Brake Woes?!?
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 973
Likes: 0
From: Gatineau, Quebec
On this topic.....I had front brake line pop from age a few months back.....luckily I was sitting at a red light when it happened. I was able to drive slowly with very limited braking for a few more blocks to get where I was going. The brake pedal did go all the way to the floor though. It was able to stop me, but I would not go over about 20 mph and kept lots of room to brake.
Not sure if this confirms any theories..but thought I would post my experience.
Not sure if this confirms any theories..but thought I would post my experience.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 19,402
Likes: 38
From: Bonita Springs FL
Well, I haven't actually tried driving around with a bleeder open, I imagine that would be an interesting experience. 
However, my brake system works fine in my truck, my Bronco, and the car (Honda civic). There are no problems, I inspect them all regularly. If I open a bleeder, the pedal goes to the floor.
However, my brake system works fine in my truck, my Bronco, and the car (Honda civic). There are no problems, I inspect them all regularly. If I open a bleeder, the pedal goes to the floor.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 418
Likes: 0
From: Quad Cities, IA
When my Camaro blew out a rear brake line, I lost about 90% of my stopping power. I will agree with the post that there will still be *some* stopping ability, but it's so little that most people would automatically feel (subconciously, I guess) that there's no pedal at all.
It did *feel* like it went to the floor, but I could still make it stop if I pushed it all the way down in that condition, enough to limp it to a place I could park. I got out and grabbed a pair of Vice Grips, cut the broken line (just in front of the break) and crimped it down real tight. That gave me enough brakes to make it home. (doing it like that gave me about 75% of my stopping power, which makes sense since I was missing one of my four wheel's brakes...)
It did *feel* like it went to the floor, but I could still make it stop if I pushed it all the way down in that condition, enough to limp it to a place I could park. I got out and grabbed a pair of Vice Grips, cut the broken line (just in front of the break) and crimped it down real tight. That gave me enough brakes to make it home. (doing it like that gave me about 75% of my stopping power, which makes sense since I was missing one of my four wheel's brakes...)
Elder User
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 754
Likes: 1
From: Solon, Ohio
I've noticed that when you loose a brake line, front or rear, it seems like you have only maybe 25 percent braking efficiency at best. And with both working 100 percent.
It would be great if we could find a graph on the braking efficiency both split and combined so we could visualize it.
The reason the brakes don't actually stop halfway up and appear to get near the floor when you open one bleeder or loose a line can be attributed to 3 things that I can think of.
1 The booster is only having to push 1/2 the system and is more efficient.
2 The rubber flex lines are balooning.
3 No matter how good you bleed the brakes, there is always at least some air and moisture in the lines.
On my 94 150 with a rear bleeder open last summer, I tested my fronts which I had just installed new flex lines and pads and rotors on. I still had pedal, but I might have been able to get it to the floor if I pushed hard enough,...........but knowing the booster was only working against half it's load, I didn't force it.
I guess we are starting to beat a dead horse here a little and I think experience helps you know if the pedal is dropping to the floor, or is being pushed against some resistance.
It would be great if we could find a graph on the braking efficiency both split and combined so we could visualize it.
The reason the brakes don't actually stop halfway up and appear to get near the floor when you open one bleeder or loose a line can be attributed to 3 things that I can think of.
1 The booster is only having to push 1/2 the system and is more efficient.
2 The rubber flex lines are balooning.
3 No matter how good you bleed the brakes, there is always at least some air and moisture in the lines.
On my 94 150 with a rear bleeder open last summer, I tested my fronts which I had just installed new flex lines and pads and rotors on. I still had pedal, but I might have been able to get it to the floor if I pushed hard enough,...........but knowing the booster was only working against half it's load, I didn't force it.
I guess we are starting to beat a dead horse here a little and I think experience helps you know if the pedal is dropping to the floor, or is being pushed against some resistance.
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 973
Likes: 0
From: Gatineau, Quebec
Originally Posted by tomtoc
the guy is gone, why are we continuing the discussion?
and the conversation has improved dramatically. This is what the site is all about.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 19,402
Likes: 38
From: Bonita Springs FL
Originally Posted by netscaner
I guess we are starting to beat a dead horse here a little and I think experience helps you know if the pedal is dropping to the floor, or is being pushed against some resistance.
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Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 785
From: Simi Valley, CA
All Ford cars and light trucks had dual master cylinders beginning in 1967.
Don't see brake fluid leaking anywhere? Check the brake pressure differential valve (if applicable) located inward of the left front wheel on the frame rail. These are brass and can crack. This is also where the low brake fluid warning light switch is located.
The switch is plastic, and over time develops minute cracks in the threads. When that happens, brake fluid seeps past the threads, the low brake fluid warning light on the dash comes on, and stays on.
Don't see brake fluid leaking anywhere? Check the brake pressure differential valve (if applicable) located inward of the left front wheel on the frame rail. These are brass and can crack. This is also where the low brake fluid warning light switch is located.
The switch is plastic, and over time develops minute cracks in the threads. When that happens, brake fluid seeps past the threads, the low brake fluid warning light on the dash comes on, and stays on.
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