Thanks Brandon. I appreciate the wish to help.

I did a test a few minutes ago. I thought that I heard the relay click. Maybe it is just my imagination. I am just leary at the moment. I have been driving back and forth to Illinois for the past few months and at this time, I am scared to take it out of the county. That hard start at 18 degrees really got me. That is the first major problem that the truck has given me.

 

Did you check the wiring harness on the outside of the drivers side valve cover to make sure it's not chaffing against the cover? Are the dash lights functioning normally? The oil temp sensor should have a default reading also if it is out of range. Here's some info from the manual for you.

Signal Functions
The engine oil temperature (EOT) sensor is a thermistor type sensor that has a variable resistance that changes when exposed to different temperatures. When interfaced with the powertrain control module (PCM), it produces a 0 to 5 volt analog signal that will deduce temperature.
Cranking Fuel Quantity/Timing Control — The EOT sensor signal is used to determine the timing and quantity of fuel required to optimize starting over all temperature conditions.

Idle Speed — At oil temperatures below 70°C (158°F) low idle is incrementally increased to a maximum of 950 rpm.
Temperature Compensation — Fuel quantity and timing is controlled throughout the total operating range to ensure adequate torque and power is available.

Glow Plug Control — The glow plug relay (federal) or Glow Plug Control Module (GPCM) (California) and lamp ON times are controlled by engine oil temperature.

Detection/Management
An EOT sensor signal that is detected out of range (high or low) by the PCM will cause the PCM to ignore the EOT sensor signal and assume an engine oil temperature of -20°C (-4°F) for starting and a temperature of 100°C (212°F) for engine-running conditions. The CHECK ENGINE light will also be illuminated as long as the condition exists.


Chart 7

Lack/Loss Of Power
Runs Rough
Misses
Buck/Jerk
Hesitation/Stumble
Surge
Additional Driveability Concerns: Poor Fuel Economy

Note: Perform the following preliminary checks:

Confirm brakes are not dragging.
Confirm transmission and axle fluid levels.
Confirm transmission and axle tube are not "cooked".
Check for oil in coolant.
Check engine oil level.
Confirm oil change within 8,046.5 km (5,000 miles).
Check air intake system: Air Filter Minder.
Check MAP sensor hose for holes, blockage, or disconnection.
Check intake manifold system for leaks.
Confirm acceptable SAE oil viscosity and API rating of oil.
Check for sufficient clean fuel.
Check for intake restriction.
Compare loaded weight of vehicle with performance expectations

 

Thanks for the reply F350. All items in Chart 7 have been done. No problems are there. The truck will get about 18 mpg if I keep my foot out of it. There is just no power in OD, actually it won't even bark the tires, through the first lower gears like it used to.

Before this problem, I did replace the BP sensor in front of the fuel bowl. The sensor set a code. The tube was completely blocked and so was the sensor (terrible idea from IH). Also, the CPS was replaced (Ford Warranty) under my eye to keep them away from the upgrade they wanted to install to the ECM. The truck has new fuel filter and oil just changed with with Motorcraft Syn. The AIS II air filter has also been replaced.

I am just wondering if the EOT has failed and this is what is causing the GP problem. Your list says it will set the SES light. I don't have that. When the GPR was replaced, the mech has to trip (unplug) the EOT to test the new GPR.

Also, my low idle ramp up speed is at 1200 when cold. Your list says 950. It has always did that. When I did get it started, it did not take it long and it was there.

I guess you can tell, I am puzzled big time about this.

ON EDIT: All wiring looks OK. No chafing, nothing appears to be unplugged.

 

The more I think about it, the more I am pointing a finger at Brandon's comment about the harnesses. That 7.3 should break my neck getting to 80 mph. It won't. It is actually sick as hell getting there.

 

I think mine high idles around 1100 rpms. It's gonna be 90 tomorrow so I can't verify that for you. The list also says that a bad EOT should default the PCM into a -4 deg setting so glow plugs shouldn't be a starting issue, and a warm engine temp of 212 so that doesn't explain the low power issue.

Next time it's cold try jumping the GPR with a screwdriver to see if that aids in the warm start. I'll go look through the manual and see if I can come up with something else.

Is the lack of power still a smooth running engine? What rpm's were you shifting at to chirp the tires? Have you not seen the fuel prices lately?

Edit: It also bothers me that this happened after replacing the EBP sensor.

 

It would chirp the tires short shifting it at 2,200. The engine is running fairly smooth, but does have a little shake, but it has always had that. I think tonight, I am going to do something that just crossed my mind. Unhood the battery cables overnight and let it go completely dead. I did that to the Tang when it was acting crazy and it straightened up. Maybe I need to drain it's mind.

Yeah, Fuel hit $4.29 here today. What a price for for a byproduct of gasoline with a few addiditves. Glad I don't have to buy it.

 

I don't think I've ever chirped my tires at 2200. Maybe you just have good rubber now.

The computer reboot sounds like a good idea. Won't hurt anything other than your radio presets. Loose/damaged UVCH usually results in a rough running engine. If you're worried about that can you do the OHM test on the plug pins?

 

I will retest the OHM Pins. I should be able to do that by myself. Thanks for your help.

 

If you can't get the OHM test done let me know and I'll see what else I can dig up. It's almost as hard to do the OHM test as it is to remove the valve covers (at least for me).

I'll throw out a different possibility on the low power that I know nothing about. Could it be winter fuel causing the low power? We don't use that down here, but winter fuel with the new ULSD may be a factor.

 

The Fuel may be the cause too. I noticed a difference when I bought some 500+ in Indiana a few weeks back. Might try a tank of off road and see if that helps. I can buy it an pay the taxes straight from the distributor and get a receipt to keep the feds off my butt.

I unhooked the batteries. Killed the poor girl. Did find something weird. The right battery negative terminal was loose. I don't know if that might have been the problem all along.

 

I've seen corroded battery cables at the engine ground cause a no start so there's a good possibility you found your problem.

Again I don't know about fuel in your area, but off road fuel just means dye added and no taxes. It still might be winter grade ULSD. You're best bet would probably be the freshest fuel you can find. That won't be easy to do since the truck stops will probably carry the winter grade a little longer for the folks traveling up north.

 

I did the battery unhook overnight. After cleaning them and tightening them down tight, It appears that the little engine vibration is now gone. The truck seems to run smoother, but I have not took it out of town yet. Still leery of it. I did go over to the shop that installed the batteries a little over a month ago and chewed a little butt. There is no sense for sloppy installation. The Ford mechanic said that there is a possibility that the loose connections may have burned the GPR out. I voiced this to the battery installer. We will see. He did call me back this evening but I missed the call.

 

I hope that is the cure for your truck.It seems I read on this board,alot of problems resulting from loose battery connections.Every time there is a post with a mis or hard start someone always replies to "check the bats".I read it and say yea yea.Check the connections,whatever.But I have changed my tune now.I think these trucks in particular are very electrically dependent.And that is and will always be my first check now.Anyway hope its all fixed.I'm done babbling