integrated trailer controll
Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2008
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I notice that my electric brake control..seems to "grab" at slow speeds..but only -drags- the trailer to slower speed when at hiway speeds...
Wont "lock-em up" in an emergency stop situation...7500lb travel trailer !
Wont "lock-em up" in an emergency stop situation...7500lb travel trailer !
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From: Stephensville WI
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Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 30
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AH...SOOOoooo
I'll just keep ---looking---planing--- way out ahead, when on the road.....
Guess I just drove those "Big Rigs" too many miles......Now you can LOCK THOSE BABY'S -UP !! (was only my "spare time employment".....did a lot of different jobs..wuz-ah-"soldier of fortune")
I'll just keep ---looking---planing--- way out ahead, when on the road.....
Guess I just drove those "Big Rigs" too many miles......Now you can LOCK THOSE BABY'S -UP !! (was only my "spare time employment".....did a lot of different jobs..wuz-ah-"soldier of fortune")
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Joined: Sep 2000
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From: Stephensville WI
This is from the 2006 owner's manual, instructions on how to setup the TBC.
Procedure for adjusting GAIN:
Note: This should only be performed in a traffic free environment at
speeds of approximately 20 – 25 mph (30 – 40 km/h).
1. Make sure the trailer brakes are in good working condition,
functioning normally, and properly adjusted. See your trailer dealer if
necessary.
2. Hook-up the trailer and make the electrical connections according to
the trailer manufacturer’s instructions.
3. When a trailer with electric brakes is plugged in, the trailer connection
indicator will illuminate green on the TBC and the GAIN setting display
will illuminate.
4. Use the GAIN adjustment (+/-) buttons to increase or decrease the
GAIN setting to the desired starting point. (A GAIN setting of 6.0 is a
good starting point for heavier loads.)
5. In a traffic-free environment, tow the trailer on a dry, level surface at
a speed of 20 – 25 mph (30 – 40 km/h) and squeeze the manual control
lever completely.
6. If the trailer wheels lock-up (indicated by squealing tires), reduce the
GAIN setting; if the trailer wheels turn freely, increase the GAIN setting.
Repeat Steps 5 and 6 until the GAIN setting is at a point just below
trailer wheel lock-up. If towing a heavier trailer, trailer wheel lockup may
not be attainable even with the maximum GAIN setting of 10.
Procedure for adjusting GAIN:
Note: This should only be performed in a traffic free environment at
speeds of approximately 20 – 25 mph (30 – 40 km/h).
1. Make sure the trailer brakes are in good working condition,
functioning normally, and properly adjusted. See your trailer dealer if
necessary.
2. Hook-up the trailer and make the electrical connections according to
the trailer manufacturer’s instructions.
3. When a trailer with electric brakes is plugged in, the trailer connection
indicator will illuminate green on the TBC and the GAIN setting display
will illuminate.
4. Use the GAIN adjustment (+/-) buttons to increase or decrease the
GAIN setting to the desired starting point. (A GAIN setting of 6.0 is a
good starting point for heavier loads.)
5. In a traffic-free environment, tow the trailer on a dry, level surface at
a speed of 20 – 25 mph (30 – 40 km/h) and squeeze the manual control
lever completely.
6. If the trailer wheels lock-up (indicated by squealing tires), reduce the
GAIN setting; if the trailer wheels turn freely, increase the GAIN setting.
Repeat Steps 5 and 6 until the GAIN setting is at a point just below
trailer wheel lock-up. If towing a heavier trailer, trailer wheel lockup may
not be attainable even with the maximum GAIN setting of 10.
Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 30
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Thanks for that info...I'm an old AIR BRAKES GUY....
I'll do that with my travel trailer ASAP !
Heading out in June..on a big "retirement trip"
My wife is retireing, due to, loss of eyesight...
See has never seen a "Fire Fly" and has worked her entire career in "Vector Control" in California...
I promised her for 25 years I'd make sure she gets to see some....
Got family in North East Nebraska, (on "The Wide Missouri")...heading over there for the peak "LIGHTENING BUG" season ---
Dont want to have any truck-trailer problem on the road if I can avoid it..
I'll do that with my travel trailer ASAP !
Heading out in June..on a big "retirement trip"
My wife is retireing, due to, loss of eyesight...
See has never seen a "Fire Fly" and has worked her entire career in "Vector Control" in California...
I promised her for 25 years I'd make sure she gets to see some....
Got family in North East Nebraska, (on "The Wide Missouri")...heading over there for the peak "LIGHTENING BUG" season ---
Dont want to have any truck-trailer problem on the road if I can avoid it..
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,889
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From: MACON, GA
Originally Posted by Jakesrodshop
guys got a 05 f350 dually 6.0 with integrated trailer controller, will this controller put out enough power to control a 3 axle brake trailer?
Perhaps I can save you some grief. I had an F-350 KR, dwl, long bed, with brake controller. There was a change in the controller. PRE 3/23/05 build date trucks is 1 to 3 volts at standstill or minimum mph. In other words, you cannot hook up your trailer and test your brakes. Everything works fine at 20 + mph.
You can make specific reference to this situation by reviewing TSB # 18892 dated 10/19/2005.
As an old trucker, you know we learned to hook up and test. Can't do it. Ford will not replace the controller. If your truck is in the pre build date of 03/23/05, let me know and I can give you more details.
Good luck,
Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 30
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I'v ..noticed that the trailer brakes were -if'y- since I first bought the truck
(used)..
Tried two different trailer brake controllers ...now have a PRODIGY...
Does work better than the one that was on the truck when I bought it
But No thrill..unless you enjoy....loooong stopping distances
...(No more exciting than those CPS intermittent glitches..I always "loved" the one where you are all hooked up--heavy, coasting up to a left turn, at an intersection..with a string of 60 mph Big rigs, on-comming...Just as you -timed-a roll thru opening in the traffic..THE ENGINE SHUTS DOWN !...no steering, no Brakes, no acceleration...and there you are-mid intersection..sure glad someone got -THAT ONE- figured out)
(used)..
Tried two different trailer brake controllers ...now have a PRODIGY...
Does work better than the one that was on the truck when I bought it
But No thrill..unless you enjoy....loooong stopping distances
...(No more exciting than those CPS intermittent glitches..I always "loved" the one where you are all hooked up--heavy, coasting up to a left turn, at an intersection..with a string of 60 mph Big rigs, on-comming...Just as you -timed-a roll thru opening in the traffic..THE ENGINE SHUTS DOWN !...no steering, no Brakes, no acceleration...and there you are-mid intersection..sure glad someone got -THAT ONE- figured out)
New User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: South Carolina
I've got a 2005 F250 with the dash controller and also found that you CANNOT test at low speeds (like moving down the driveway). Tried it that way and nothing happened - the wheels still turned and nothing slowed down (I'm running a 2-axle car hauler). I paniced (Shoot! Damn thing isn't working!!) but then common sense overcame me - I read the user manual....
Re-tested it out on the road at 25 mph with the gain set at 5 (after I finally read the user manual) and got no wheel squeel, but LOTS of blue smoke pouring off of the tires!
Reduced the gain and found 3.0 works fine (lots of stop, but not quite lockup). Once I get the trailer loaded I'll probably up it to 3.5 or so as I retest.
Should be plenty of gain there for a 3-axle rig.
Gordon
Re-tested it out on the road at 25 mph with the gain set at 5 (after I finally read the user manual) and got no wheel squeel, but LOTS of blue smoke pouring off of the tires!
Reduced the gain and found 3.0 works fine (lots of stop, but not quite lockup). Once I get the trailer loaded I'll probably up it to 3.5 or so as I retest.
Should be plenty of gain there for a 3-axle rig.
Gordon
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 58
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heres a twist
my 2005 when i plug the trailer in does not charge the trailer battery or give power to the dc lights in the trailer, my 01 f250 powered everything, i did not get the manual when i got the 05 in the fall it has 28k on it and i just wondered if it were a fuse or relay i needed to install to get 12 volts to trailer battery and lights? i have to imagine all 7 slots are used in the connector. let me know,.
thanks again
jake
thanks again
jake
New User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: South Carolina
Kake:
It should all be there in the 7-tab connector, but there's a fuse up under the hood which controls that function (trailer battery charge/12V AUX - there may be a fuse under the dash, too). Can't remember which one and don't have my manual at the moment, but there's a fuse AND a possible relay (both in the same box under the hood).
Bear in mind that if your trailer internal lights are wired to the same source as trailer battery charge, that connector tab <i>may</i> go dead when the tow vehicle's engine is not running (some work that way).
Gordon
It should all be there in the 7-tab connector, but there's a fuse up under the hood which controls that function (trailer battery charge/12V AUX - there may be a fuse under the dash, too). Can't remember which one and don't have my manual at the moment, but there's a fuse AND a possible relay (both in the same box under the hood).
Bear in mind that if your trailer internal lights are wired to the same source as trailer battery charge, that connector tab <i>may</i> go dead when the tow vehicle's engine is not running (some work that way).
Gordon