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If anyone has any good input I just made all the repairs to my fuel system but now I ended up with a steady engine miss. Clogged injector ? The truck was repaired on Long Island and driven to Pennsylvania with no improvement. Did anyone at Ford Motor Company ever think about engine maintanance and repair when they designed the Econoline van ?
If anyone has any good input I just made all the repairs to my fuel system but now I ended up with a steady engine miss. Clogged injector ? The truck was repaired on Long Island and driven to Pennsylvania with no improvement. Did anyone at Ford Motor Company ever think about engine maintanance and repair when they designed the Econoline van ?
Youll get more help with your problem if you start you own thread ,,,Tell us about the symptoms & some info about the truck ,maint. ect...
My truck still won't start. It fires couple times, rolls over a few more, fires, rolls over...
I'm seeing lots of white smoke.
Here is everything I've checked so far:
Fuel bowl is full.
40psi fuel pressure
HPOP resivour is full
Tested injectors with a ohms meter.
checked battery voltage while cranking (12+ volts)
Tach shows 300 rpm while rolling over
I followed all sensor wiring and harnesses looking for a short
I tried unplugging ICP while rolling motor over
My truck still won't start. It fires couple times, rolls over a few more, fires, rolls over...
I'm seeing lots of white smoke.
Here is everything I've checked so far:
Fuel bowl is full.
40psi fuel pressure
HPOP resivour is full
Tested injectors with a ohms meter.
checked battery voltage while cranking (12+ volts)
Tach shows 300 rpm while rolling over
I followed all sensor wiring and harnesses looking for a short
I tried unplugging ICP while rolling motor over
yes, both valve covers off. I thoroughly inspected every injector wire doing a test with an ohms meter for each injector and glo-plug. the gaskets and wires all looked good. I was doing a little searching in previous posts and came across some information about injector o rings. is this a possibility?
yes, both valve covers off. I thoroughly inspected every injector wire doing a test with an ohms meter for each injector and glo-plug. the gaskets and wires all looked good. I was doing a little searching in previous posts and came across some information about injector o rings. is this a possibility?
Have someone turn it over for you ,while you look for oil coming from the base of an injector ...Also , watch the oil spill spouts ,, should be the same amount of oil coming from each one ....
Check your chasis fuel pump output ? Sounds to me as if your having a fuel related problem . White smoke is a sign of the engine sucking air and running lean.
Check your chasis fuel pump output ? Sounds to me as if your having a fuel related problem . White smoke is a sign of the engine sucking air and running lean.
I think your friend would be better off finding someone with a scan tool of some sort to find a code, if it's been running like what you say then there should be something stored.
If he is seeing lots of white smoke when he is trying to start Action wouldn't that mean he is getting fuel?
I think your friend would be better off finding someone with a scan tool of some sort to find a code, if it's been running like what you say then there should be something stored.
If he is seeing lots of white smoke when he is trying to start Action wouldn't that mean he is getting fuel?
X2 Rick
Sounds like something in the HPOP system.
Pressure testing and head isolation of the HPOP is needed to troubleshoot.
Rick should have a cut and paste
Bill
Yes I Do.... Here is what is needed to put a gauge together thanks to Swamps site.
If you don't have access to a scantool, then go to your local hydraulic supply
house, and have them make you up a mechanical gauge. You might spend $60
or so on high pressure hose, fittings, and a quality 0-3500psi liquid filled
gauge....but having this hose available for future diagnostics might be more
valuable than you think.
The hose which you will need will need to be about 40" long, rated for
(minimum) 3000psi working pressure (12k psi burst rating!) with the gauge on
one end, and a #6 female JIC swivel fitting crimped onto the other.
You will also need an individual fitting to screw into the head to go from the
head to the hose.
This single fitting will be a 90degree fitting # 5 "male boss" (sometimes called #
5 o-ring) on one end of the 90, and a # 6 male JIC on the other end of the 90.
Our local hydraulic shop would label such a fitting as 5MB-6MJ90
"JIC" is nothing special...it's just 'hydraulic talk' for a 37degree flare
fitting...standard hydraulic stuff here...nothing rare by any stretch.
Looking at the top of (either) cylinder head, you'll see the factory stainless
braided oil lines (one to each head) then you'll see a few bronze colored
plugs... (Engine off, of course) Using a 5/8" wrench, remove any one of the
bronze plugs, and install the 90deg fitting into the hole. (save the plug for
reinstallation , after testing). and the O-rings are reusable, unless brittle,
cracked, etc...
The single 90deg fitting will have a "jamb nut" on the O-ring side...screw the
fitting into the head, "aiming" the 90 away from the turbo, intercooler pipes,
etc...and then tighten the jamb nut, to "squish" the O-ring also locking the 90
from "spinning" around as you attach the swivel end of the hose to the 90. No
sealants, loctite, or teflon tape are needed on "JIC" or O-ring fittings...and
don't overtighten them...usually about 180degrees with a wrench past finger tight.