I came across this on youtube, what do you think?
xxx.youtube.com/user/ThePowerTube

 

red......I'm assuming you were reading the lie-o-meter? I would think you would need to drive a tank and calculate your mileage. I assume you know what your truck gets before....go fill up so you can start with a full tank. What size reactor did you make? I'm considering trying this too.....maybe this weekend.

 

If anyone knows of an easy key switched to tap into for power I would appreciate it. Right now it's just tapped on the battery. Once I get it squared away I'll try to post some PIX and specs.[/QUOTE]




Congrats on your project, very interesting thread.

As far as a switched power, locate your igniton harness and look for a red/light green or a white/yellow wire, this is your main igniotion wire, tapp into that and you will be set. Test before you make a final connection though.
Hope this helps.

Zip

 

Thanks for the info ZIP I appreciate it. I was using the "lie-o-meter". I fugured the thing lies the same all time so the info should be "relatively" significant (ie. differnecce in lies should give me some idea what's going on). I buy my fuel in 500 gal. batches (get a little bulk discount) and I don't have a meter on the pump when I draw it out so I was waiting until I get it dialed in to give it the real test.

 

No problem red............then the "lie-o-meter" is your best bet! I'm considering making one like the link I posted this weekend. But I will try it out on my less expensive beater Accord first. If I get anything decent out of it, then I will make a bigger one for the truck. Thank You for all your info!

 

Here's what I used so far:

1' 4" PVC
4" pvc cap
4" pvc cleanout adapter (screw in cap)
4' 14 gauge romex (solid copper wire)
3' 5/16 fuel line
5/16 bard x 3/8 mip adapter
couple pieces of plastic bucket lid (use for spacer for anode and diode)
inline fuse holder
30 amp fuse
toggle switch
various lengths of wire and elec. connectors (to wire switch)
pvc glue
jb weld
pipe thread sealant
8 tbls baking soda (start with less (1 tbls) and work your way up)
8 cups water
(I think that's it)

The only thing I'd change is the anode and diode material. I would use stainless instead of copper (should last longer). Maybe some stainless all thread (won't corode as fast as the copper). It works good, but that's what I'm gonna change.

 

If your accord is carburated it will work good. If not the O2 sensor will read too much oxygen and dump more fuel (worse millage).

 

OK.....yes it is fuel injected so that is going to a an issue. I'm assuming disconnecting the sensor would not be sufficient? Maybe I will have to try it on the truck instead unless I can figure out how to overcome that issue.

Is your 4" system making enough hydrogen? I was thinking 6" pvc with as many 3/8" or 1/2" all thread I could install. Lowes sells stainless steel plated all thread.

Also have you tried idling your truck with system going? I wonder if too much hydrogen would be added with just idling for long periods of time....like 15-30min.

 

After I rework my anode/diode set up the 4" should make plenty of gas. I had a pretty hard time finding a place to put the 4" pipe, so the 6 would be pretty hard. The fittings are probably 10-15 bucks a piece to. I doubt if the plating would last very long, but should work good for a while. I don't idle my truck for that long, but I doubt you could make too much for your truck to use in that situation. As long as you keep the power draw around 15 amps you should be fine. Mine is just over 15 with 8 tbls baking soda in 1/2 gal water.

 

Hey, what happened to the horney squirrel guy? Haven't heard from him in a while. I bet he could use the squirrel cage to make the electrodes for his hydrogen generator. Won't be a complete loss that way. Just an idea.....gotta throw 'em around.

 

Red.....where did you mount yours? I'm thinking about an upside down "T" configuration like in the video mounted between the grill and the radiator. I also think the idea of using the fender washers will be easier for the first one anyways.

I also found someone making an "EFIE" device to control the o2 sensor so it can be run on newer gas cars......something to consider......we will see how the first one goes!

 

You had to bring that back up didn't you? I have not missed the negativity!

 

The hydrogen cells used on Tractor trailers net around a 20% increase in efficiency and the engine runs wildly cleaner.

These units cost a few thousand dollars and require about 15 amps to run. It's a no brainer for OTR trucks, however, it would be difficult for a LT to justify

 

It has been kinda nice with out all the bad vibes, sorry I brought it up!!!! I thought about puting mine between the grill and the radiator, but I didn't want to cut a hole in the trim piece on top or keep taking the grill off and on while I was messing with it or adding more water. I put mine in the front fenderwell, driver's side kinda tucked up in the bumper. You have to get it in there just right or at full lock the tire (285/75/16) will rub it a little. I don't know if a 6" pipe would fit behind the grill either.

 

Dave, you really should look at stainless welding rods as your elctrodes instead of copper. I read somewhere that the disintegrating metal is actually making its way into your engine. I don't know if they were talking about copper but I would think the corrosion rate would be fairly high on that.

Just something to think about....