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Lift blocks???

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  #1  
Old 03-14-2008, 09:02 PM
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Lift blocks???

What is the difference between a tapered lift bblock and a regular lift block? And are there pros and cons of each?

Thanks, DB
 
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Old 03-14-2008, 09:12 PM
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You use either one depending on the body style of your truck. I believe the shorter wheel base trucks (regular cab/long box and super cab/long box) use the tapered blocks while all others use the flat ones.
 
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Old 03-14-2008, 09:22 PM
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So it has nothing to do with how the blocks make the truck sit or ride? Just depends on which block fits ur model of truck
 
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Old 03-14-2008, 09:30 PM
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No it has nothing to do with that and ride height is determined by wether they were from an F250 or F350. F250 is 1 7/8" tall and F350 is 3 7/8" tall.
 
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Old 03-14-2008, 09:39 PM
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Well im looking at aftermarket blocks. Im getting a 6" lift so i will need 4" blocks, and i notice some say tapered and some say flat, so Ill have to make sure i get the right ones.
 
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Old 03-14-2008, 10:27 PM
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One piece driveshafts.....tapered block
Two piece driveshaft......flat block and a carrier bearing shim.


Only difference is that the tapered ones change the pinion angle and the flat ones do not.

Note* some custom two piece driveshafts that use a CV after the carrier bearing need a tapered block as well.
 
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Old 03-15-2008, 12:43 AM
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I used a tapered block and have some driveline shudder. I've read this is because the pinion angle is different from the transfer case output shaft. Using a flat block keeps them parallel and is the best configuration, is this correct?
 
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Old 03-15-2008, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by cartmanea
I used a tapered block and have some driveline shudder. I've read this is because the pinion angle is different from the transfer case output shaft. Using a flat block keeps them parallel and is the best configuration, is this correct?

Does your truck have a one piece rear driveshaft or a two piece rear driveshaft with a carrier bearing?

If it's a SC SWB, I think it has a one piece....SC LWB has a two piece.
 
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Old 03-15-2008, 11:52 AM
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Its the one in my sig, super cab, short box. It has a one piece driveshaft. Overkill suggested I replace my tranny mount with a 7.3 one since it has some play in it and he says the 7.3 tranny mount has better isolation.
 
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Old 03-15-2008, 06:42 PM
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Yep, if the angles are good on your driveshaft the 7.3 trans mount is much stiffer vs. the 6.0 one.
 
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Old 03-15-2008, 07:06 PM
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So should I switch from tapered blocks to flat blocks to get my pinion parallel with my transfer case shaft before I change tranny mounts? If the different tranny mount will just hide the problem I'd rather fix the source.
 
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Old 03-15-2008, 07:40 PM
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Is there a CV on the driveshaft by the t-case?
 
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Old 03-15-2008, 09:13 PM
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No there is not, if there were the pinion should be angled towards it, correct? Sorry I kinda hijacked this thread...
 
  #14  
Old 03-16-2008, 03:07 PM
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You are right on track, Cartmanea. If you have u-joints on both ends of the driveshaft, the total angle needs to be divided equally between the u-joints on each end of the shaft. If you have a CV on one end and a u-joint on the other, you want to try to minimize the angle in the u-joint (e.g. pointing the pinion up).

As the angle increases on a u-joint, it imparts a variation in the rotational speed of the shaft, twice in each revolution. A properly-phased u-joint on the other end, with the same angle, cancels this variation back out. So having the pinion and the TC output shafts parallel is ideal.
 
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