 bolt and new 6 bolt mounting sytems for the long beds. Some were built with the old and some with the new system. It makes a big difference. The 6 bolt long bed uses carriage bolts only for the two rear holes...the other four use two different oblong shaped bolts. The two front bolts are different from the middle bolts. Using the right bolts is important. You don't want the wrong bolts or setup to shear under a load, especially in an collision. It's a good way to get you or someone else killed.
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pedant
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From: EXTREME southwest CT
Originally Posted by ttpenman
Other than disconnecting the wires is there anything else I need to worry about? Never done this before so I thought I'd ask.
Jeff in northern Wisconsin
Jeff in northern Wisconsin
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Brett Foote
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From: Uniontown PA USA
I think you can use regular hardware as long as you use washers.
The hardware included with body lift kits basically just use about a 6 inch by 1/2" bolt, washer, and locknut.
Especially if you use a drop in liner, you'll never even see them.
The hardware included with body lift kits basically just use about a 6 inch by 1/2" bolt, washer, and locknut.
Especially if you use a drop in liner, you'll never even see them.
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From: Suffolk, VA USA
If you're going to try to rig something, use hardened nuts and bolts at a minimum. Trust me on this one. I'm still alive because I spent the extra few bucks in my 82 F100...the one that got totalled by a hit and run driver on 95....I got put head-on into the barrier doing 70. The right hardware makes a difference.
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From: Out of here
Originally Posted by ri_truck_guy
If you're going to try to rig something, use hardened nuts and bolts at a minimum. Trust me on this one. I'm still alive because I spent the extra few bucks in my 82 F100...the one that got totalled by a hit and run driver on 95....I got put head-on into the barrier doing 70. The right hardware makes a difference.
If on the other hand, you rarely haul anything (like me) the carriage bolts will be fine. (8) 1/2" carriage bolts, washers and lock nuts will certainly keep the bed on. The sheetmetal around the bolt it weaker than the bolt itself and would probably tear before the bolt shears.
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