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Big "P" Button on the dash

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Old Mar 9, 2008 | 12:59 PM
  #16  
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RickF350
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From: Richland, WA
Originally Posted by jhrobert
The door switches are working properly. I wonder now what the problem is why the dome light will not shut off?
Have you checked the switch on the dash?
 
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Old Mar 9, 2008 | 01:04 PM
  #17  
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From: Central Ma.
Originally Posted by RickF350
Have you checked the switch on the dash?
I did check that too. It is not on. I'm going to pull it out in a minute and try disconnecting it. Lunch break.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2008 | 03:37 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by jhrobert
I did check that too. It is not on. I'm going to pull it out in a minute and try disconnecting it. Lunch break.
It's not the door switches or the dimmer switch that is causing the domelight to stay on. The lights do go off if I trun the key to Acc. or to the On posititon.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2008 | 07:22 PM
  #19  
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From: Richland, WA
Originally Posted by jhrobert
It's not the door switches or the dimmer switch that is causing the domelight to stay on. The lights do go off if I trun the key to Acc. or to the On posititon.
That is how the light works. However, it should also turn off after x amount of time once the key is removed. Furthermore, if you lock the truck with the fob the light will turn off immediately.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2008 | 07:34 PM
  #20  
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From: Central Ma.
Originally Posted by RickF350
That is how the light works. However, it should also turn off after x amount of time once the key is removed. Furthermore, if you lock the truck with the fob the light will turn off immediately.
I don't have the remote locking system on this truck. I want to say the door lights stay on for about 10 minutes after the doors are locked. Right now I have the dome light removed. I should say, it was removed when I bought the truck. The problem could be the timer relay for the interior lights. I am supposed to pick up a complete set of Ford repair manuals for this truck tomorrow night. Maybe then I can figure out a few of these problems. I think I have the P0304 P0316 codes fixed. Number 4 spark plug was misfiring when cold at startup and would clear up within 20 seconds. Today I took the plugs out of the right side bank and replaced them. Number 4 had a broken spark plug boot at the coil. The coil popped right off of it and the side had a rip in it about half way down. I replaced the coil and boot. The truck did not skip when I started it up afterwards. I'll know for sure tomorrow morning if that cured it or not. If that doesn't fix it I will replace the #4 injector.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2008 | 07:46 PM
  #21  
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From: Richland, WA
Yeah, 10 min. is too long. I just checked mine and it is only on for about 30 seconds after locking the truck.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2008 | 07:52 PM
  #22  
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The 10 minutes is the battery saver turning it off. It should be off long before that when it works correctly.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2008 | 09:41 PM
  #23  
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From: Central Ma.
Originally Posted by RickF350
Yeah, 10 min. is too long. I just checked mine and it is only on for about 30 seconds after locking the truck.
Thanks, That is kinda what I figured. I think the relay may be sticking or something else is bad. I'll find the culrip sooner or later.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2008 | 09:46 PM
  #24  
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damn! I thought the "P" button was for my "Phaser", I always used it when there's someone doing 50mph in the fast lane, they'd move but I had to get right up on them, thought it was just the "Phaser" needing to be boresighted!
 
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Old Mar 9, 2008 | 09:57 PM
  #25  
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From: Central Ma.
Originally Posted by rotun
damn! I thought the "P" button was for my "Phaser", I always used it when there's someone doing 50mph in the fast lane, they'd move but I had to get right up on them, thought it was just the "Phaser" needing to be boresighted!
I wish it would operate a set of rear mounted rocket launchers for tailgaters. A set of straight pipes with flamethrowers would be a good cure for tailgaters too.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2008 | 09:12 AM
  #26  
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Someone beat me to the back bumper this morning. I called the auto wrecker early this morning to find out about the bumper. Someone was waiting for them to open up this morning to buy it. I sure hope they didn't hear about that bumper from my post here and started a search for one.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2008 | 09:21 AM
  #27  
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Bummer Dude....

Are you around Springfield? It might be worth a drive up the Mass Pike to the burbs of Boston.

Joe
 
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Old Mar 10, 2008 | 09:26 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by msgtg
Bummer Dude....

Are you around Springfield? It might be worth a drive up the Mass Pike to the burbs of Boston.

Joe
I'm near Worcester. A trip to Boston is not a problem for the right price. The one I just missed was in RI.
 
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Old Mar 12, 2008 | 05:07 PM
  #29  
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From: Central Ma.
Yesterday my Door Ajar light mysteriously shut off. I already had freed up the switches and checked both of them to make sure they worked. I wonder if that stupid ground wire on the ignition switch had anything to do with it. That also had fallen off because the dealer's mechanic had tried to fix the directionals and straighten out the steering wheel. I put the wire back in place. Now my dome lights go off as they should. Electronics are great when they work.

Now for the transmission update. I stopped at two shops today to have them look at my truck. There are no codes to be had. I have a mechanical issue inside the tranny. First guy says it need s rebuild. Second guy says that I have a spring boken in my vavle body or a seal gone on the clutch piston. He also stated that I should have it rebuilt. So I find a used tranny today with 39K on it for cheap money. I go to pick it up and the converter has rust on the seal area from being stored off the tranny. No way am I taking that one. The owner offers me a brand new rebuilt converter from a local tranny shop. Ok, I can go for that since they cost over $300. This tranny guy and I get to talking about my truck and tranny woes. He told me I have a broken 1-2 shift valve spring in the valve body. He says Ford's are known to have these problems. I told him I was going to tear the tranny down to rebuild it for a spare. He said that while I'm at it to replace all the springs and check ***** as the ***** are rubber. With two out of three experts diagnosing my problem as being a simple return spring on the number 1-2 shift valve makes me almost want to just change the spring. But with 125K on the truck and boating season coming up I will swap out the tranny tomorrow and rebuild the old one for future use if needed. I plan on keeping this truck for a long long time. I do not drive my truck a lot so the mileage will stay down on it as the years go by. In the last 26 months I only put 15K on my old truck. That truck was used a lot more often as I didn't have a second car to drive at the time. Now I have a car and my motorcycle for nice days.
 
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