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Old Feb 26, 2008 | 05:43 PM
  #1  
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What am I doing wrong?

Ok,

I have the rotor shaft out of a 500kW motor... which is 4140.
To get a new rotor shaft made up is much dollars, and far too long (it has some intricate CNC work on it)

So, I need to weld it, re machine it and grind it.

I have some Ferrocraft 61 welding rods (link ) (unfortunately I don't have access to a TIG ), and I just cant get a weld started

I have pre-heated the area..

What am I doing wrong?
 
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Old Feb 26, 2008 | 06:25 PM
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Fred, lets start with the rods first. What the heck is a ferrite 61? I would weld it with 7018 if it were me, however a little more info might help too. What is the hardness of the shaft you are trying to weld?
 
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Old Feb 26, 2008 | 07:23 PM
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Ferrocraft 61 is a E7018 type electrode.

The shaft is basic unhardened 4140... which off the top of my head has a Rc of 40-44
 
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Old Feb 26, 2008 | 07:28 PM
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The problem is 4140 is normally VERY difficult to weld. Do a quick google search on "welding 4140". Basically, you need to preheat to 450deg for at least 15 minutes. That's some off the tricky part because it will be hard to maintain that temp for 15min. Then use a low hydrogen rod like 7018 that has been baked dry. Next is the REALLY important part. You have to control the cooling. I want to say for several hours. I cant remeber exactly how long so do some searching. If it cools too quickly it will crack!
Myself, I would recommend against it.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2008 | 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by FTE Fred
Ferrocraft 61 is a E7018 type electrode.

The shaft is basic unhardened 4140... which off the top of my head has a Rc of 40-44
Ok it is unhardened, and your using the right rod, that makes it easier. Unhardened should be no more than about 20-25. 40-45 would be heat treated and stress relieved. The slow cool down is to maintain it in an unhardened state, if you just weld it and let it cool it will be anywhere between 40-50 rockwell. Try baking the rods dry like stryder has suggested. Temp sticks can be a pain in the butt, however ir thermometers work pretty good in this instance. I would try to hold it between 350 and 400 when welding and then bring it down to room temp over 2 hours. I worked with 4140 alot in the machine shop and I remember welding some of on accident several times. Never did I have cracking issues. We use 4140 almost exclusively in compressor rods and they spray them all the time. I hate to ask the obvious, but right polarity on the welder?
 
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Old Feb 26, 2008 | 08:03 PM
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4140 has a hardness around RC32 (BHN 302). When its annealed, its MUCH softer...around RA56 (BHN 197). When its annealed, its readily weldable, then it can be heat treated back to the standard 4140 specs.
Fred, cant believe I didnt think of this before. Do you have a local heat treat business around that can anneal/heat treat it for you?
 
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Old Feb 26, 2008 | 08:12 PM
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Here's a great link.

http://www.interlloy.com.au/data_she..._bar/4140.html
 
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Old Feb 26, 2008 | 10:51 PM
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I assume that 450deg is in Farenheit? (Sorry, I thought best to check!)

I had it preheated
I will put the rods in the oven too


On edit: I took the assumption it was in F - sorry, meant to post this a while ago.
As for the heat treater - we have an induction heater here...

I am waiting for it to cool now (am dropping the induction heater down slowly)
 

Last edited by BigF350; Feb 26, 2008 at 11:11 PM.
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Old Mar 3, 2008 | 06:06 PM
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Just thought I would do a follow up, and thankyou for your helpful advice!


Everything is working fine! (touch wood!)
 
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Old Mar 3, 2008 | 06:44 PM
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Glad to hear all turned out for the best. Had I known you had an induction coil at your disposal, I wouldnt have been as concerned. Being able to control the cool down like that probably made all the difference.

P.S. I've at least started a materials write up. Whenever I get it finished, I'll post a copy for you to add to the tech sticky. These hours at work are killing me.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2008 | 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by stryder
Glad to hear all turned out for the best. Had I known you had an induction coil at your disposal, I wouldnt have been as concerned. Being able to control the cool down like that probably made all the difference.
It probably did. I will be honest, I am a poor fabricator (I only do it when, like this instance all our welders were away), but I do know that both the heating and cooling of the material is critical to getting a strong result.
P.S. I've at least started a materials write up. Whenever I get it finished, I'll post a copy for you to add to the tech sticky. These hours at work are killing me.
No rush, and thanks
 
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