4x4 INOP
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Baldwin, ND
4x4 INOP
Ok I put my pickup into 4x4 and nothing happened in either 4hi or 4lo. What is the most common part to fail on these rigs? I am assuming its the hubs. It has the stock Auto hubs.
What other parts should be looked at to ensure proper operation? And what do I need to do to check them?
Thanks
Thad
What other parts should be looked at to ensure proper operation? And what do I need to do to check them?
Thanks
Thad
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,412
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From: Munroe falls, Ohio
If you have the manual 4x4 system, with a tcase lever and auto hubs. When you put the shifter in 4low, you did go slower than 4high correct? Next, put the tcase in 4high and try to rotate the front driveshaft, it shouldnt rotate. If all this is true then the only left is the auto hubs. The tires need to rotate alittle before the hubs will lock in, so dont get stuck and then engage 4x4.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Baldwin, ND
I'll give it a look in the morning.....my wife would like to spend time with me tonight since I spent the day working on my pickup.....
Any suggestions on new manual locking hubs?
Thanks
Thad
Any suggestions on new manual locking hubs?
Thanks
Thad
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 3,594
Likes: 2
From: Southern Oregon USA
Warn 11690 for the standard locking hubs or 38826 for the premiums. To convert from auto hubs, you will need a spindle lock nut kit. I have a set of the standards on mine and they've worked flawlessly for over 200K miles.
Jason
Jason
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Munroe falls, Ohio
I converted from auto hubs to the milemarker stainless steel hubs(#449ss). Cost $160 from summit racing. Other guys run warn hubs or superwinch hubs.
To convert from auto hubs, you might need a spindle nut kit, it depends on if you have two nuts & a lock ring holding your wheel bearings on the spindle or just one nut. Mine came with two nuts so I didnt need the kit.
To convert from auto hubs, you might need a spindle nut kit, it depends on if you have two nuts & a lock ring holding your wheel bearings on the spindle or just one nut. Mine came with two nuts so I didnt need the kit.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,132
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From: Baldwin, ND
Ok with all four tires in the air I put it in 4HI. The rear passenger side tire was spinning as well as the front passenger side shaft (yes I got out and looked). The front tire did not spin though. Would this be a auto hub malfunction? Or did the hub not engage? Should I spin it to lock it in place? I'll try that although I thought i spun it enough to engage it when I was out there.....but I'lll try again. I may take off the bolts and look to see if there are any obvious signs of malfunction....
Thad
Thad
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Baldwin, ND
Ok I went out and inspected the auto hubs. They had five 25TORX bolts on them. First, is this the factory setup? Now I have never taken apart a hub before but it seems the drivers side was ok. The passenger side was rusty and gunky looking on the inside, almost like water had gotten in there and wreeked havoc. The grease was creamy and gray.....it was different colors in different areas/clumps. Does it sound like I can get away with just getting new hubs?
Thad
Thad
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Munroe falls, Ohio
easy way to test 4 wheel drive. On dry pavement or close to it, engage 4x4, drive straight for a short distance than turn either left or right. If the truck starts hopping then 4x4 works. Dont do this for too long, just so you know it works. Yes the auto hubs have 5 torx25 screws, they say 4x4 on them. I have a working set that I removed to install the MM hubs. With auto hubs, the tires must rotate a little distance before they will engage the front axle. You could try to clean the junky hub then regrease it.
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Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Baldwin, ND
Originally Posted by 84-250
easy way to test 4 wheel drive. On dry pavement or close to it, engage 4x4, drive straight for a short distance than turn either left or right. If the truck starts hopping then 4x4 works. Dont do this for too long, just so you know it works. Yes the auto hubs have 5 torx25 screws, they say 4x4 on them. I have a working set that I removed to install the MM hubs. With auto hubs, the tires must rotate a little distance before they will engage the front axle. You could try to clean the junky hub then regrease it.
Thad
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 5,638
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From: Manitoba
Make sure you get the right lubricant for the auto hub portion....... the crossover for the ford lube required in the instructions is speedo cable grease..... The lockup portion with the spring is cleaned then dipped in ATF and allowed to drip dry.
The axle bearings use the normal lubricants required.
To be honest if you are seeing the parts as you describe I would remove the the whole lot back to the steering knuckle. There are needle bearings/seals in the spindle that are probably fubar too.
The axle bearings use the normal lubricants required.
To be honest if you are seeing the parts as you describe I would remove the the whole lot back to the steering knuckle. There are needle bearings/seals in the spindle that are probably fubar too.
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 3,594
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From: Southern Oregon USA
Pull the hubs down, repack or replace the bearings, pull the spindles and check the bearings in the back side. If they aren't rusty or siezed, slather them with grease. Put it all back together with new manual locking hubs. The auto hubs are not worth the trouble to repair them if they aren't working.
Jason
Jason
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Baldwin, ND
Yeah, I am going to do that on Wednesday (ie new manual hubs), when the Auto Skills Shop on post is open......there's an old retired NCO that worked on the M1008's with the Dana 60....it seems that they are somewhat similiar...
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 3,594
Likes: 2
From: Southern Oregon USA
Originally Posted by dakotajeep
there's an old retired NCO that worked on the M1008's with the Dana 60....it seems that they are somewhat similiar...
An M1008... Thats a truck I wouldn't mind owning. Rated 1 1/4 ton, 14 bolt with a Detroit Locker, Dana 60 front, 4.56 gears. T400. Just get rid of the 6.2 for a real engine and you have a great, bulletproof workhorse.
Jason