Am I the only one here who wonders why someone would post a question and when someone replies with a thought as to what might be the problem and thinking it might be related to a previous problem which obviously the person (who was trying to help ) took the time to look up...is met with rudeness and hostility. Nextras...I'm guess since you know your truck and what's not wrong with it...then by your own brilliant deduction...now should know what's wrong with it..
The guy was just trying to help you .......I'm sure he won't make that mistake again.

Sorry...just had to rant

 

Before this turns into an all-out war between you two, I'd like to make a couple suggestions.

First, you might suggest to your mechanic to check your power booster. The one in my F-250 has a bad diaphragm, and causes a few kind of funky issues (which I won't go into since they're not 100% related nor relevant to this issue). Sometimes when they go bad they can cause wierd issues with the pedal.

Second, brake pads are NOT supposed to squeal under normal braking circumstances. I would like to repeat this. Brake pads are NOT supposed to squeal under normal braking circumstances. If they're squealing, that's an indication of some abnormal issue. This could be simple, like brake dust collecting on the pads, or it could be more serious like the pads being sub-standard quality or a larger issue in the braking system. Every vehicle I've owned (which has been quite a few) has had quiet brakes under typical conditions. The only time they make any noise at all is when something needs attention.

I recommend that if your mechanic tells you that you need something brake-related you believe him. There's no such thing as "too safe" when it comes to brakes, and it's worth spending the little extra money to have that additional peace of mind.

(Just my $.02, but I hope it helps)

 

I was merely making an observation....I don't plan on responding any further. I saw someone trying to help someone out and the person looking for the help was in my opion being a little hasty and rude in his comments.
But hat's off to you for still trying to be helpful.

 

What you don't seem to GET THROUGH YOUR HEAD is the fact that you have two independant brake systems on your truck, fronts and rear. That's why you have two different brake lines leaving your master cylinder from two different places.

A fluid loss in the rear system will allow the pedal to travel farther to the floor, however if the front system is functioning properly you should still have plenty of pedal.

This is a safety feature that is incorporated into ALL braking systems on all motor vehicles since the 1970's, so that if you loose a line ect. you are only loosing braking on 2 of your four wheels.

 

Aside from your namecalling, which by the way is entirely unnecissary, you might look back up at my post about checking out your power booster. If it does it after sitting for a few hours, it could be a stuck diaphragm or other internal issue.

Since you say you aren't leaking fluid anywhere, and it's mostly in the pedal where you notice the issue, that's where I'd look if it were my truck.

Any more unwarranted verbal attacks at people, however, may just wind up making everyone mad enough to stop trying to help you entirely. Just my $.02...

 

Didnt skip over your post, tired of other things. At least you suggested something rather than harp on past..

And the .02 is also not needed

 

Nextras is taking a much needed break.

 

Thank you. This was getting quite ugly. This should be a place for information and fun.

 

Thanks to all that tried to nicely help out.

I take brakes real seriously because of the dangers to everyone on the road when a vehicle is perhaps unsafe.

 

You still cant get rid of me. I take brakes seriously too. I just HATE when you try to tell me something untrue. The trucks been in my family since 96. From then til now and on many other ford trucks like mine, there has been brake squeels.



if this forum is ment for fun, dont bash me. I get defensive cause you act like your an expert when i dont even know who you are. I got my answer within the first few replys.

This is the ONLY ford site where people have an issue with me. All other boards people shoot the crap and have fun, wel not here. You guys dont tolerate much and have way to many rules.

Lighten up guys, seriously. Confront me if you want, dont simply ban me so you cant hear (read) what I have to say.

 

...and one of the things we will not tolerate is registering again...NeXtras...you are banned and your alias.

 

You weren't "banned", nor was it because people can't read what you have to say. You were given two days off for being a jerk to other users because you didn't like their answers. And now, as Tim said, you're gone for good. I don't think anyone will miss you.

 

Netscanner, You are a patient man. I would have ceased after the first attack, but you still kept trying to help. Users like yourself make this site a better place...

Ken, Tim....Glad it wasn't just me...Keep up the good work!

 

Ok, now that we can have a civilized discussion...

This is one thing I have never understood about brakes. I can see there are two lines coming out of the master. One is for the fronts, the other for the rears. (At least I think... I haven't actually traced them, maybe I should)

Now, if I open up a bleeder valve on any of the wheels, the pedal goes to the floor. This is on EVERY vehicle. netscaner, if what you're saying is true, then I don't understand how brakes can be bled at all, because by your explanation you would have to open two bleeder valves in order to bleed the brakes.

Also, if the rear shoes are badly out of adjustment, I can step on the pedal and it will nearly go to the floor. If I adjust the rears up, then the pedal is nice and high.

So while I don't disagree that there are separate circuits for brakes, all of my observations have led to the conclusion that an open line or bleeder anywhere in the system means you have no or very little braking ability.

 

Yes, the two lines are separate, one for front and one for back.

If your brakes both front and rear are really up to snuff, separately opening either a front or a rear bleeder will give you reduced pedal, but you still have should have pedal.

When bleeding brakes, the pedal still travels up and down, but not all the way to the floor.

This doesn't hold true however on many newer four wheel anti-lock systems where if you blow a break line ect, you still have half pedal for stopping with the good half, but after you come to a stop and shut the vehicle off, upon restarting, the pedal goes to the floor.

On these systems, with a broken line, after restarting, the vehicle needs to be traveling in excess of 5 MPH for the half pedal to return, so that you can drive it marginally in it's compromised state.