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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 07:40 PM
  #16  
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He would be foolish to pull the head without a good compression test and leak down test. If he doesn't do those things all he could do it pull the head and say "yep there's a piston" and put it all back together. It might be time to find another shop to do your work!
 
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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 08:07 PM
  #17  
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It runs better when it warms up... And cant really notice a miss when at cruising speeds But it gotten worse at idle(quote)

man that sure sounds like a bad injector!
 
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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 11:41 PM
  #18  
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I know.... But the chances of getting a new bad injector has to be slim to none. Not saying that it hasn't happened before, but u understand where im coming from. So tomorrow I will be going there to talk to the Service manager and se what he wants to do about his crappy tech. If he'd rather stand behind his Techs guess work then apparently I need to either A. take it somewhere els, or B. Have my friend thats a lawyer call his boss. I know that costumer service has at least some pull around here. The worse part is, is that there is no better place to take it anywhere around here.
I may not be diesel savvy, but I'm am coming up with better ways to figure this out then this Certified tech is.
Is it possible that something internally in my motor is making injectors go bad, within seconds of first firing? But it has to be something that wouldn't cause the SES light to come on right away. When me and my friend did the injector the first time I didnt get the 308 code for over 2 days after fixing it. Now I got the SES light within mins. of driving out of the dealership. Any ideas? I need fuel for dealing with these idiots.
Thanks
 
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Old Mar 19, 2008 | 12:03 AM
  #19  
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The big problem with the dealer is that their repair protocol is not set up to save you money in parts. It is set up to get the truck rolling with the least amount of time possible by throwing parts at it. That way your truck is out on the road and the next one is getting parts thrown at it. Labor costs can quickly exceed parts on certain jobs.

Having said that, I don't know where they came up with pulling the head thing, and also what is up with the lame 200psi compression check that they elected to throw out because the did not test it correctly? They need to do a proper compression check and leakdown before even considering any of the head pulling BS. Perhaps a crankcase pressure test for blowby is in order. There is no reason for any of this until something tells them to go there.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2008 | 12:36 AM
  #20  
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Well apparently since he didn't fix it the first time this is all he can figure out to do... But heres the kicker!!! When I called back to talk to the service adviser she asked me if anyone had said anything about a 285 code... I said no what is that? she went on to explain to me that that is a code that says there is something wrong internally... So i just did some research and UM well the only 285 code that ford has is "injector Circuit low #9 cylinder" So now shes just pulling stuff out of her ARS and lying to me.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2008 | 12:54 AM
  #21  
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Haha, so now you have a V10?
 
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Old Mar 19, 2008 | 01:01 AM
  #22  
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HOLY S***, Mike dun figure out my issue... the dang thing is a V10!!!! All this time id been puttin d-cel in it.... I knew i shoulda takin 5th grade 3 times... lol what a bunch of morons at the dealership!
 
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Old Mar 19, 2008 | 01:14 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by 4inchlovin
HOLY S***, Mike dun figure out my issue... the dang thing is a V10!!!! All this time id been puttin d-cel in it.... I knew i shoulda takin 5th grade 3 times... lol what a bunch of morons at the dealership!
Most good mechanics with a little ambition aren't working at a dealership. I had an injector problem, this was before I came to FTE, that took 3 mechanics and 17 calendar days for a dealership to fix. The third mechanic was their best they say. He must have been, he got it fixed. It wound up being the #1 injector cup. Fortunately the truck was still under warranty. By the way the symptoms were different than your's.

Edit : Had a thought. Usually a bad cup means fuel in the coolant. Put maybe a bad cup could FU an injector without being so bad it would allow fuel into the cooling system. Just something to think about. That hasn't been mentioned before I don't think.

Edit 2 : Bad injector cup link http://lerch.no-ip.com/PSD_Cups/

Edit 3 : The article says to remove all injectors and pressure test coolant system to find bad cup. You could just remove #8 and do the test. Just trying to supply you with more fuel to deal with those idiots.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2008 | 01:26 AM
  #24  
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Good thinking Robin... Thanks
 
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Old Mar 19, 2008 | 01:34 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by 4inchlovin
Good thinking Robin... Thanks
I edited my previous post a few times, you might want to reveiw it. I'm falling asleep at the keyboard so I better hit the sack. Us old farts get tired this close to midnight.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2008 | 04:46 AM
  #26  
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200 psi for whatever reason will make your truck run exactly as you describe.
Not enough compression heat is generated to fire the injected diesel fuel at idle.
That's why I was asking if it runs better on the road, the engine is turning faster and the dynamic compression comes up and then there is enough heat to fire the fuel. The miss goes away.
Find the cause of that, repair it, and the truck will run fine.
.
Did you make sure that the cylinder was clear when you put in the first injector?
Hydrolocking an engine can cause a lot of damage.
I always remove the glow plug/s and crank the engine over for a few seconds to make sure before attempting to start it.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2008 | 12:36 PM
  #27  
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Dan-We did a very in depth job of cleaning out the cylidner before putting the new one in...
The horrible noise that it made when I decided to have it towed to the dealer ship has now gone away. Id the ICM still a thing to think about... My buddy has a '99 that has the same ICM as my truck so i think we might try swapping them to see if it fixes my truck... Anyone have pics/location of the ICM???
 
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Old Mar 19, 2008 | 12:53 PM
  #28  
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IDM? I believe yours, like my 2001, is in the inner fender on the drivers side. Probably the most stupid place in the world to put it. My mechanic/shop talked about how hard it was to get to and how expensive it was. Took me 15 minutes and that was the time gathering various tools. The same enginner who picked that spot also thought it would be a good idea to use 3-4 different size screws and bolts. You basically unscrew the black fender liner thingy (back half..not the whole thing) and pull it out from under the fender slightly. When you look straight up un the little section of fender between the tire and the door hinge...you will see the IDM. A couple of 10mm bolts later and off it comes. With that said....I have done an IDM swap with no results on my truck...and the code I was receiving was definitely pointing to the IDM. Glad I found one online and installed myself or I'd be really PO'ed.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2008 | 01:12 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by 4inchlovin
Anyone have pics/location of the ICM???
To go along with Allen's instructions here's a diagram
 
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Old Mar 19, 2008 | 01:57 PM
  #30  
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Thanks... i think we are going to try swapping things around this afternoon and see what happens
 
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