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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

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Old Mar 19, 2008 | 07:17 AM
  #16  
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FXDC4419
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Just for the record,and for those that maybe considering the use of Diamond Plate it is not to heavy and it does not make any notable difference in the stance of the truck. The original floor is quite thick as sheet metal goes making the weight difference minimal. Checkout my gallery to view the results. I respect your personal choice in this matter but just did not want anyone to get the wrong idea about using Diamond Plate in case they were considering it.

Bill T.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2008 | 02:28 PM
  #17  
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Flyn66dtmn
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hey Paul64, one question, what is easy grind wire. i also use a mig welder but have not heard of easy grind wire. Is it actually what it's called and does it weld easier than standard .11 wire. i have a bit of trouble with melting through and if this stuff works easier i would be very interested in getting some. Sorry JWIMME did not mean to hijack your post. also if you plan on trying to salvage a bed from the boneyard buy the whole box take it home and cut the crossmembers and all out and weld the whole works into yours. i spent last weekend removing the bed out of mine and it is almost impossible to salvage just the bed. mine was shot so it didn't matter how i removed it but by the time i was done i was convinced that i was not going to attemp such a project unless i had the whole box and tipped it upsidedown and cut everything away from the bed. this is just my opinion and maybe someone else knows how to do it faster and easier. Dutch
 
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Old Mar 19, 2008 | 06:19 PM
  #18  
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This subject (wood bed floors) is also being discussed on another site. I have been corresponding today via e-mail with Billy Banks of American Classic Trucks Bedwood who advertises on e-bay. He makes a wood bed kit for a Chevy Fleetside and he has agreed to fab up a bedkit for the 60's Styleside trucks. Will need to send him a pattern showing the location of the wheel wells and the exact dimensions. Cost will be similar to the Fleetside floor, which I believe is under $300. Think that is only for the wood and doesn't include the strips, fasterners, etc. If anyone else is interested send him an e-mail through his e-bay site, or PM me and I will give you his e-mail address. I can provide him dimensions and a pattern for a shortbed, but don't have access to a Uni or a Styleside longbed.
Here's a link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Oak-Bed-Wood-Chevy-Short-Truck-60-62-64-66-72-Fleetside_W0QQitemZ120234667676QQihZ002QQcategoryZ 42611QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
 
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Old Mar 19, 2008 | 06:59 PM
  #19  
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He only fabs the wood. The parts needed are the rear sill, head gate sill some crossmembers and some flanges around the inner fenders. These are the hard parts to fab, as I get into this I might try to build a kit but if the fab work is too hard I won't worry about making kits. I could Fab boards if I had the correct router bit for the bead detail on the edge of each board. It might be a few weeks before I start cutting up the bed, its time to streach the legs on the race car.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2008 | 07:13 PM
  #20  
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I put 1/4" steel plate in the back of my 65 stepside when I had it. Talk about an improved ride. It took most of the roughness out of it and gave me better traction on slick streets and ice. It was one heavy chunk of steel. Got it from a giant oil talk that was taken apart.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2008 | 09:20 PM
  #21  
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paul 64
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Dutch
i get my easygrind welding wire from a local welding and gas supplier here in Dallas
they sell it under the brand esab easygrind welding wire .it is a softer wire that a friend of mine in the auto body buz told me about he uses it because he can sand down welds rather then grind on outer body repairs. checked the internet {air gas}sells it on lineand there a pretty large chain there may be one close to you.i would give you a link but not that great at that stuff but you can google air gas it will come up. Paul
 
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Old Mar 19, 2008 | 10:48 PM
  #22  
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So as I understand it, the proposed wood bed kit would be to replace the standard steel floor. Or would it be something that would go over an existing floor. My steel bed isn't that bad but I have always liked the wood floors.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2008 | 07:59 AM
  #23  
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Flyn66dtmn
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From: Montana
The wood bed does sound intrigueing. the wood work part of it would be real easy for me as i build cabinets and have about $20,000 in tools .but i would prolly need some pics on the fabbing of the rails. thanks Paul i'm gonna persue Air gas thing. when i do the restore on my 66 4WD there is gonna be a bunch of welding to do on it has some serious cancer in some spots. Dutch
 
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Old Mar 20, 2008 | 09:16 AM
  #24  
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gritsngumbo
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Originally Posted by Major1095
So as I understand it, the proposed wood bed kit would be to replace the standard steel floor. Or would it be something that would go over an existing floor. My steel bed isn't that bad but I have always liked the wood floors.
I would put the wood floor over the existing steel floor. Mine isn't bad (I did put a plate in the front where it had rusted) but think the wood floor would look much better. Another option I had been considering is Bedrugs.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2008 | 01:44 PM
  #25  
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In my case I'm going to replace the steel floor with the wood floor, I do not want a space between the two to catch water and dirt which would cause more problems than I have now. And the edge will look more finished with the metal lip over the wood and a pocket at the back for the wood to recess into, this will make the real cross sill flush with the wood. If you layed the wood ontop of the orriginal steel floor you will see the end grain of the board sticking up at the back of the bed.
 
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Old Apr 6, 2008 | 01:30 PM
  #26  
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jwtimme

Since you said you were going with the wood check out this Bumpside SWB !



Hope this link helps!

1970 Ford Bed Photo


Wally Womack
 
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Old Apr 8, 2008 | 08:11 AM
  #27  
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66sprintw53
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That looks like one of Bruce Horkey's Show Decks.

Bruce Horkeys Wood And Parts Intro Page
 
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