going to try Bio B-20....thoughts? Comments?
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Lead Driver
Joined: May 2007
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From: Flagstaff, Arizona
going to try Bio B-20....thoughts? Comments?
So I found a place locally that sells B20 Bio.....I have heard it is great for the motor every now and then. How soon after running it should I replace my fuel filter? Should I start with a fresh one, run the tank dry then put another new filter? I"m a definite NEWBIE when it comes to bio! Thanks
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Heber UT
Originally Posted by UP_There
So I found a place locally that sells B20 Bio.....I have heard it is great for the motor every now and then. How soon after running it should I replace my fuel filter? Should I start with a fresh one, run the tank dry then put another new filter? I"m a definite NEWBIE when it comes to bio! Thanks
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Dallas-Ft. Worth
I've been running BD on & off over the last 8 months or so. I ran one tank of B20 and the rest has been B100. I just filled up Saturday with another tank of B100. I stayed away from it over the winter because of the gelling issues, but it's getting warm enough here now to start running it again. B20 won't have that issue nearly as bad.
About the cleaning thing, I haven't had any issues with clogged filters. I changed my filter about six months ago. When I dropped my tank for the Hutch/Harpoon, it was absolutely spotless. But there was some scuzz when I changed the filter (before running BD) -- I've run DK in every dino tank pretty much since I got the truck, so that may be why mine was already clean. If you've been running a similar additive, you may not have any issues either.
About the cleaning thing, I haven't had any issues with clogged filters. I changed my filter about six months ago. When I dropped my tank for the Hutch/Harpoon, it was absolutely spotless. But there was some scuzz when I changed the filter (before running BD) -- I've run DK in every dino tank pretty much since I got the truck, so that may be why mine was already clean. If you've been running a similar additive, you may not have any issues either.
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Spring, Texas
I started running BioD in Nov/Dec. My filter still looks new. I did the Hutch/Harpoon in Jan. My tank was spotless. Check your filter after your first tank. Chances are it will be fine.
I bought a spare fuel filter and threw it in my tool box before running my first tank. Its still there. No need to change in my case.
I have been running different mixtures, anywhere from B50 to B99. BioD makes my motor much quieter. I produce much less black smoke when mashing the throttle and I like the smell of the exhaust.
Good Luck!
I bought a spare fuel filter and threw it in my tool box before running my first tank. Its still there. No need to change in my case.
I have been running different mixtures, anywhere from B50 to B99. BioD makes my motor much quieter. I produce much less black smoke when mashing the throttle and I like the smell of the exhaust.
Good Luck!
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Lead Driver
Joined: May 2007
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From: Flagstaff, Arizona
B20 is the only type available within 60 miles of here. I am in the city all the time that has it. I will post back with my results.....I'll probably be due for a fillup next week.
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From: Alamo city
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Texas
Travis, I tried my first tank of B20 at around 155,000 miles. I carried a spare filter with me to be on the safe side, but never had any filter plugging issues. I checked it every 5000 miles the first several tanks to be on the safe side. The filter did get a little darker quicker than it used to, but I stuck with the 15,000 change cycle. I think you'll be surprised how the engine seems to just smooth out a bit as soon as the Bio makes it's way to the injectors. I thought I was imagining things the first time, but my wife was with me and she asked if the engine just got smoother.
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 366
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From: Webster, Texas
I have been using B-100 for four years now. It stays pretty warm down here most of the time but like the others I use alot of Dino mixed in during the winter. Bio is really hard to find here because the companies that produce it choose to ship most of it to Europe where they can sell it for several more dollars per gallon. This really sucks! Hopefully our new president will rectify this situation so we have fuel here for us to use. I loaded an unrelated chemical into two tanks on a vessel headed for Rotterdam and all the other tanks on this very large product carrier were loaded with Biodiesel and Ethanol. Dino is now $3.69/gal near Nasa.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 14,541
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From: Dallas-Ft. Worth
I just paid $3.35 up here in DFW. A new record. A full dollar over what I paid this time last year. 
It sat at 3.29 for a while, then dropped into the 3-teens range, but now it's right back up. B@$t@rd$.
It sat at 3.29 for a while, then dropped into the 3-teens range, but now it's right back up. B@$t@rd$.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Hartford, WI
If your tank is clean, you have no real worries. Mine was spotless when I did the hutch and harpoon mod so I could have run B100 with no issues. Now, OTOH, if you have a crudded up tank, well..... As long as it is priced the same as D2, go for it. It is similarly priced, right?
This is why you want to do the hutch mod. If any big pieces do come out, they will be filtered out BEFORE they get to the pump. In a stock system, if crud does come out in larger chunks, it will clog up the strainer and/or the filters in the mixing valve. That almost always means you are going to drop the tank and at a time most inconvenient to you. Murphy's Law.
I'd leave the current (engine) filter there. Why mess up a new one? Let it mess up the old one then put the new one in to see if it does anything. That way you will know it is clean or dirty.
This is why you want to do the hutch mod. If any big pieces do come out, they will be filtered out BEFORE they get to the pump. In a stock system, if crud does come out in larger chunks, it will clog up the strainer and/or the filters in the mixing valve. That almost always means you are going to drop the tank and at a time most inconvenient to you. Murphy's Law.
I'd leave the current (engine) filter there. Why mess up a new one? Let it mess up the old one then put the new one in to see if it does anything. That way you will know it is clean or dirty.
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Lead Driver
Joined: May 2007
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From: Flagstaff, Arizona
Well I filled up with B20 today......very impressed! It took less then 5 minutes for it to get through the lines, and I noticed right away how quiet the motor got. After about 20 more minutes of driving, it was even quieter! You would never know my truck is chipped with straight exhaust now! haha It was about .10 cents a gallon more then regular Diesel at the pump, I will probably do this every few months now, just to keep everything lubed up, and cleaned out 
More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 577
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From: Cumming, Iowa
Travis if your wallet can stand it keep using the B-20 your injctors & pump will love you. The 20 will more than offset the lubricity loss of the ULSD.
Been brewing B-100 for about two years running it in the M/H for that long went to the P/U last spring and it loved it had to back way down this winter, you can really tell on straight dino it got loud. Cant wait for it to get warmer here so I can start brewing again.....
Been brewing B-100 for about two years running it in the M/H for that long went to the P/U last spring and it loved it had to back way down this winter, you can really tell on straight dino it got loud. Cant wait for it to get warmer here so I can start brewing again.....
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Lead Driver
Joined: May 2007
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From: Flagstaff, Arizona
my city doesn't even have Bio at all though......closest place is 50 miles away. I commute there all the time for work, but my commuter is a Mustang, muuuuuch easier on the wallet 
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Hartford, WI
Originally Posted by IABill
The 20 will more than offset the lubricity loss of the ULSD.