Motorcraft Carb
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More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 713
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From: Augusta.GA
Motorcraft Carb
Hope I'm posting in right place... I've got a 1979 F-250 with a now running (thanks to help here) 351m. I'm getting very rough idle with multiple stalls when putting it in gear. Runs out to 65 mph without noticeable hesitation once I get past the low speeds. I suspect a vacuum leak which I'm trying to find, maybe brake booster (not working). Question is, I've had a few backfires and read that will kill something quick in the carb. Will this apply to my motorcraft 9T alb c8g21 and otherwise need help finding the leaks etc.
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Joined: Sep 1999
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From: Indiana
Motorcraft Carb
crawlfish, Has your truck been setting not running? You might want to consider a thourough cleaning and rebuilding of the carburetor. Those old Motorcraft 2 bbl's are easy to work on. Could be plugged or dirty jets, accellerator pump bad, power valve bad,(enrichment valve) The power valve is what you are talking about damaging with the backfiring. I don't know if the Motorcraft's are as sensitive to that as the Holley's.
More Turbo
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 655
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Motorcraft Carb
Looking for that annoying vacuam leak? Well I am going to suggest a somewhat dangerous method so be real careful if you decide to try it.
Get a high quality Carb cleaner that IS flammable. We are not talking the "environmentally safe" ones. Start the engine at an idle and spray each vacuam connection, the carb base, and any are you suspect a leak. If the engine idles up at any point that is where your vacuam leak is.
You would be amazed how effective this is on in-line 6 cylinder manifolds too.
Just remember you are spraying a flammable liquid so be careful. In addition I agree that you might consider a carb re-build. The kits are very inexspensive and it is a fairly easy job.
Happy Holidays.
Bob
Get a high quality Carb cleaner that IS flammable. We are not talking the "environmentally safe" ones. Start the engine at an idle and spray each vacuam connection, the carb base, and any are you suspect a leak. If the engine idles up at any point that is where your vacuam leak is.
You would be amazed how effective this is on in-line 6 cylinder manifolds too.
Just remember you are spraying a flammable liquid so be careful. In addition I agree that you might consider a carb re-build. The kits are very inexspensive and it is a fairly easy job.
Happy Holidays.
Bob
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More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2001
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From: Augusta.GA
Motorcraft Carb
Thanks, yes it's been sitting for maybe two years. After reading your reply, Superdave, and Bob's, I'm encouraged to try the rebuild. This will be my first on a 2bbl. I suppose the kit will come with everything I need...
Also, I've given thought to using the starter fluid for help in finding vacuum leaks... I appreciate the safety heads-up, that's always appreciated. I'll have the fire extinguisher out and accessible.
Merry Christmas!
Also, I've given thought to using the starter fluid for help in finding vacuum leaks... I appreciate the safety heads-up, that's always appreciated. I'll have the fire extinguisher out and accessible.
Merry Christmas!
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Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 2,297
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From: Indiana
Motorcraft Carb
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 09-Dec-01 AT 11:57 PM (EST)]crawlfish, Do not use starting fluid to find a vacuum leak. That stuff is a little too flammable! I have used WD-40 to find them. I tend to think a re-build will line you out. Not re-built a carb before? Not a problem, just take your time, read the instructions a couple times and look at the exploded view of the carburetor till it all looks familiar as it comes apart. I use brake parts cleaner and compressed air to clean them up. The parts cleaner will work pretty good if you have no access to air. Just make sure all the holes you spray in, that it comes out somewhere else. When you see where it comes out at, back spray through it. Pull the jets out to clean under them if you can get them out with out damaging anything. Use a big flat blade screwdriver on them and hold it firmly so it does not slip. Replace the float also.
Good luck!
Good luck!
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More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 713
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From: Augusta.GA
Motorcraft Carb
Thanks for the correction, I did mean carb spray cleaner, not starter fluid. I've got the thing out, took several photos. I'll be able to access the vacuum lines better too, with the carb out of the way. I bought two gallons of the cleaning fluid with baskets, and a 6 quart cooking pot to put it in since it looks to be bigger than the gallon size. I will remove the solenoids, needles and seats, and anything with screws. I brought my air compressor so I'll have it too. I've never attached photos here, but suppose it's possible? Sorry for the long post, but I have many questions before I begin to get familiar with function and purpose, as you recommended. How do I know if these components are functioning? See attached (hopefully)
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More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2001
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From: Augusta.GA
Motorcraft Carb
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 10-Dec-01 AT 05:28 AM (EST)]correction: Help on posting photos as an aid to discussion?
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More Turbo
Joined: May 2000
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Motorcraft Carb
Hey Superdave......Thanks for adding the WD-40 suggestion. I totally forgot about using that stuff and suggested carb cleaner. I agree starting fluid should not be used.
Dam I hate brain cramps thanks again.
Happy Holidays.
Bob
Dam I hate brain cramps thanks again.
Happy Holidays.
Bob
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More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 713
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From: Augusta.GA
Motorcraft Carb
Hey Guys, thanks again. I'm going to begin taking the carb apart this evening, and will take a few snapshots to use along with the kit's schematic. I do need to ask about the electric components though. One was found disconnected, others appear rough so I'd like to know how to tell if their functioning. Is it possible to post pictures? I've looked up to see if possible, but could use some help.
F-250 Camper Special,
351M, 5.8L
Dana 61 ??
Yellow Jacket
It must be good 'cause my wife hates it!
F-250 Camper Special,
351M, 5.8L
Dana 61 ??
Yellow Jacket
It must be good 'cause my wife hates it!
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