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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

lock cylinder

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Old Feb 29, 2008 | 11:03 PM
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lock cylinder

How do you remove the passanger side lock cylinder on a 1948 ford f-4 truck. It appears there is an allen head screw that should do something... If it is an alllen head mine is stripped out. I am preping for paint and need it removed.
 
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Old Feb 29, 2008 | 11:27 PM
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From: SE Wisc. (the Rust Belt)
Yes, the allen head bolt holds the lock in.

 
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Old Mar 1, 2008 | 01:44 AM
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If it is stripped, Whack a slot into it with an old chisel and a BFH then (after lubricating as well as possible, using one of those thin tube extensions on the aerosol can) just turn it with a screwdriver.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2008 | 08:21 AM
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Also might see if you can drill it out deeper and use an EZ-OUT.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2008 | 09:08 AM
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Before you hit it, drill it, etc., do a search on this! There are some that come out those ways but you can also break off the whole tube, and then you're screwed!
 
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Old Mar 1, 2008 | 09:24 AM
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From: SE Wisc. (the Rust Belt)
The set screw is made of hardened steel so it won't drill very easy, you might break the drill of inside of it and then you screwed again. I would strongly suggest soaking it with a good penetrating oil. After it has soaked a while take an allen wrench one size bigger, grind down end slightly and tap it into the set screw. With luck you might be able to turn it out.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2008 | 11:31 AM
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If you are just removing it for paint, you can usually push the cylinder out a little (enough for masking) from the inside. The cylinder is soft zinc alloy, the setscrew is steel. If the screw doesn't come easy, consider leaving it. Not having any cylinder is worse than a little masking.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2008 | 05:50 PM
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I was able to turn the screw approximatly 3/4 of a turn. This allows the lock to be removed from the door about a 1/4". I assume that the screw needs to be removed entirely for the cylinder to come out completly. I can't get that screw to turn more... Does anyone have a picture of both the lock cylinder and the allen head screw. I'd like to see what I'm dealing with.

It might be a tape off, but it would nice to have it out for easier block sanding.
Thanks for all the responces.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2008 | 09:20 PM
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They suck for sure. I've done a few of them and some come out easy or not at all. If your set screw moves and you can take your door off lay it on its hinge end and spray some PB Blaster on the set screw and turn the screw back and forth. Can also use a small torch flame to heat the set screw to cherry red and quench with water. You want to heat the screw only and not the tube so a very small flame. The last door I worked on nothing worked the screw is longer than you think so is tough to get penetrating fluid to its whole length. The lock cylinder has a groove cut in its side that the set screw tightens down into so if you got the lock part way out you are real close. I ended up placing a screwdriver in the small gap between the door and the set screw tube and pried the tube upwards, this may work enough for you to get the lock out since you are real close. In my case I pried the tube up and got the lock out but the tube broke which I will have to deal with later.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2008 | 09:33 AM
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There is a lock and set screw on ebay under 1952 for truck parts .Item # 170198185430 . This may help you to see what you are dealing with.
 
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