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Old Feb 29, 2008 | 06:00 AM
  #16  
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And I'll even get some of the Ranger project, just so you don't feel so bad about having to update stuff......
 
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Old Feb 29, 2008 | 03:13 PM
  #17  
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did the pics never surface???
 
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Old Mar 1, 2008 | 07:31 PM
  #18  
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sorry. i havent been to my shop in a couple of days and my old lady is keepin me very busy so it will take a couple more days.... monday at the latest
 
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Old Mar 1, 2008 | 07:48 PM
  #19  
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hurry hurry hurry! we need pics, and if its looks good id like to see a write up on it too
 
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Old Mar 2, 2008 | 08:33 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by chrono4
did the pics never surface???
Check the tow points on my Ranger build! Should be beefy enough to pull the light weight truck anywhere I need to!
 
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Old Mar 2, 2008 | 10:26 PM
  #21  
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Just a fyi, the really white valves and pistons are usually a result of a lean mixture (bad intake leak ect).
 
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Old Mar 2, 2008 | 11:03 PM
  #22  
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That's what I figured. It's like that on both heads too. The motor had a small (like 500-600 cfm) Edelbrok carb on it. I've got a nice Holly 830 Dommy that will go back on it after everything gets finished up.

Enough with the hijacking, how's this for some good tow point on the front of the frame:



and the back:

 

Last edited by kjett; Mar 2, 2008 at 11:13 PM.
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Old Mar 3, 2008 | 12:02 AM
  #23  
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i second the lean mixture causing white valves, worried about getting stuck, i think you would have to burry that thing in clay, then let the clay dry around your truck before you had to worry about breaking those hooks, deffenitly looks good. Wanna do mine next? i could use some tie-down/towpoint that sturdy!
 
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Old Mar 3, 2008 | 12:07 AM
  #24  
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How hot did you burn the d rings in with? I did mine with triple passes with the Beta mig turned all they way up

wouldn't want them coming off....
 
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Old Mar 3, 2008 | 05:37 AM
  #25  
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I have a Lincoln SP-135 mig welder, it was turned all the way up with the wire speed turned down some so I can get a really good penetration. Then we went over each pass 3 times and blended it all in to make sure it wasn't going anywhere. We did that for all of the bracing, hook, and d-rings. I also tacked together the ladder bars, but the camera went dead before I got to get some pics of them.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2008 | 08:02 AM
  #26  
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maybe should of found someone with a better welder to get a little more penetration (like me!)......that could really ***** someones day up....
even with my lincoln 255 id be scared to use something like that, especially in a big mud truck, but since yours ins't all that heavy, theyd prob be fine....
 
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Old Mar 3, 2008 | 11:18 AM
  #27  
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Thats what I was worried about quad, was that he used a smaller welder. When I did mine, the metal all around the d rings was color distorted in a 4ish inch circle.......hot.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2008 | 11:35 AM
  #28  
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I welded the radius arm and track bar bracets to the frame of my F-150 the same way and have never had a problem with them. And if youd seen it run last year, I went airborn several times and never broke a weld. Remember the box tube is 1/4" and most frames are around 1/4 to 5/16" thick. The SP-135 mig is more than capable to handle it. Ya just gotta know how to get good penetration......
 
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Old Mar 3, 2008 | 02:56 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by chrono4
How hot did you burn the d rings in with? I did mine with triple passes with the Beta mig turned all they way up

wouldn't want them coming off....
You got the Hobart beta mig 1800, thats the same one i have, I use flux core wire in mine, that thing will do some THICK stuff.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2008 | 05:23 PM
  #30  
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yeah it will, very reliable machine.
 
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