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Here's the deal. I'm starting with the part AFTER you pull your old front TTB out and have the front of the truck on jackstands (somewhere around just forward of the tranny crossmember!)
Use the upper coil buckets off the 92 F-150. Center the axle (with the radius arms, lower coil buckets, and radius arm brackets all atached to the axle) under the upper buckets. Measure the distance from the front of the rear spring hanger to the point on the frame where the radius arm brackets are. Do this on both sides SEVERAL TIMES to make sure they are the same. Drill the new holes and mount the brackets to the frame. Measure them again to make sure they are still exactly the same distance as this will effect how the truck drives when it's all done!
Once the radius arms are attached to the frame, insert your coils and secure them with the 78's lower coil retainer cup and the 92's upper coil retainer clip. Lower the weight of the vehicle down on the springs and axle (it's best to have the axle sitting on another set of stands to give you room to work). It will want to flop to one side or the other, just watch it and make sure it doesn't fall. Place a come-a-long or some other ratching type device between the frame and axle pulling the truck center over the axle again (using a plumb bob dangling from each wheel well helps with the measuring). Assuming you have an adjustable track bar, mount your track bar to the axle, move it up to where you want to mount your track bar bracket to the frame (it should be just in front of the drivers side coil bucket). I guess the axle is set up for dual shocks, so you can re-use that mount or make your own to secure it to the frame. After that's done, you should be ready to make your steering. I used 1.25" Chromoly tube and 3/4 rod ends, but it's really overkill. Check my 1995 F-150 gallery for pics of the steering linkage and how mine turned out.
That would work pretty good if I wasn't going to move the axle forward an inch. I was figuring I could use the 78's upper coil buckets, and shock mounts. My main concern with the trac-bar is if it hits the xmemeber or not.
The track bar should be just forward of the crossmember. Worst case (and will help out if you are running a 4-6" lift) is trim the crossmember. Cut it about 2" from the bottom straight across to give you a little extra room to work with.
Why are you moving the axle forward? 1" really isn't going to give you much. Anywho, if that's the case, remount the buckets where you want them, then follow along with the rest of what I posted....
Well, I wanted to go forward a little bit to keep it better centered in the wheel well... even with 31s on it now it looks odd with how far set back the axle looks. So, I think I've got most of what I wanted to know figured out. Thanks guys. I'll probably be back with more questions. Next weekend, I'm going to start pulling measurements off of my 92 just to figure out where I'm going to put things.