Yup. went to school, everything was gravy (i think). WAS just fine last night. get out of school today at 12:35, walk over to the whip, start it up, look down and notice the volt meter isn't moving at all. plus the red charging battery light is on. so i take it over to our autoshop, had the shop teacher check it, yup, the fancy machine confirmed it, my alternator is dead. lucky for me i have two battery's, but now i have to buy a new one!! argh!!!

ok so any way's here's my options:

random alternator from u pull it, NOT rebuilt as is w a 30 day warrenty, 35 bux w 5 dollar core charge.

knechts said i could get a 95 amp alternator for 119.99 w a 35 dollar core charge.

napa was 130 for same type alternator.

schucks offers this one: http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=BOS&MfrPartNumber=AL752 7X&PartType=11&PTSet=A

that's a bosch alternator, 95 amp, but it's built extreem temps/high demand (and my system is well... kinda high demand) but it's like 200 bux w an 85 dollar core charge, but i get a 10% discount there on expensive items i think... well my dad does for sure.

i want to go w either schucks or knechts, and know that i will need to take my main battery to them to have it charged, but i want your guys's advice first and quickly please!!

THANK YOU SO MUCH IN ADVANCE!!

Ryan

 

try Thrifty's over on 2110 E Powel or there is one in Sandy
bet they'll sell a rebuilt for less than $100

if you're buying a rebuilt? go where you know positively that they stand behind their warranty.
many auto parts retailers find all types of lame reasons to skip out on covering a 2 month old defective rebuild because the profit margin is so low.
get the cheapey and pray.

save your shekels if you're going to keep the van and get a US made large 135amp frame that has been rebuilt with US made 200 amp components.
avail. online at several suppliers

can also get a 135 amp Explorer large frame used at junke parts emporium that will drop in.

increase the red lead size from alternator to battery to 8 gauge for 135 amp and 4 ga for 200 amp

your headlights will never dim again when you drive the bass cones right out of their coils with 2,000 watts rms with the 200 amp hvy duty

 

Instead of spending money on a questionable rebuilt unit, take your original to a rebuilder like

United Battery Systems Inc 109 NE Columbia Blvd

Portland, OR 97211-1415

(I think they rebuild them, I just used dexonline to find a search)

A good rebuilder can increase the amps, plus you will still have your original alternator, instead of some POS rebuilt that could let go a couple months ago.

Well at least this explains the Volt gauge from your other post.

 

hah yeah. but get this: when i got home i parked my van in front of my house, like always, but it was in the sun. three hours later i have to go back to school for a class i'm making up, i get to the top of my street, and the needle jumps up and my car starts charging again! i'm like SWEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEET!!!!! but now it's back to not charging again, and i was driving around on pure battery. so my TEMP solution is i'm going to throw a battery charger on it tonight so i can get to school tomorow. then i'll start charging my battery during my shop classes tomorow and get an alternator RIGHT after school and install it again. i think i'll keep the core and see what can be done with it at a more convienient time (sp?).

say speaking of high power alternators, i have a grip of 4g wiring left over from wiring up my system, and where is it that i can get one in a timely matter?

also,

are the explorer 135amp alternators a direct bolt in, and what years would work?

 

Hi Ryan,

To speak like us old folks, you have to say "groovy." But that's so "sixtyish"

The 135A from an Explorer will bolt right in, provided that you have a 4.0L engine, but not on a 3.0L engine.

I think you can just pull off your alternator and replace the brush assembly. About $10 worth of parts, I'd say. When it's charging intermittently like that, it's almost certain to be the brush assembly.

Good luck.

 

my bad. lol GROOVY! darn it i have the underdog 3.0l in my aero. oh well, i'll make 95 amps w a line of 4g in stead of that 8 or 10g that's there right now do. hehehehe. you know what all it takes to get a 135 amp alt. to bolt on to a 3L? i think i feel a trip to upull it for an exploder alternator and a 3l mounting bracket setup so i can bust out my fab skillz... lol

 

Does yours have a bolt on Voltage regulator ? if so then for $25 it could be a really simple/cheap fix. Brushes can get worn/ lazy springs etc. Also make sure all your connections are clean, vaseline helps to stop corrosion & the bad /intermittent connections that go with it!

Aeroman.

 

My alternator died on Saturday,I got it off,very tight place!!!
The van has 166,000 I bought it with 50,000.

Do you think I should replace the brush assembly or just buy a other alternator??????

I need to save some cash, but really don't want to put it back in just to pull it out again..

Thanks, this forum is great

1988 ford aerostar xlt
166,000 ,miles

 

if you have time, just get either a new one or a re manufactured one, and have it tested @ the auto store before you leave w it to make sure it isn't broken. i picked up a re manufactured "motor craft" (the casing was motor craft) alt. from knechts.

 

Welcome to our FTE forum.

Pull your old brush set and see if they are worn out. If they are down to the bone, a new brush set usually does the trick. If not, just buy a rebuilt alternator. Also, if your battery is old, replace it along with the alternator. A new alternator will be blown in no time at all if your battery shorts out.

By the way, do you have a 3.0L or a 4.0L?

Good luck and best regards.

 

always charge the battery with a 120v charger before starting up with a new/rb alternator.
a partially charged battery will also cook a new/rb alternator. fries the slip rings before they seat in.

 

Thanks so much for the replies...
I did put a new battery in to.
I just figured i would replace the alternator.. I needed the van up and running as soon as possible.

It is running great..
It has a 4.0 in it..

 

when i was looking for a new alt, i found a few that stated right on the box/online lable: will over heat if battery is not charged. or something to that effect.

 

V/reg brushes take a few hours to run in. With 25 amps or so charging a flat battery, probably wont do them any good. Some places run them on a bench for a while (re-coned units).

Indicator blown bulb will stop any Alternator from charging!

 

V/reg brushes take a few hours to run in. With 25 amps or so charging a flat battery, probably wont do them any good. Some places run them on a bench for a while (re-coned units).

Battery charge Indicator blown bulb will stop any Alternator from charging!