Hey fellas~
I want to regrease my front end, but I am new to this and I am not quite sure what kind of grease to use and exactly where to find the grease and grease gun. I would love some ideas on this topic. Thanks so much guys! You are all such a wonderful help to this yound slick owner. I appreciate all of your input and comments.

KILLER

 

Killer

Grease is found in tubes and sold at just about every parts store.. along with lincoln grease guns. Use a good gun. Stay away form the cheapies at wally world.

A multi type lube regular or synthetic will do. Most trucks have not been maintained over the years so before killing yourself trying to pump grease into frozen zerks take them out and soak them in kero or diesel for a day and then blow them clean and reinstall. The old greases were a parrifin base. (wax) and would plug the zerk solid.

you will find 2 zerks on each spindle, one on each tie rod, and one on each end of the drag link. Also there is a zerk on the clutch equalizer shaft.

Process is simple pump till you see grease come out. wipe excess..

Garbz

 

Try to find a grease gun with a pistol grip that can be pumped with one hand. This will leave the other one free to hold the hose on the zerk. The kind with a rigid output tube don't require the third hand, but don't fit into as many places either.

 

I'm not sure if small diameter heads are available but I would love to find one that fits my U-joints a little better. Just a couple thousandths smaller would be ideal.

On a related topic...Has anyone seen a grease compatability chart. There are so many options available and I never know if the tube I buy today will work with the new and improved version of the same type tomorrow.

 

"Process is simple pump till you see grease come out. wipe excess.."
Garbz,
I'm gonna disagree with you, here. If you pump so much grease in that you're pushing it back out, you are breaking the seal that is intended to keep out dirt,water & other contaminents, thus contributing to early wearout of the joints. You should only pump in enough grease to slightly expand the rubber boot. If you are good about remembering to grease the joints regularly, you should only have to add 1 or 2 squeezes of the handle at each greasing.
Just my opinion...
Judi

 

when shopping for grease get a good high impact,high temp, water proof grease,it'll cost by the tube about $4 a tube
don't be cheap and try to save money,it ain't cheep if it gets beat out in 500 miles

 

Steve, Try Southern States, they carry many items like that. You usually can rotate the ds and find a better fit.

Judi, I agree, One full pump should do the trick.

Garbz, As cheep as zerks are one might think about replacing it rather than soaking, 6 to 1/2 dozen thinking.


All these parts that we grease only have moderate movement, and usually not a lot of heat buildup. Speaking as one that grew up on a farm and raised by a man who touted grease is cheep, parts are expensive, we pumped grease regularly. Dad bought it in 5 gal. buckets, and we reloaded the gun, long before the replacement cartridges made the scene. Theres still 2-3 of those large size guns with rubber hoses on them there today.

So after plain ol baseline grease for the last hundred years has been ok, we now have to choose between multi wt., high impact, waterproof, grease. How things have changed.


John

 

The grease I use? Simple, Valvoline has grease in tubes that say "Ford" spec right on it...

 

The grease fittings are right at the top and bottom of each spindle.



Like rbaker said, don't be cheap. I used some good Valvoline high-temp grease, and squirted it in there until it just began to ooze out. Then you're done.

 

man that's a pretty picture.... Can't wait till mine look like that!

 

Judi the o rings and dust seals are designed to allow the grease out (a fine example is pictured above) Service procedure mentions grease exiting to be sure it is fully greased.. And tie rod ends and drag link are dust seals not grease seals. They are not designed to keep the grease in only keep crap out. you push out excess to clear any contaminated grease from water or other contaminants in the spindle or tie rods or drag link..Grease is not impermeable and will absorb some water. With the I beam spindles grease needs to exit as it has metallic seal caps that hold the zerks. unless the grease comes out around the spindle its not greased.

Now ball joints have seals like you are thinking and require different service procedure, but i have never met a stock 61 to 66 truck with them...

John modern zerks hold no candle to the ones originally supplied. There made of softer metals and just crap. for the buck in diesel or Kero involved there worth saving.

Most good grease guns will come with a needle attachment to do universals. you also have to watch how the u joint is installed as it has access in a certain position there is a one in four chance of getting it right.. Ford did not make it hard for a reason.....

Garbz

 

Yeah... not to jack this thread, but it took me a good 3 days to get the entire piece completely down to metal, the cheap man's way (i.e. ripping through 7-8 rough wire brushes). I wouldn't have been able to afford it otherwise.

Front axle stripped bare.


After about 3 coats of black epoxy enamel. The axle, being to closest part to the road, and directly under the front of the truck, is going to take a hell of a lot of road debris, so if its going to be painted, it might as well be sprayed with the heaviest-duty stuff available. The epoxy is like a super-hard glue which really seals and protects the metal.

 

Looks good...

Nice work.

Garbz

 

quality grease fittings can still be purchased ie Alemite which is probly who made the original fittings,I have been greasing trucks and equipment for more years than i like to think of and I don't fight with a plugged or damaged fitting

u-joints if installed corectly aren't hard to grease