When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I hope somebody can help me. I have replaced the starter, seloniod, and ignition switch and it still won't start. On the ignition side, you turn the key to the on position and the engine truns over, no spark though. If I take a wire from the battery to the coil it will start, but the starter stays engaged. I don't know what to do next. I also replaced the ground from the block to the cab and bolted the seloniod to the inner fender. I read the it could be the pink wire that comes from the ignition to coil. If so, can a wire be ran from the coil to the back of the ignition to see if that is the issue.
If the starter is engaging while the key is in the "ON" position...then something is wired wrong on key switch. The starter should only turn in the "START" position. Has the wiring been cut anywhere? The key should have a plug on it, so it should not be an issue. Hows the wiring from there?
If I recall the pink wire IS the coil wire. With the key in the "ON" position you should get about 9v at the coil. With the key in the START position, I think it gets the full 12v(to aide in starting). Don't leave 12v to coil for extended period as it will burn the coil up.
I did replace the ignition from the my 70's cab because the 68's ignition wires started coming out of the ignition. I did check the coil with a jump wire to the back of the ignition. The coil has power on both sides.. But still not spark. What else could it be?
They changed the wiring around 69-70, they reversed the ignition and start pins. I had the same thing with one of my trucks, when I used the ignition switch out of my 72 in it.
Put the right switch in, and wire it as stock, and it should be good to go.
If I recall the pink wire IS the coil wire. With the key in the "ON" position you should get about 9v at the coil. With the key in the START position, I think it gets the full 12v(to aide in starting). Don't leave 12v to coil for extended period as it will burn the coil up.
this is only if he has a resistor wire, and thats 10 volts that it drops it to not to pamper the coil but so the points dont get burnt up
61.50" long / #20 gauge wire / color coded pink / 1.30 - 1.40 ohms.
All Ford trucks from 1960 thru 1972 use this same resistor wire.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ VERYIMPORTANT~ NOTE > > >
1968/69 & EARLY 1970 F100/350's (before serial # G90,001) had a faulty ignition switch which shortedout and caught FIRE!!
Ford replaced the original switch with a new type which also came with a pigtailed wired plug.
In 1971, there was Federal Gov't ordered recall to replace these faulty switches.
The recall also applied to all the cars and Econolines because they used the same switch, but who knows how many were actually replaced.
This switch is still supplied by Ford.
Ford_six. What if the wires on the pigtail are the same. The wiring on the 68 was coming out and other wires were loose. When I switched the ignition. I looked to see if there was any difference. I didn't notice any. I have looked wire diagrams to make sure. and all I can find are 69 wire diagrams.
How can you tell if the pins are different? I can't find 68 wire diagram for the ignition. I have found a 69's wire diagram though. The 68's wires to the ignition are the same color of the 70's ignition. Can you still get a 68 ignition still?
How can you tell if the pins are different? I can't find 68 wire diagram for the ignition. I have found a 69's wire diagram though. The 68's wires to the ignition are the same color of the 70's ignition. Can you still get a 68 ignition still?
Forget the wiring harness picture...it may not be correct.
Did you read post #6 above in regard to these ignition switches?
IF your switch has a plug where pigtailed wires have been spliced to the loom, you have the Ford replacement ignition switch.
If you don't have wiring like this, you still have the original UNSAFE ignition switch, that shorts out and catches FIRE!! Change it!
I remember back in the late 1960's, when all these 1968/70 Fords were burning up because of those defective ignition switches.
but i ran into a similar problem... if you can start the truck by running a wire from the battery to the coil then your coil is good and it is the ignition switch or wire.... ignition switches are fairly inexpensive... if you want to test the wire run a different wire from the ignition switch to the coil... but if you change that wire and it works make sure you check to see if everything else ran to the ignition wire workse... otherwise you will have a lot of re wiring to do
I just checked the starter side of the seloniod yesterday. I shows that it is working. So, I hope it is just the wire from the seloniod to the ignition. I' going to check it tomorrow.
Thanks for the help
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.