Headlights Stopped Working
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Freshman User
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Headlights Stopped Working
Hey fellas~
I went out to my '66 this morning and the headlights stopped working. The running lights work and the taillights work, so I do not know what is going on! I would love some tips on this if ya got them!
Killer
I went out to my '66 this morning and the headlights stopped working. The running lights work and the taillights work, so I do not know what is going on! I would love some tips on this if ya got them!
Killer
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 4,375
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From: seattle
I had a similar thing happen a cpl yrs ago on my 65...2 things I noticed, corrected and fixed the problem.
First, the rheostat was bad..its the coil spring you see which controls the brightness of the dash lights and can also make the dome light non functioning too as when its turned to the far side it turns it on...
The second, at least in my case, was a switch that wasnt totally tight to the dash...
I just swapped out the switch and made sure it was plenty tight on the dash and problem disappeared.
Hope this helps, cs65
First, the rheostat was bad..its the coil spring you see which controls the brightness of the dash lights and can also make the dome light non functioning too as when its turned to the far side it turns it on...
The second, at least in my case, was a switch that wasnt totally tight to the dash...
I just swapped out the switch and made sure it was plenty tight on the dash and problem disappeared.
Hope this helps, cs65
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,305
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From: Boulder Creek, Ca
May try hitting the hi/lo beam switch and see if anything happens. Had a simular problem and found highlights worked fine in lo position, replaced hi/lo switch and solved the problem. Also, if bulbs are burned out may mean faulty alternator volt regulator. As already mentioned, possibly a faulty switch. When it comes to the electrical sys. I have found in many cases problem due to a poor gound. Suggest clean ground surfaces and make sure gounds are secure, this includes battery connections. I used dielectric grease in all the connectors, connections, and at gound strap locations, added couple extra ground straps while at it. Anyhow, had an urge to chime in.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 7,191
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From: Blairsville,Ga
Originally Posted by camperspecial65
Mine did same thing also...lights came on and off...a real annoyance at night...I didnt have to mess with the dimmer switch but did check to make sure it was plugged in well and so on.
- cs65
- cs65
Postmaster
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From: seattle
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Elder User
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From: East Helena MT
You might want to check your grounds as well as those can give you fits with a lot of electrical connections.
Jeff
Jeff
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Hey Dave~
Thanks for the advice about the hi/low beam switch. It must not be working becuase they lights work on high, but not low. Anyway, I guess I will need to buy a new switch and figure out the instillation when I get the part. It was pitch black here already, so I cannot tell how to go about the project until daylight.
Killer
Thanks for the advice about the hi/low beam switch. It must not be working becuase they lights work on high, but not low. Anyway, I guess I will need to buy a new switch and figure out the instillation when I get the part. It was pitch black here already, so I cannot tell how to go about the project until daylight.
Killer
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,305
Likes: 18
From: Boulder Creek, Ca
Killer, that's good news, when it comes to trying to solve electrical problems some times just get lucky, hopefully solves the problem. Before replacing you might want to operate the switch and if you can hear what sounds like the switch is working, for lack of better word, a clicking sound. If so, then try cleaning the female connector on the wire harness, and the male pins on the switch, or visa versa, can't remember which. Believe it can be done from inside the cab. If it fixes the problem, suggest check with local part supplier and replace when time permits. May want to pick up a small tube of dielectric grease and dab small amount to the switch and connector. If the switch has to be replace, there should be couple nuts on the underside upper part of the floor pan. I would probably plug the connector to the replacement switch, might have to use a wire to ground the switch and test to see if problem resolved that way if it does not fix it and you have been careful not to mar the switch you should be able to return it.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 4,375
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From: seattle
In case you have never replaced a light switch its pretty easy...undo the battery for starters...pull the switch like the headlight were on. Reach under the dash for the switch itself and feel for the little spring/button and press then pull out the ****. If you have a new switch in hand you wil see how it goes.
Unscrew the nut on the dash side with a straightslot screwdriver and lower the switch out from under. It may have an extra U shaped spacer between the switch itself and the dash...if so note which way it was up there before...the open end goes towards the back of the dash but theres a notch on it I think and one on the switch locating them on each other.
unplug old switch noting the shape of the rheostat...its prolly halfways decent, but on mine it looked terrible...and the dash lights still worked...dunno how as the spring was sprung part ways and quite green with oxidation.
Plug new one in and reverse removal procedure. take a look in the switch before you put the **** back in so you can line up the triangular shape somewhat in the hole so it will go it right.
let us know how it turns out, cs65
Unscrew the nut on the dash side with a straightslot screwdriver and lower the switch out from under. It may have an extra U shaped spacer between the switch itself and the dash...if so note which way it was up there before...the open end goes towards the back of the dash but theres a notch on it I think and one on the switch locating them on each other.
unplug old switch noting the shape of the rheostat...its prolly halfways decent, but on mine it looked terrible...and the dash lights still worked...dunno how as the spring was sprung part ways and quite green with oxidation.
Plug new one in and reverse removal procedure. take a look in the switch before you put the **** back in so you can line up the triangular shape somewhat in the hole so it will go it right.
let us know how it turns out, cs65
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,305
Likes: 18
From: Boulder Creek, Ca
cs65, could it be the switch if the lights work in 1 position, in killer's case, the high beam position, and not in the other. I don't know and just wondering. As noted, I had simular problem and seem to recall replacing the hi/lo switch, perhaps another case of just getting lucky.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
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From: Simi Valley, CA
C0TZ-13A024-A .. Dimmer Switch (Motorcraft SW-263)
C5TZ-11654-A .. Headlamp Switch (Motorcraft SW-439)
Take your old headlamp switch with you to the parts store to make sure you get the correct one.
There are three different headlamp switches used 1965/66, but only one is for F100/350's. The two others were used on F500 and larger trucks.
C5TZ-11654-A .. Headlamp Switch (Motorcraft SW-439)
Take your old headlamp switch with you to the parts store to make sure you get the correct one.
There are three different headlamp switches used 1965/66, but only one is for F100/350's. The two others were used on F500 and larger trucks.
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Freshman User
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Hey fellas~
I FINALLY got around to changing the hi/low switch in the '66, but alas that did not fix the problem. I am now back to square one and would LOVE some advice form you guys. Thanks a bunch. I came inside tonight and told my dad about how the new switch did not fix ther problem and my dads first words were "Better get on the board and ask the fellas to give ya some advice..." Thanks a bunch guys for all your help. Maybe one day I will start to be able to give back advice you guys have given me. You guys are teaching the future of Slick owners, right? thanks!
KILLER
I FINALLY got around to changing the hi/low switch in the '66, but alas that did not fix the problem. I am now back to square one and would LOVE some advice form you guys. Thanks a bunch. I came inside tonight and told my dad about how the new switch did not fix ther problem and my dads first words were "Better get on the board and ask the fellas to give ya some advice..." Thanks a bunch guys for all your help. Maybe one day I will start to be able to give back advice you guys have given me. You guys are teaching the future of Slick owners, right? thanks!
KILLER
