Well its been awhile from hearing from me but well im still driving my Bronco II and found a toy 70 mach 1 mustang, i want to build a motor for it im thinking of a 400 with 351C 4V heads how does that sound? tons of tourqe and power, i still rember the "oiling problem" of the M-blocks would the high volume pump be enough or would i need the oil restrictors? big healthy cam in it high rise single plane manifold, what do you guys think chevy killing power? any suggestions?

Thanks
Curtis
77_F150_4x4 aka "The BeAsT"
85 Bronco II XLT 2.8L 4x4 auto

 

If you going to run any kind of HP out of a 335 series a restrictor kit is Mandatory (in my book)! The low in is starved on 335's. Usually the #4 and 5 main takes a beating. Adding a restrictor kit really improve's the longevity and durability of this engine.

Also, to equalize the pressure throughout a 335 series you'd want to port off the Hi pressure side of oil system. There is a Hex Plug next to the fuel pump that provides good pressure throughout . Just tap off that port and to the Oil sending port behind intake manifold. Just use a Tee off the Oil Sending unit and you can still utilize a gauge for monitoring oil pressure.

There is a company that makes a kit for this mod. Complete with braided hose's and A/N fittings. This kit also includes the restrictor kit and HV oil pump.

The name of the Company is MPG Head Service, Inc. If you want to know anything about Clevelands give them a call. The kit is 135 bucks. I'd give them a call. There # is (303) 762-8196

They could also answer your other questions.

good luck,
Xaviar

 

[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 13-Jun-01 AT 12:38 PM (EST)[/font][p]Curtis and Xaviar,

The problem with tapping into that front oil gallery plug is that it bypasses the oil filter, so you send unfiltered oil to the rear mains. In a race-only application where the engine is torn down frequently, that may be acceptable, but in a street-driven vehicle where you might expect 100K+ miles of longevity, I don't think it's a good idea.

For a 335-series (351C/351M/400) external oil line, I recommend using a remote filter adapter that allows you to tap into the filter output, then run that back to the oil pressure sending unit port. Using the filter adapter, you provide high pressure, filtered oil to the rear mains, which will help assure long-term durability.

You can get the Moroso (Roush-designed) restrictor kit for about $10, the filter adapter/relocation kit for about $35, extra oil line and fittings for $20 (or less), and a Melling HV pump for under $30. That's a better deal than the MPG kit, plus you get filtered oil to the rear mains, and you can relocate the filter for ease of access, too.

As for putting the 400 in a 1970 Mustang, you'll have to custom fab some engine mount towers, since the 400 engine mounts are different from the 351C mounts. You'll probably have to modify the transmission support crossmember as well.

BubbaF250

1980 F250 4x4 Custom, 351M/NP435/NP208/D44HD-TTB/D60-FF/3.55s 6750 GVW, Rust & White.

 

[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 13-Jun-01 AT 02:27 PM (EST)[/font][p]Thanks Bubba,Xaviar
Well hmm about using a 400 i know there would be alot of tourqe with it but would it be possible to run 4-bolt mains, or a main girdle? i dont want to see it go snap if im racing it down the strip or something like that.
If that isnt possible how about making a 351C accept the 400crank?
any othing else? what do you guys think?
About the oiling good point thanks for the help it will most definalty get a relocation kit.

Thanks
Curtis
77_F150_4x4 aka "The BeAsT"
85 Bronco II XLT 2.8L 4x4 auto

 

Hey Dave,
While I don't think there's anything wrong with going for the remote filter deal I don't think it's all that necessary either. All of the oil in the engine is filtered sooner or later. The fact that you're sending oil that may not have been filtered as recently to the rear mains isn't a big deal. Bypass filtration where only a portion of the oil passes through a filter while the rest bypasses into the pan has been around for years on big high mileage diesel engines and they go for hundreds of thousands of miles between tear downs.

 

Bill,

I don't disagree strongly with you, but the M-block (and most other light-duty SI engines) was not designed for bypass filtration. Maybe it won't hurt too much, but if you're going to drop the coin to rebuild a street engine for serious performance, longevity has to be a concern.

IMHO, a lot of hi-po mods that don't show much performance benefit below high rpm (where an M-block in a street vehicle will spend most of its operating life) are really worthwhile more for longevity benefits than for performance enhancement. A good example of this is roller rockers, which reduce wear on most of the rest of the valve train components, especially the valve stems and valve guides.

BubbaF250

 

You guy's got me thinking about my built 400. I've been told by two different engine building machine shops not to use the restrictors even in a Cleveland unless you want to go over 6,000rpm and run a solid cam (solid cams don't need as much oil as hydralics) so I didn't use them. I'm running a hdydralick roller with roller rockers. Too late to consider restrictors anymore but where can I learn more about the extra line? Does it help the rear mains? Would it reduce oil accumulation in the valve covers? I'm always looking for tricks to extend a hipo engines life.

1977 Ford F-100
400m/c6
280,000 miles
Stock on the outside
modified/rebuilt everything