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still sounds like a bad injector to me!ive been through 3 of them and just replaced the rest of them with new ones!that horrible knock is what i always got when i had a bad one!thats your injector over fueling!jmo
Move the 2 and 4 to 6 and 8, basically swap and see if it follows. DIY, there are no parts to replace unless there is a cut oring.
another thing that works is pull that valve cover off and start your engine,then one at a time unplug each injector till the one u unplug stops the knocking.than u know that one is bad!
another thing that works is pull that valve cover off and start your engine,then one at a time unplug each injector till the one u unplug stops the knocking.than u know that one is bad!
Just to make sure I'm not stupid...I'd have to pull the cover, unplug one injector...then put the cover back on (not fully but just a couple of bolts) then crank it over and fire it up. Is this right?
Just to make sure I'm not stupid...I'd have to pull the cover, unplug one injector...then put the cover back on (not fully but just a couple of bolts) then crank it over and fire it up. Is this right?
NO leave your valve cover off while engine is running!your not gona hurt anything are lose any oil! give it a try!
Well fellas.....strike 3 (or is that 33?) Anyway....new alliant injector in #2 hole. One small problem. I'm going to take a wild stab in the dark that I should not see green coolant on the tip of the pulled injector....and a teaspoon or so of the same down in the hole. I assume this means cracked fuel cup/sleeve or whatever. Before I make the decision whether to burn the truck or simply lose it, I wanted to know a) is this the 'real' issue with that #2 hole causing the rod knock regardless of new or really new injector .....b) what is the fix for this.....c) anyone got a drink handy?
Well...I'm officially at wits end. My knocking sound at this point is not an injector and not push rods. I did get the leaking injector cup replaced. The shop says that the knocking is from #4 and is on the bottom end (not push rods or rocker arms). They say it sounds like cylinder skirt (mechanic was gone but service tech told me that). I'm at a crossroads...what to do. They say motor has to be pulled to resolve this one. Do I a) drive until it goes (how long would it last like this?)....b) replace engine with rebuilt / drop-in engine....c) get rid of my troubled truck (very tempting) ?
Do I a) drive until it goes (how long would it last like this?)....b) replace engine with rebuilt / drop-in engine....c) get rid of my troubled truck (very tempting) ?
If you get rid of the "troubled" truck, will you have to go buy another one to replace this one?
Do the math, it costs less to fix what you have if it has no other issues and then you know what you have.
Buying another used truck is just buying someone elses problem.
Buying a new one is 10x as much.
Right now the least expensive option is to put a motor into it.
I know that thought sucks, but do the math.
Thanks Dan....you are right about the math. I wouldn't get a new 6.4 but would consider getting a new 150. I think I'm done with anything used...this is my 2nd attempt at that.
Next question...if I were to go with a rebuilt...where to get it? I've seen a few online but want to get one from someone with a solid rep. Other than ATS shroud, new orings for turbo and new IC / spider boots...anything else I should factor in while I'm at it. I want to take the total cost and total job size into account.
Well...I'm officially at wits end. My knocking sound at this point is not an injector and not push rods. I did get the leaking injector cup replaced. The shop says that the knocking is from #4 and is on the bottom end (not push rods or rocker arms). They say it sounds like cylinder skirt (mechanic was gone but service tech told me that). I'm at a crossroads...what to do.
Did they try running a compression check on it Allen? How did they arrive at #4 cylinder skirt?
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