Probably my first post. The ABS light went on and I brought it in to a local "trusted" tire shop to look at. The are saying maybe the ABS sensor needs replaced but the front left calipher locked up and that the e-brake snapped and wrapped around the rear brakes.

I am not mechanically inclined but I am will to learn. They are claiming over $1100 to repair. And that, my friends, is not in the budget. I don't even use the e-brake, so I wouldn't know how that happened. They did the inspection on it last year and this wasn't an issue. At that time, brakes were low but with all the other stuff I had to have done, I couldn't afford it. Maybe, if I had, something would be different today.

If I need full rear, front and new e-brake, what is a good estimate of costs, both DYI and having the dealer do it.

Pete

 

$1100 sounds very high. Do you know if the front pads need replacing? A kit to rebuild the front caliper is $22/wheel, pads if needed another $40-50 total. Rear brakes are $40 for the shoes and a complete rear brake rebuild kit is $10/wheel. So that's about $150. What I don't know is if you need to replace the e-brake cable, but it would not be much. If the ABS sensor is the speed sensor then that is about $80. There are good instructions in the stickie section on the FTE Ranger home page.

 

thanks. I will look. And a friend just gave me the name of someone who does brake work cheap (not cheap brake work). I will explore my options.


Pete

 

Wheel speed sensor is a cheap part. There are 2 types of bas sensors used now. Ford use cheapper coil type sensors, as I remember its resistance is 700k-1200 Ohm. Yes, Mercedes use more reliable Hall effect sensors, but.... short to ground abs sensor wire may cause EBS Module failure...

What a code. ABS sensor have some codes like air sensor short to ground, short to +, broken line, air gap.

Well, about problem. Why sensors die? They are very close to pole ring (about 1mm). Sometimes when pads wear it touches pole ring and moves. when you install new pads you may have air gap more then 2 mm and have ABS codes, sand may damage abs sensor body and water coming inside slowly kill sensor, but usually we have ABS problems becouse of damaged line ore connector.

First inspect all, check sensors resistance with AVO-meter (connector in close), if it is corroded use WD-40 to clean all. It works and prevents corrodion. If all look well, try to connect avometer to sensor and rotate wheel with hands (relevant to 2 MPH speed). Volage on sensor should be ~0.6-1.8 v. Bent, damaged pole ring, caliper ore bearing play may cause ABS fault codes too. Having lower voltages decrease air gap. Having rattle check pole ring and replace if necessary...

BUT in 90% of ABS fault sensor is OK, but bad connector ore sensor wiering. Dealers do not repare wires replacing sensors (it has 2-5" wire with connector). That's why I have dozens of ABS sensors concidered bad, but with brocken wires.

It is funny, but I use to install old ABS sensors to Mercedes ore MAN big engines instead of stock cam pos sensors ore crank sensors.

 

Quation for gurus. I had to repare ABS wire on Ranger ones. the quation is what brand ABS is in Ranger.

There are not so many companies making ABS.
WABCO, Knorr-Bremse/Bendix, Bosch, Haldex.

Ranger has 3S/3M system (no wheel speed sensors on rear axe, only one modulator for rear axe).

Check it out: http://www.alldata.com/service_provi...00501212e.html

 

I also have a 2000 Ranger. Find someone with a obd II code reader or pick one up from the local tool shop for 40 bucks. see what the code is and cross reference in your repair manual. The ABS sensor is 17 bucks and is located above the differential where your driveshaft connects. Unplug and one bolt holds it in. Brakes are easy. Make sure the front pads are at least 1/8 inch thick and the rotors are smooth and not scared. Most people have their rotors turned, I replace mine. It's easier. Do the same with the rear and check the linings on the drums. Make sure there are no leaks from the front and rear calipers. Bleed the lines right rear, left rear right front left front in that order.

 

Ticker! Ranger ABS is 3S/3M.

There are 2 wheel speed sendors on front axe and one speed sensor for reae axe.

Having no scanner (not all scanners read abs codes) if is easy to check sensors with DVOM. First step - check all sensors resistanse (700-1200 ohm), check its woltage turning wheels (also check for correct air gap and pole ring wobble).

That is all. Modulators faile very rarelly. Usually brocken abs sensor line cause abs failure.

 

Mine is a 2000 3.0 V6 automatic. The ABS and speed sensor are one and there's only one and it's located on the rear differential. Where is it on the front?

 

One quation! There is ABS controll unit in your truck. It has 3 sensors. 2 for front axe (Pin 17-18 - LF, 3-4 LF, 18-19 - parallelly connected with VSS in rear diff, also connected to GEM). There are 3 unlocking actuators (also called modulators) in one unit under the hood and ABS unlocking pump (works when you press brake peadal only, unit knowa it with brake light switch).

Separate connector under the hood and measure resistans on 3-4 pins. You should have 700-1200 ohm. IT IS EASY! NO REASON TO PAY TO DEALER.



Yes, there wer RABS but so many years ago. My aero had RABS.

 

I fogot to look under hood of my ranger. Look at ABS module and read stiker. I need manufacter data (part number).

 

Buddy of mine worked on this for me. He replaced the rear pads, cylinders, drums (1 was gauged from where the e-brake got it), the e-brake and the front caliphers, front pads, rotors and master cylinder.

Brake still feels like mush and he thinks it is the anti-lock system (HCU). That he doesn't do, how much does Ford normally charge for this? Or can it be done by any garage?

Pete

 

About ABS strategy.

ABS knows all wheel speeds, vehicle speed. When you press brake pedal ABS turns pump on and if wheel speed immidiatly stops ABS with modulator valve decreases pressure till wheel start rotating valves opens increasing pressure till next wheel lock.

If wheels dont lock ABS does nothing (but when brake pedal is pressed pump is on and ABS is ready to work).

Ranger has 3s/3m system, it means, that Ranger 3 sensors (2 on front axe and VSS) and 3 modulating valves - 3 bracke channels.

When both the rear wheels stops ABS decreases pressure in its line.

BUT ABS STOPS WORKING when sped is lower then lower limit (usually 2-5MPH) and last foot wheels skids usually.

I'm not sure what brand is Ranger ABS, but seems to me ATE (F87A-2C219-AB) ore Bosch 3S/3M.

New Explores presented in Europe has Bosch 4S/4M ABS with brake assist (r) ore with ESP...
4S/4M has traction controll function. When one speed skids ABS applies brakes and works loke self lockind differential....

 

Brake is mushy. Pedal almost goes to the floor. I got all the parts and it looks like the dude got everything (pads, rotors, drums, etc) and replace everything. Total for complete brakes (front and rear) ran me about $525 (including his labor). It would have been more but because he can't get the mush out of it, he did not charge me full price (I have the list of parts and it comes to about $460).

What could be causing the soft peddle? Can you drive this without ABS? Just like in the old days?

Pete

 

If a new master cylinder was installed, did it get bench bled prior to installation? This needs to happen to get all the air out before installing and hooking up the lines.

Was the brake system bled properly after all was replaced? Start with the rear right, then the rear left, then the front right, then the front left until air is purged from the lines.

Did the rear brakes get adjusted properly? With rear wheels in the air, adjust the rear brake adjuster until wheel cant spin, then back off adjuster until wheel spins with minimal drag. Repeat on other side.

These things will cause mushy pedal. Get a Haynes or Chiltons manual and it will tell you how to check and do these things.

Air in your HCU could, but unlikely be the cause. If he removed it during you brake job (he shouldn't have), then yes it may be the problem.

I've been told but I have my doubts that if you drive down a gravel road and stomp on the brakes and cause an ABS event that it can get some of the air out of the HCU and into the lines and then bleed the brake system after that. I would personally not trust this method and just get it bled by someone with the HCU bleeding tools. If your ABS is non fuctioning then your like me and have an annoying ABS light on the dash. My issue is a bad ABS Module. I ain't paying for a new one, even from a wrecking yard.

I had a mushy pedal and it turned out to be a bad rear self adjuster. My pads on the left side never made contact with the drum. It made my vehicle pull to the right side when braking. I kept thinking it was my front brakes. After spending money on pads and calipers I found in a forum that rear brakes can cause pull. All better now.

Without ABS working it will brake like there is no ABS. Just like the old days.

 

Every brake system with ABS has its bleeding procedure. Ignition must be off. For example WABCO ABS for light and medium duty trucks has additional bleeding nossels on modulators, not only on bracke cylinders/calipers.

Check brake hoses also and try to find a place where air comes in system. Ususally it is MC ore modulator.